Well Here I Go (My JGRO)

[Fodder1]

Hello every one. Like many of you this site has fired my imagination, so i decided to build one. after lot of reading then a lot more reading and then sitting down and actually thinking about what i could do with this great toy (sorry anything that i buld is a toy). once i had convinced my self i went about convincing 'the one that must obeyed'.

What actualy surprised me was that is wasn't that hard! she actualy liked the idea. whoo hooo!

Ok so i am away. cleaned out the garage and printed out the plans.

First problem (little) was that the plans are in iches and i use MM, (as i live in Austalia) surf the web and find a conversion site and i am away, this means that the first one is not going to be that acurate. But in all the reading i have done on this site i believe that Joe shevy had the right idea. Build the first one and get that to cut parts for the second one. So I am not that worried. But i think i would like to make the cutting area a bit bigger. (later)

Now leading on from that i went down to Bunnings (Aust ver of home depo) and tried to get the tap for the holes that need screws in them.
Oh my good was that hard. 2hrs in that place (which is not hard, it seems to suck time) and i am no clearer on what size it is in metric.

So can somebody please tell me what size metric taps to use for the adjustment blocks and motor mounts. Also the bolt sizes please.

Second Problem (related to the first)
While i was there (bunnings) the guy asked me what i wanted to tap into. MDF was the answer. he then said that it was impossiable to tap into MDF in that way. Now i have seen plenty of machines in this forum do that. what is the deal? he says you need a special Tap. Do I, or can i use a standard metal tap?

Well that is all for now, i have currently finnished the end plates and the bottom level of cutting area. Today i am going to do the top cutting area and the gantry. might get to theadjusting blocks, might not.

I have been taking Pictures etc will post them if you want.

Thanks for your support.
Chris

[mrbaseball]

Yes, definately post photos, I would love to see your progress it is amazing to see so many variations of the plans. kep it coming!!

[Rance]

Chris,

Glad you easily convinced the Mudder of the benefits of building.

Although I've never tapped mdf, I would guess a coarse thread would be better than fine. Just do the conversion to metric and get the closest size (rounding up, not down). You may be referring to hearing about a 'roll tap' being used on mdf. Re. [then said that it was impossiable to tap into MDF in that way], I just love it when someone says that. It makes me want to do it just that much more (and most of the time I succeed).

Pics? YES, please post as you go, with details. It keeps us lurkers who are still in design stage going. I wish you well in your progress.

Rance

[ger21]

Is a roll tap the same as a thread forming tap? I believe so, and that's the preferred type to use I think. Just be sure to use CA glue on the threads after tapping to give it srtength.

[Fodder1]

Hi every one,

Just a quick reply. i have finnished the upper deck yesterday. i hoped to do more but 'the one that must be obayed' kiddnapped me to drive her around. Dammit i let her know that she was wasting my valuable building time.

To all thanks for your replys. I have no idea what a roll tap is or the differeance between fine and course thread. Anyone in Aust, could tell me where to go (be Nice ) & where to get these things?

While at bunnings the guy did suggest that i use inserts. (little metal things that screw them selves in to a hole and they have a 6mm thread in them.) i noticed that some people use them in there z axsis (up and down) to allow for removal. but at $3 for 4 of them, it will get quite expensive if i use them on the whole machine.

As for the pics, i have them and some of my other project (5'X2'X3' salt water fishtank) in the digital camera. just have to bring down the file size etc and load them up to this site or my own. hopefully tonight. but i have to go and play with my RC CEN monster truck (another hobby) this arvo with my brother. which usually includes drinking. Whoo Hooo

thanks again for all the replys.

CHRIS

PS what do you think of a dedicated thread for the modification of the JGRO design. just the changes and how they did them?

[ger21]

Using threaded inserts in MDF can be difficult, because it splits very easily. Try the tap method first, I think it will be easier.

[phillby]

Hi,
I also live in Aust Sydney, I have basically just finished building a Jgro router.

A few comments.
Most of the bolts and setscrews in the Build are 1/4" Bunnies have a vast range of 1/4" bolts which are mutch cheaper than metric as they are in bulk. For the smaller screws I used 4mm. !/4" taps are availabme at Bunnies. The 4mm may have to be purchased elsewhere. Don't worry about the comment of not tapping MDF just do it.
I do recommend that the adjusting blocks be made of HDPE (plasticy stuff) and that as Gerry says tap the threads in MDF coat it in CA Glue (Superglue cheap stuff is OK) let it dry, then run the tap through again.
Although metric is easier due to all the different sizes it is better to work in Inches as the plan is in inches (you already know that) Dual measuring equipment is easy to find. Many tape measures show both Metric and imperial measurements as do many steel rulers.
To malke the end product work in Metric, a metric lead screw should be used. I used 8mm allthread as it has a pitch of 1.25mm.

I hope these comments help.

Brian

[Fodder1]

Hello all,

Thank you Brian for clearing that up. I will drop into Bunnings this week and pick up some 1/4" bolts and a Tap. Thanks Gerry, you just comfirmed what i saw while looking at the inserts. i was thinking "i bet these are not going to go in straight."
Also Brian, could you tell me where you get the 'HDPE (plasticy stuff)' from. it looks the same as the chopping boards, but thicker?

As for the pictures, i have got them realy........ its just that 530 am start and and a 6pm finish (plus travel home 1hr) so 7pm before i get home makes for a tired Chris. this means that little work gets done on the computer. As much as i can send email from work they get a little upset when i start croping images.

CH

[Rance]

Chris,

Yes, the plastic stuff is (mostly) the same as cutting board. Cutting boards can be had for cheap too. Ebay is sometimes a cost-effective alternative. Similar to HDPE is Delrin or UHMW.

On the 1/4" hardware, 1/4-20 would be somewhat coarse (less threads per inch), finer 1/4" hardware is (from memory) 1/4-32 which you don't want. If you have trouble making them goin straight, then just drilling a hole and using T-Nuts might be better for you.

[phillby]

I used the yellow pages and looked up perspex and plastic sheeting.

The place was in Rydalmere City West Plastics 19-21 Antoine St.

I used 1/4 20 Whitworth setscrews and bolts.

Brian

[Fodder1]

Hi every one, thanks for the relpys. I have been making process and using what you have told me. It has taken a bit long than i would have liked. Firstly my Pure Bread Boxer (the site manager) had a blood clot (yes it happends to dogs) and he culdnt walk, he is getting better now. He is able to use his back leg again, just. slowly, slowly onthat front. that was one weekend gone (the only time i have to work on this) and this weekend just gone i had to drive 4hours to go and see the parents.

So i prommised pictures.....

the workshop and the workbench


the site manager menchioned above and one must have music.


decided to get the de-structions printed and bound. best thin i ever did. the end plates half done.


Ok thats the end plates and no matter how carfull you are ........

[Fodder1]

This is the bottom deck finnished, dont think i have any picuters of the proccess. And all of the parts cut for the top deck.

I have finished the top deck but have not taken a picture yet. slack i know but, well, stiff.