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Thread: Vbearings and Ply

  1. #1
    Gold Member spalm's Avatar
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    Vbearings and Ply

    Well I am starting the build of my machine #3. I have always been intrigued with V-bearings, so I bought a couple of sets and plan to give them a go. I will give ply/MDF one more try. I am itching to mill aluminum, so am hoping that this machine will give me the strength to do it.

    I kind of started this log before, but it digressed into epoxy and suchnot. This project will probably take a little while as I want to test and change as it goes along. I have been thinking about it for months now, and I have decided on a 24” x 40” with about 4” of Z.

    I am going to try to get rid of the support of the gantry under the bed. This means that the gantry will have to be stiff. It will probably take a couple of tries to get it acceptable. It will be stiffer than the drawing suggests. This also means running the X leadscrew on the side. This in turn may lead to dual leadscrews, which will be a new adventure for me.

    Comments always welcome,
    Steve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Vbearings and Ply-view1.jpg   Vbearings and Ply-view2.jpg  


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    Gold Member spalm's Avatar
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    I built the Y beam and test fitted it with a piece of scrap for the Z carriage. It is really stiff yet slides with ease. All 4 bearings have eccentrics installed for adjustment.

    I used some old pieces for the internal support web, just to add some memories to the evolution of this build.

    There are holes drilled though for threaded rod to attach to the gantry walls. I also plan to add dowels after final placement.

    Steve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Vbearings and Ply-ybox1.jpg   Vbearings and Ply-ybox2.jpg   Vbearings and Ply-ybox3.jpg  


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    So, why do you need dual scews for the x-axis.....go down the center and save yourself some headaches...


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    steve, where did you get the bearings, and slides? how much? i built my cnc using the rollers for sliding screen doors. it has very little slop, but your rollers look better made. thanks for the help. toby....


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    Registered Rance's Avatar
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    Viper, The pivot point of any axis is the lead screw by which that axis is driven, so if you're only gonna have one, then by having it closer to your router bit should give you better accuracy. Interesting diversion Steve, I like it.


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    Gold Member spalm's Avatar
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    Tobytorkin, I bought the bearings from the Zone’s own imserv at
    http://www.cadcamcadcam.com but they are really from SuperiorBearing.

    They are not the cheapest way to go, but I am really impressed with them. They are built for taking this kind of abuse. There is an eccentric collar that slips into the bearing and then a 1/4” bolt passes through this collar for mounting. As you twist the collar you can change the bearing pressure against the rail. I can not think of an easier adjustment scheme.

    The X axis to me is the long axis. I think Viper is referring to the X while Rance is referring to the Y. (?)

    Viper, I hear ya. I could just float the bed in the air and send a cross beam under the gantry to get to a center leadscrew mount ala JGRO. Since I am kind of playing here, I guess I want to try to push it and get rid of that box. My plan is to try the short gantry first and see what kind of racking I get, and then make a decision on going under the bed, adding a second leadscrew, or leaving it as is (preferred).

    Rance, I hope I can take advantage of the space under the Y beam for it’s leadscrew since the rail and bearing already hang down about 2”. I think this is a good mechanical connection to the router as well.

    The Y rails are 3/4” and the X rails are 2” angle iron.

    Steve


  • #7
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spalm
    Well I am starting the build of my machine #3.
    Did you finish #2?
    Gerry

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  • #8
    Gold Member spalm's Avatar
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    (I hope you are not talking baby potty talk to me )

    Hmmm…. Finish? It runs and cuts well, just looks kind of crude. Rather than prettying it up, I wanted to try this. I still get to steal a few parts from #2.

    Attached pics from #2.

    BTW, have you finished yours?

    Steve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Vbearings and Ply-xrailattachment.jpg   Vbearings and Ply-router2.jpg  


  • #9
    Gold Member spalm's Avatar
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    Started making the X axis. Got the MDF beams cut and holes marked for support for the angle iron. Yea for sawsall, it cut the 2” angle like butter.

    Made a test piece out of scrap to prove the hole locations for the bearings. I was really disappointed at first. I am cheating and using skate bearings on the bottom of the angle. When I first ran the assembly back and forth, it wanted to tilt in at the middle and then tilt out at the edges of the rail. I just went back into the shop to take pics to show you the problem, but I seemed to be able to fix it by running it back and forth a bunch of times and by loosening the bearing pressure a bit. Not sure if it will be a future problem or not.

    What is angle iron coated with? I constantly get black dust every time I touch it. I guess the bearings are wearing it down. Is it some kind of cheap paint or maybe anodized? Can I paint over it without completely removing it?

    Steve
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Vbearings and Ply-xbearingtest1.jpg   Vbearings and Ply-xbearingtest2.jpg  


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    That coating is from the manufacturing process. It is a slag type (black) oxide from the metal being hot rolled or formed. Unless you grind it off it will continue to flake off. If you leave it on you might have to roll those bearings over it a million times or so to wear it down.
    If it's not nailed down, it's mine.
    If I can pry it loose, it's not nailed down.


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    Registered Rance's Avatar
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    Yep, I was referring to the 'Y' axis.

    Steve, one thing to keep in mind is that the taller angle you use, the less stable it will be. Have you considered going down to maybe 1" or less? Actually, you still need the 2" side to bolt it to the table so do they make 'L' iron (2"x1")?


  • #12
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spalm

    BTW, have you finished yours?

    Steve
    I wasn't sure you had actually finished it.

    I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Another coat of paint on the gantry parts tonight, and I'll start final assembling next week.
    Gerry

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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