I dont get it, I cant not see how anything rolls, could you please clarify?
colin
Decided to finish my CNC machine this summer.
Size will be 8x4. Servos and control box I bought from Anoel. I hope to be making chips by the end of July.
This first pic is a cross section of the possible y-axis. The roller bearings are in purple.
Main frame is blue
Guide frame is in red
and supports in black
I didn't draw the face plate which will hold the router mount this is attached between the two black angle pieces.
X-Axis is the same style only the bottom red and black pieces won't be there. Should have a more complete drawing this weekend.
I would like to take this time to say thank you to everyone. I've been reading posts for the last 2 years on this site and the community is one of the better ones on the net.
-Matt
I dont get it, I cant not see how anything rolls, could you please clarify?
colin
It looks to me like the pink parts are skate bearings which are secured by the green bolts, they roll on the red angle plate.
The purple rectangles are skate bearings. And the green are bolts, like Splint mentioned. I'll be working on it this weekend so hopefully I will have some real pictures to post.
I'm going to pick up new x axis framing today.
Finally an update--
I scrapped the original design and went with this one using roller bearings. I have a question if I eliminated the lower guide bearings (red) for the yaxis. For those of you with similar designs are you having any problems with the router wanting to lift off the rails?
Let me also add that the wood base is just a support for right now, once the machine is about half finished the base will be built with aluminum.
Thanks, should have another update next week.
I decided to work on the drawings during the winter here's a preview of them so far:
Ok, making an update. As you can see I went back to my original design with the angle aluminum for the gantry ends.
The problem with this design is that the gantry won't slide smoothly the bearings don't properly align with the rails and when pushed down the rail cause the gantry to either grind down into the rail or raise up off it. I fixed this with a second set of inside bearings and a new problem arose.
The new problem is when the gantry is pushed from one side there is "backlash" in the opposite end and it lags slightly.
Another issue is the angle steel that the bearings run on tends to flex a little when I do this as well. It is entirely possible that the steel angle is flexing because it is only bolted on the two ends for now. But I tested a piece by hand and even over a one foot range it still flexes. Currently it's 2" x 2" x .125" I might switch that out for thicker 1/4" angle.
After looking at some machines on here I realized I made a HUGE mistake in design. The large machines tend to use manufactured linear rails of some type while the smaller machines use a mixture of DIY/Manufactured bearings. I am thinking that the bigger things go the tighter tolerances you have to get.
My next step from here is I am going to machine some V bearings and try those on the two inch angle. If that works I'll buy some stainless and machine V bearings for all my bearings and do something similar to shopbot design. My concern though is after all that work, the backlash problem from above will surface again. But this will eliminate the question I had earlier about gantry lift.
Shopbot seems to over come this problem of backlash from a wide gantry design, so I may end up making my gantry supports 6" wider (the current alu angle you see in the pictures is about a foot wide, you can also see in the last autocad pic the entire design.)
More pics coming this weekend.
-Matt
The ShopBot is driven from both sides, so you can't get the skewing of the gantry you're seeing. My machine is the same way, and a lot of others are noticing it too. Bottom line seems to be that you must drive the gantry from both sides to prevent this. I'm pretty sure even a very solid and heavy steel gantry would do the same thing to some extent, unless the bearings are spaced very far apart, maybe 2 feet or so, with good linear bearings.Originally Posted by CuttersCov
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Gerry,
Does shopbot have a motor on each side? I thought issues with phase difference were problems with that?
Do you think the same problem would happen with linear pillow block style bearings? (problem is trying to find some 10 feet long)
-Matt
Yes, they have a motor on each side, and yes, I think it will happen with "real" linear bearings. Although with linear bearings, if it does it it will possibly bind up.
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Hello,
what was wrong with the design from Post #5? Looks quite good to me...
k
Keyne,
The problem with that design was that I couldn't ever get the bearings to set straight on the rail. The lock washers cause the bearings to get cocked when the nuts were tightened down. I also designed the gear rack to be on the outside so there won't be any way to stop the gantry from lifting off.
Gerry,
Your gantry skews as well?
Adding another motor to the opposite side is out of the question. I don't want the added headache/cost/etc. (or at least for the moment let me dream that is won't come to that)
I have some pillow blocks with roughly 4 feet of linear rail that I'm going to try out tomorrow. I would think if the gantry does this on only a 1 foot section, vising the rail down and the blocks to the gantry will be able to tell me.
If that doesn't work next thing will be to fire off some emails to people with large machines and see how they eliminate it. Or I wonder if it's possible to "dial" it out on software side.
-Matt