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Thread: CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build

  1. #61
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    Joe,

    Thanks, I hope the work table idea pans out but I have to admit that getting the support rod holes drilled accurately enough takes some effort. I was trying for at least "within ball peen hammer range" accuracy. The rails have to be parallel in all directions of course and I knew from the start that it would be difficult to achieve with a mounting scheme like this.

    Ahren,

    Be my guest. Sometimes I do stuff like this "for effect" or for the entertainment value. I think it could have supported two more blocks. Not so sure how long the ABEC7 bearings would last with that kind of weight on them full time though.

    The tubes have a small bow in the middle from the weight but that is all I could see happening. Your carriages are the least problem I expected to have. Do you have a recommended procedure for adjusting the bearing fit to the rails? For this test I made them just a little loose (but not sloppy loose).

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  2. #62
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    CarveOne,

    It looks like you have a good handle on the bearing adjustment, but here's a quick trick. Since you have to loosen the bearing bolts in between each adjustment, it's good to get things close without the lock washer in the bearing bolt. Use a piece of masking tape in between the bearing and the rail, and go in small steps (1/8 turn or less) adjusting the nylon set screw -- it's a 1/4-20 screw, so an 1/8 turn is about 0.006" of adjustment. Once you have a smoothly rolling system, remove the tape, go another 1/8 turn on the set screw, and put the lock washer back in. This should get you a tiny bit of preload.

    Since you're running hot-rolled rails, you may want to wait on this procedure until you've run it back and forth a bunch to wear the rail to a more uniform thickness. I would actually recommend using your concrete blocks to do this. Each carriage is capable of supporting a minimum of 150 pounds, so this shouldn't cause any problems for the bearings.

    Best regards,

    Ahren
    www.cncrouterparts.com



  3. #63
    Registered Mick40's Avatar
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    Thanks for taking the time to share and NICE JOB

    Mick



  4. #64
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    Ahren,
    Thanks much, I'll try your suggestion after I start assembly of the gantry and risers. For initial construction purposes I don't plan to do anything but just make them roll freely.

    Mick40,
    Thank you! I hope this build is entertaining and worth watching. Maybe it will even work when it's finished.

    I made three of the bearing mount plates today and installed two of them. I did not bore the 1-1/8" bearing hole yet because I want the bearings on hand when I do that. The bearings should arrive by Wednesday or so.

    I was impressed by the fact that the two right angles make the bearing plate come out at 90 degrees to the rail without any "coaxing" with my 5 pound maul. Amazing. Simply amazing.....

    The two 1/4-20 x 3/4" bolts that stick out of the bearing plate will be trimmed flush or replaced with 1/2" bolts when I get some.

    When all of the X axis assembly stuff is completed I'll start working on the gantry risers. I would like them to look somewhat better than I showed it in the early CAD drawings so I'll be doing some doodling along those lines. Maybe some nice looking wood decoration or something.

    Thanks for watching everyone!

    CarveOne

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1269-jpg   CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1270-jpg   CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1271-jpg   CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1272-jpg  

    CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1273-jpg  
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  5. #65
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    well well wellllll...


    you have been busy,where have i been? i didnt notice your new build ,looks like youve got a really nice start so far ...carry on!

    "witty comment"


  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by .xXACEXx. View Post
    well well wellllll...


    you have been busy,where have i been? i didnt notice your new build ,looks like youve got a really nice start so far ...carry on!
    Well, I guess I slipped one past you when you weren't looking. There's not much happening in this forum lately so I am trying something a little different before I go broke along with the rest of the victims of the poor economy.

    I had planned to upgrade the "old" Solsylva build but in an act of sheer economic defiance I decided to build something bigger and faster using Gecko drives, steel, 5 start lead screws, and Ahren's linear carriages.

    Most of the work is being done on the weekends so far, but with warming weather this week I may be able to work on it a little during some evenings.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  7. #67
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    Last evening I finished cutting and grinding the radiused corners of the third bearing support and installed it on the second X axis rail. I'll try to get another piece of 3/8" x 4" steel through the local Fastenal store by the weekend to make the remaining three bearing plates. The bearings from VXB.com are due to arrive on Wednesday, maybe Thursday. At a minimum maybe I can install the bearing in three of the plates this weekend and assemble one of the lead screws.

