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#13
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#14
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| yeah ger that was good link - that's how i'd want a cnc wood lathe. you can turn wood on a metal lathe. its worked for me with a lot of top rake and rounded nose, and if you were serious about it I'm sure there a ways to bring the right tooling to bear. however, cutting wood in a metal lathe its not really a good idea - woodworking and metal working machines are not compatible because of dust. The machine is full of metal to metal bearing surfaces that require a film a oil. the dust dries out the oil which is a bad thing. Maybe if the lathe was a real beater that you could view as sacrificial, but I'd be concerned that longer term steady use would wreck the machine |
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#15
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__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#16
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| I don't know much about lathe work but couldn't the shapes in question be cut using a profile knife attached to a cross slide which is then moved in against the work in very small increments (possibly even with a pecking motion) via the stepper motor? It might help prevent cross grain tearing if you put a fine serration on the cutting edge. I'm assuming that final smoothness of the piece is achieved with abrasives so if the serrations are small enough they will sand out easily. Another idea would be to use two knives, one with coarse serrations for a rough cut and another with the smooth profile for the finish cut. They could both be mounted on a cutter head attached to the cross slide and rotated into and out of position via a stepper controlled by the cnc software. Companies that make knives for shapers and moulders can make very precise profiles from drawings or samples. I think I paid about $40. per inch the last time I had some moulder knives made up. Since the knives aren't actually spinning it shouldn't be too difficult to fabricate a cutter head that only has to rotate through a few degrees. Using profile knives you would only need a cross feed mechanism which would be pretty easy to adapt to a stock wood lathe. Not having to precisely move a tool up and down the lathe bed seems like a significant simplification. Just a thought. |
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#17
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| Here are some sites on cc lathes for wood: http://www.hapfo.co.uk/tech/vidpage.htm http://www.jjsmith.co.uk/stock/websi...256FF1003C94F3 THe hapfo one is a sweet lathe and fast. Wish I had the money to buy it or copy it. Donny www.whiterivermfg.com |
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#18
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| Ger, thanks for the Liberty site and thanks to everyone else who posted sites and suggestions. Also got a reply from the guitar maker who had the Liberty lathe pictured on his site. Said he wasn't a dealer but also gave me a TN number. No surprise the same guy you gave me Ger, different town and # though. Turned out to be the guys home number. I just got off the phone with his wife, very nice lady. Coincidently, he's less than 100 miles from me, I'm in north Alabama. Probably take a little trip after talking to him and check it out up close and personal. Maybe it's the right machine at the right price, maybe not, we'll see. Get some ideas anyway.. I appreciate everyones inputs.. very helpful, all of you.... I'll keep you posted.. thanks, DH |
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#20
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| whiteriver, That video on http://www.hapfo.co.uk/tech/vidpage.htm (Cutting the ball,on the lathe) is cool! |
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#22
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#23
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#24
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Hi Im in the same boat as you, looking for a cnc wood retro fit kit, I have a donor +50inch metal lathe that Im probly going to do some McGyvering on. A then use a 4 axis cnc milling machine retro kit. Using X,Y like a normal cnc lathe then Z will need to be fab-d up to hold a router, and the 4th axis run through the tail stock. Free the headstock up totally. so far thats the plan Im only shooting for 6-10"x72"ish working area for ornamental turning mostly. Jason |
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