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#1
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I've been lurking these forums for quite some time, and really enjoy the atmosphere and content here, so I decided to become a member and start contributing... but first I have to ask for help. I have just been hired by a local glass company that fab's glass shower enclosures and doors to operate the waterjet using a (awful) software called NC Studio that they have just purchased, interestingly enough there isn't a single person there who can even turn it on... Now I have a decent amount of experience on CNC mill and after fiddling got the machine up and running and cutting. But on to my question, I will mainly be cutting holes and notches from the edge. When I pierce the 3/8 glass i have a problem with chipping or cracking as well as coming from the outside edge since it starts on the corner, so my question is in this software can I setup a lead in on edge cuts? also i attempted to start cutting the holes from the center and moving to the outside and proceeding to go around the diameter, but the software doesn't allow me to designate where the cut starts so it dose the reverse. Also any tips, or pointers for waterjet in general especially cutting glass would be immensely appreciated since i'm brand new to this process. Or any documentation pertaining to NC Studio., that might be in English... haha Sorry for being so long winded and drawn out in my first post but thank you all for any possible help you might give me! |
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#2
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Not familiar with glass or NC studio, but use a waterjet alot at work. We have a Flow and I know that with the software we have, we an adjust the lead in and lead out cuts. Specifying a longer lead cut would help, if the lead is at a 90 degree angle to you cut path. Basically anyything you can do to get the pierce away from the part when it happens. Move the pierce from the corner of the part to an edge for more support. It really suprises me that you can't specify this. Also, we have the ability to select what type of material we are cutting in the software. I ssume that you can do the same. If so, make sure you have the correct one selected, as this will make a big differrence. Perhaps with a bit more info, I could help more? Just not that familiar with cutting glass as I said before. Willing to try if I can be of assistance though. Dan
__________________ Check out what I am working on at www.routerbitz.com! |
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#3
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| The software is awful, its a Chinese software that was originally designed for cnc routers. The software is not user friendly at all and is hard to understand the poor attempt at english explanations for any settings. There is no lead in settings that i can find. Right now I have cut a piece of lexan that i screwed down to the table and joging from a 0,0 g54 while cutting and made a square to locate parts against. All the work we do are panels so I import the DXF drawing of the panel putting the corner as g54, but if i'm cutting a notch for a hinge, it will start right at the edge, and chip the glass because i cant choose to lead in =/ I think we might have to change softwares... |
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#4
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Sir, Do you write the program for your machine yourself? If so you can make your own leadin or leadout. That would give you a chance to tryout your ideas and see if they work. You might do so on a piece of scrap to perfect the approach you want. Regards, Jack C. |
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#5
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| I am able to write my own code, but as of now the NC studio software writes the code for me, I am not familiar though with the coding used to turn on the stream and abrasive... Dose anyone have a recommendation on another software to use, to control the machine that will allow me to generate toolpaths from a DXF drawing, but allow me to chain them together as well as choose a start point and set lead ins, preferably with a free trial that we can try out on the machine? Or suggestions on how to do so in the NC studio software? Thanks so much for your help everyone! |
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#6
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Mike |
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#8
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| You might want to invest in something waterjet specific. I run an OMAX machine and the software has all sorts of setting for specific materials that we're cutting. Priming the abrasive line is a good idea, but I've never broken or chipped glass when starting from outside the part. You might be cutting too fast, try slowing it down some. |
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