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Old 04-14-2011, 09:12 AM
 
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Water table--paint inside?

Should I paint the inside of my water table? I'm wondering if the paint will just eventually flake off from being immersed in water and cutting garbage.
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:52 PM
 
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I painted the iside of my water table. Used good quality paint - it all peeled off so don't bother.
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:27 AM
 
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I used a high quality marine 2-part epoxy primer & paint. It is looking good. If it's meant to stay on the bottom of a ship at sea, it should stay on the table.

Good prep, and prime is key.

Amercoat 302H primer, 235 seal coat, 229T top coat

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Old 04-15-2011, 07:03 PM
 
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Thanks guys. I'm not using good quality paint (just Rustoleum), so I'll rely on the rust-preventative properties of my water to keep it all happy.
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Old 04-15-2011, 08:17 PM
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Why not use bed liner material? You can get it at Wal-Mart.

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Old 04-15-2011, 09:10 PM
 
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I think this has been discussed before and I'm thinking the general consensus was that POR-15 is the way to go.


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Old 04-16-2011, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mxtras View Post
Why not use bed liner material? You can get it at Wal-Mart.

Scott
Probably the way to go.

I put this kit in the "heavy crumb" on a tumbler. It set up hard and is waterproof. You would not want to cut with the table dry though, with any coating option I think. Keep that in mind.

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Old 04-22-2011, 01:30 AM
 
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i used monstaliner to paint/seal my last CNC water table and it worked well. i applied an mild texture so its not to hard to clean.
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:50 PM
 
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Originally Posted by mxtras View Post
Why not use bed liner material? You can get it at Wal-Mart.

Scott
I thought about using the bed liner material on the actual steel tubing of the machine, never thought about using it on the watertable. Just because it gets beat up after awhile with plate. On my next watertable build which will be within the next few months I have decided to go with epoxy/fiberglass. I will construct a mold out of 3/4" mdf basically the same shape as the watertable. Then spray your mold release or mold wax on the mdf then start laying glass and epoxy. When it dries pop it out put your slate members down and done. This way I will not have to worry about a "coating" to save it from rust..... I have an alum. watertable now but ive noticed that the rust from steel pieces sitting at the bottom is eating away at the alum. pretty soon it will eat all the way through. I have already made several patches but it is time to go with glass and epoxy watertable. Nothing more resistant to water than a boat haul..
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:51 PM
 
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Thanks for the ideas, everyone!

I ended up using a POR-15 knockoff for the inside, since I already had it. The rest is just Rust-oleum for easy touchups when I add stuff to it later.

Now if only my linear rails would ship already, I could finish this thing!
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Dustin407 View Post
I thought about using the bed liner material on the actual steel tubing of the machine, never thought about using it on the watertable. Just because it gets beat up after awhile with plate. On my next watertable build which will be within the next few months I have decided to go with epoxy/fiberglass. I will construct a mold out of 3/4" mdf basically the same shape as the watertable. Then spray your mold release or mold wax on the mdf then start laying glass and epoxy. When it dries pop it out put your slate members down and done. This way I will not have to worry about a "coating" to save it from rust..... I have an alum. watertable now but ive noticed that the rust from steel pieces sitting at the bottom is eating away at the alum. pretty soon it will eat all the way through. I have already made several patches but it is time to go with glass and epoxy watertable. Nothing more resistant to water than a boat haul..

I cannot imagine fiberglass working for a water tray. Do you cut only gauge material? We cut between 1/4" and 4" plate. When using oxy, just the preheat would probably weaken it. The cone on a 60amp nozzle can reach pretty far too. I suppose if it was really deep it might work. What if a part falls through? Do you have a screen in place? I was hoping to put a screen under the slats but it would not last long I think. Without water, I have cut a 4" slat in half once, it would bite a screen too. Did I miss something? I would like to be able to put some sort of sealer or protector on but am thinking of skipping it as plain ol bill mentioned.

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Old 04-27-2011, 07:52 PM
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Regarding a holding tank, does anybody have an access hole on their tank? Is it needed? I am wondering if it woud have a benifit or just pose another leak point. I will put 10psi of pressure on this tank to force the water out and up into the tray via two 2.5" hoses/ball valves.

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