    Next on the list is making the 1/4" aluminum stepper motor mounting plates.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  8. #68
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    This evening I spent some time cutting some 1/4" 6061-T65 plate stock into four stepper motor mounts. All of the four holes for the stepper motor and four holes for the 3/8" all-thread rod supports will be drilled first using the Grizzly Industrial digital readout's circular hole pattern function. Then I'll bore the center hole for the Nema 23 motor pattern. Note that the stepper motor hole pattern is rotated 45 degrees so that there is no potential for interference fit with the nuts on the 3/8" all-thread rods. Maybe it will also look kinda cool mounted that way.

    CarveOne

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1274-jpg  
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  9. #69
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    The bearings arrived today from VXB.com. These are R8Z 1/2" ID x 1-1/8" OD. I need eight of them but ordered 20 to have a full spare set and a few extras for some other yet unknown project.

    The 3/8" x 4" x 36" steel bar stock I ordered at the local Fastenal store will arrive sometime next week, so I can't make the remaining three bearing plates this weekend as I had hoped. I'll take some photos during the bearing hole milling operation for the first three bearing mounting plates this weekend.

    I can also finish the four stepper motor mounting plates and do other work on the work table as I still haven't added any stiffeners yet.

    CarveOne

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1275-jpg  
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  10. #70
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    I got an unexpected day off from work today so I went by Fastenal and picked up another 1" x 2" x 72" steel box tube for use on the gantry uprights and some extra 1/4-20 hardware.

    I'll spend this nice weather afternoon doing some of the CNC construction work I had planned for the upcoming cold and rainy weekend.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  11. #71
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    The results for the afternoon wook is shown below. I cleaned up the steel swarf on the milling machine and its floor area from the previous bearing mount work and then started making another mess with aluminum swarf. The four stepper motor mounting plates just need a larger center hole now. I'll bore those tomorrow.

    The small center hole is at 0.0 reference and is used to re-locate the plate in the vise when the digital readout is at zero reference. I use a piece of 1/2" diameter round steel that has been turned and tapered in the lathe as a spindle mounted pointer that can be used as an indicator for holes smaller than 1/2". Simple, cheap, and a good enough tool for one or two thousandths accuracy when just "close" is good enough. All of the other holes are drilled relative to the reference hole with a 0.0002" resolution readout using the circle bolt pattern program settings in the digital readout.

    When I bore the larger holes tomorrow I'll use an adjustable boring head and carbide cutter.

    CarveOne

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1276-jpg   CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1277-jpg   CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1278-jpg   CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1279-jpg  

    CarveOne's Work Table CNC Router Build-dscn1280-jpg  
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  12. #72
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    looks like more good progress carve ole' pal ,that read out is really handy huh?

    you know technology is a funny thing...

    at the first punch and die shop i worked at we had an assortment of digital readouts on the conventional mills to use, if we had several parts we put em on the cnc mills

    heres the funny part most of those conv. mills readouts had things like bolt circle and other trig functions but i never used em, except occasionally for halving my edge finder or some silly thing like that lol and i always got out my trig book to figure hole patterns ..instead of trying to learn how to use the DRO's trig. stuff even tho it would have prolly been easier than trig'n the circles in the first place...

    mind you i didnt hesitate to use the cnc mill to do some holes on say 5-10 parts(sitting down at a desk programing a machine) but some how sitting down to figure out the DRO stuff seemed like it would take too long lolol (and now wish i had spent more time figuring all the functions of those DRO's out)

    go figure ?? technology is strange ..but it boils down to the guy behind the machine who is some times the most odd "tool" in the shop

    (and yes..im talking bout me )

    "witty comment"


  13. #73
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    Like you, .xXACEXx. I'm also slow to accept some things technical. This DRO can do things like linear hole patterns, linear angular hole patterns, concave and converse radius milling, radiused corner milling, and sub datum hole drilling operations. But even if the manual was written using better Chinese/English translation I still wouldn't remember how to use it from one time to the next. Reading the instructions for this DRO makes my brain hurt, but the circle bolt pattern function is really nice to have. All I need is the one reference center mark. It remembers the reference and last position data when power is lost or turned off. If nothing is moved I can resume operations when the power returns or I come back the next day to continue working with it. It saves the data for around 30 days.

    This one does the coordinate calculations for each hole and then you just set the x and y axis back to 0.0/0.0 and drill the hole. I suppose most other DROs do the same but this one is all I have used.

