Another First Router

[ger21]

Wer'e really busy at work right now, and I'll barely have time to CNC the template.

[Mr.Chips]

That's understandable. Being busy at work is a good thing.

Thanks
Hager

[pyrojon]

Any updates on this? I'm particularly interested in how you are driving the X and Y axes.

Thanks
Jon

[ger21]

No updates yet, although I've got the gantry uprights mostly assembled. X axis will have dual 1/2-8 2 start acme, same screw on Y axis. 253 oz-in PacSci steppers, 3 axis + single axis Xylotex (2-X, 1-Y, 1-Z)

I doubt it will be as fast as I'd like, but that's all the budget allowed. I may upgrade to Geckos and a higher voltage power supply down the road.

[ynneb]

That is an amazing effort Gerry.
It looks like you are taking no shortcuts.
It looks more like a wing structure than a cnc router. Will it be dual purpose?
I've seen a flying lawn mower b4, but never a flying router.

[pyrojon]

So it looks like your x-axis screws will be situated below and to the side of your x-axis tubes?

Will the Y-axis have any connection to the rest of the machine besides these screws? Is there any concern for the Y-Axis "tipping" since it's essentially just riding on top of the X-Axis tubes?

I'm concidering a similar design and I am just trolling for some pointers.


Thanks
Jon

[ger21]

The Gantry will attach to the rails the same way as the Z-axis. 1/4" 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" aluminum angle, with rollerblade bearings. The gantry beam shown in the pictures will be between the uprights, and threaded rods will run under the table pulling the bearings tightly against the tubing. The bearings will be about 12" apart, at 45° angles. It won't be able to tip at all. The threaded rod underneath was the reason for the stiff torsion box table. The entire table is suspended between the 2 end panels, and spans 59". And it appears it will have no flex at all.

The leadscrews will be under the tubing, actually more under the edges of the table. The sides of the gantry extend below the tubing and will have blocks that go under the table a few inches to mount the nuts to. The threaded rod will go through those blocks as well.

[ger21]

That is an amazing effort Gerry.
It looks like you are taking no shortcuts.

There are plenty of shortcuts due to time and budget constraints. Like most of the people here, I already have plans for a bigger, faster machine. Still made out of wood. But much lighter, and even stronger. And of course, much more expensive. Already have some THK an IKO rails for it.

[Chunky]

I love the looks of that thang! I just love torsion boxes. I even came up with a way of building them. Don't know if anyone else does it that way (not sure they should ). I like the choice of routers too. I recently chnged my mind from laminate trimmer to the 690. I have a 7518 in my router table but it's just too heavy. I think the suggestion for using the deadspace for suction was a great idea. You could even have little blast gates for zoning it off. Great idea about leaving the Forstner holes unfinished. Not only does away with prying the disc out but eliminates the tear-out too. Just a lot of good thinking here. Love it. Oh yeah, are you using dual motors for torque or symmetry?

[ger21]

The 690 is out, I have a brand new variable speed 892 sitting in its case. Dual motors are for more speed (torque).

[Chunky]

ger21]The 690 is out, I have a brand new variable speed 892 sitting in its case. Dual motors are for more speed (torque).

Yeah, like I say... you probably won't like that little 690

[ger21]

I do have a 7518, just in case.