Hi Don, its just an optical illusion. The brand new nuts are very shiny and it is reflection the light oddly.
Here are a couple more pics of the gantry.
Does anyone know there is a dxf available for the K2 mounting plate. The one I have has a total of 8 holes, 4 on either side of the mount plate. I searched K2 site but did not see anything.
I have a question I hope someone can help me with.
I want to drill the holes in my Y-axis adaptor plate with my current machine. I was thinking of using a 1/4" drill bit but I'm not sure if I should just mark the the holes in the Ali and finish the job on a drill press or better yet let the machine go all the way through the ~.75 Ali.
If I can do the job on the machine what settings should I be drilling at? I purchased a high quality split-point drill bit for metal. I'm using a Porter Cable 690 router with a CNC4PC speed controller.
Should I be using any lub while drilling etc...
Thanks for the help.
However, I have had very good success profile routing the holes with an aluminum end mill that was about 20-50% smaller than the hole diameter. The clearance makes it much easier for the chips to escape. With my previous flimsy CNC machine it needed really light cuts and slow feed rate but a 3/16 or 1/4" hole took only a few seconds with an 1/8" bit. The holes were usually much cleaner and accurate than what can be a achieved on a normal drill press.
I might have a 1/8 endmill for Ali I will have to check. What DOC whould be recommented .05"?
Here are some more pictures, the first 2 are of the Z-Axis, minus router mounting plate.
Next is the X-Axis motor mount.
Finally the Y-axis where the adaptor plate needs mounting and it seems with the current configuration I'm a little short on the motor shaft reaching the Zero Backlash coupler. I could remove the square motor mount and attach the motor directly to the upright but I would loose some Y-axis travel that way.
I'm still searching for a dxf or pdf for the K2 mount...
I drill all my holes in aluminum with a 1/8" drill bit at 5000 rpm. I use peck drilling at about .05"/ peck.
Larger holes are usually enlarged on a drill press, using the 1/8" hole as a pilot/locator hole.
If it's a pocket for a bearing, I'll use drill the 1/8" hole, then go back and enlarge with a 1/4" drill bit, then use a 1/4" router bit and "pocket from the center outward. The clearance from the drilled holes eliminates plunging with a router bit or endmill.
I always use 6061-T6 or cast plate, no coolant or lubricant, and haven't had any gumming issues.
Mach3 2010 Screenset
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Thanks Gerry, I'm just drilling holes for the adaptor plates however there are quite a few holes in the Y-axis plate. I have a cheapo drill press but it should do. My CNC4PC speed controller will show down the router but it is not closed loop like the SP which makes the speed fluctuate under load. I can’t say if I have a proper end mill for Ali so the spotting of the holes was my original idea.
Well I drilled my adaptor plate, it turned out quite well. I used Gerry method or just spotting with a 1/8 bit and finishing with the drill press. Only one little issue, the holes are offset .125" to the leff and bottom as I forgot to change the bit size in the X-Y auto zero routine. Pictures later.
I searched all over for a dxf/pdf hell I would have used a jpg if it had dims, for the bolt pattern used on the K2 router mount (the 8 hole version). Nothing found expect for quite a few others looking for the same thing. I did one myself using the mount I purchased and the 4 bolt pattern used on the CNCRP Z-axis plate.
I'm not going to warranty the accuracy so use at your own risk.
If, for example, you need to mill a 1/4" hole, a good way would be to "helix" in with a smaller diameter endmill, and then like Gerry says, you can go center-out to complete the hole. VCarve doesn't have an option to do this per-se, but I believe you can fool it to do so, by using the offset pocket option, and setting a high ramp value. Seems to work in simulation at least.
Spotting the holes with a 1/8" bit worked well in this case. I was unsure if my cheapo C-tire drill press would drill straight but it did. I have to remember to check the bit size when doing the auto Z routine on the X-Y axis on the router mounting plate. I'm sure with the proper tooling and a SP I will be able to pocket Ali on the new machine. I wonder when version 3 of the SP is coming out... It is on my list but I have been waiting for this machine build to be almost complete.
I'm just about ready to remove the X/Y lead screw and electronics off the old machine and install them on this one. I need to mount the home switches yet. I hope I have not forgotten to fabricate any parts before I scavage the existing machine. The K2 mount is still on the existing machine for the time being...