    Center punch marks have a special magic about them in comparison to some of these complicated high tech toys don't they? The two most often used tools I have for the mill is the homemade centering tool shown in the photos and a cheap $5 "Y" shaped centering tool that finds the center of round stock.

    There are much better ones now but the price of this one has made it well worth getting it.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  14. #74
    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    Very nice, neat and organized built... Very good housekeeping and excellent description of each move u working on... Here is my ***** to you..i never give these stars normally

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  15. #75
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    Thanks very much Khalid! ***** are welcome indicators that I'm doing something right (or at least doing something entertaining )

    After thinking about it, some of those extra bearings I ordered will come in handy when I have advanced enough to build a rotary axis. It looks like you have been having much fun with it. Doing something like multiple parallel serpentine flutes on a tapered table leg should be no challenge for you now.

    Just thinking about doing it in software fries my brain.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  16. #76
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    After my post last evening I went back out to the work shop and decided to work on the X axis rails to see if I could make the top edge smoother. The bumpiness bothered me even though the bearings roll easily. I have a homemade aluminum sanding bar that is 12" long by 2" wide by 3/8" thick and is faced with a tough sanding cloth material that is made from cut-offs of the wide sanding belts used in wood working shops. It is 100 grit grade and is contact cemented onto the aluminum bar. I used it to sand the top edges to remove the factory mill scale layer down to the metal. Then I used a smaller piece of 80 grit sandpaper to do the same to the sides low enough down that the bearings ride against a smoother surface. Just a very little metal was removed on the top edge to remove some of the fine surface pitting but it is easy to see when it is leveled out. No metal was removed on the sides. I then polished it with a 180 grit foam sanding pad and wiped off the dust. I applied some dry lube spray and wiped it off lightly to remove any excess lube.

    The bluish/black mill scale is thicker than it appears and comes off as a very black dust. Each rail edge took about 20 minutes work. Only four more edges to go.

    The results were impressive. Removing most of the bumpy feeling made the whole system easier to adjust and much smoother in operation. At some future point when I have some good reason and the money to do it, this machine will definitely grow to 4' x 8' and will have cold rolled steel rails. Won't be anytime soon though.

    At a convenient time I will disassemble all of the X axis rail parts, clean and then spray them with Rustoleum hammer finish silver paint after taping off the sanded edges. I'll depend on dry lube to prevent any serious rusting of the bare edges.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  17. #77
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    As promised, I completed the 1-1/2" center holes in the stepper motor plates this morning. During the operations I needed another centering tool that would center on a 1/2" hole so I made a new one out of 5/8" steel round stock. I turned a step on it so that it fits into a 1/2" collet. The smaller one is 3/8".

    Machining tips:
    The cheap carbide cutter set and the Criterion boring head I have were given to me by an acquaintance and had not been used before I got them. The times I have used the boring I have had trouble with these cutters crumbling during cutting even when using spray lubricant. I broke the last two and ended up finding that a 1/2" two flute HSS end mill works better and leaves a much better finish on the hole wall. Just set the end mill so that one cutting edge is at a slight leading angle to the hole wall so that chips are pulled out at an angle. (I have even successfully used a straight reamer on the lathe as boring bar when nothing else I have on hand will do the job.)

    I also resorted to using 1" and 1-1/2" round nose end mills to drill the holes after the carbide boring cutters broke. My cheap Silver and Deming drill set drills are not very hard, or sharp, so I don't use them any more. The round nose end mills worked very well as they are much better quality. I used the 1/2" end mill in the boring head to take the holes out to 1.502" for some clearance. My stepper motors required that when I made plates for my Solsylva 25x37 build.

    There is one "action shot" below. The large round nose end mill really pulls out a mass of fresh chips.


    CarveOne

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    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  18. #78
    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    Carveone... That is something really awesome man... Very good pictures... Wow.. Now i am thinking of to make a machine to cut steel... You are very lucky you have approach to a steel cutting machine...

    Keep posting pictures, the more you post the more we become hungry

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  19. #79
    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    I voted you 5-stars but i don't know why its not appear!!!!!

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    Carveone... That is something really awesome man... Very good pictures... Wow.. Now i am thinking of to make a machine to cut steel... You are very lucky you have approach to a steel cutting machine...

    Keep posting pictures, the more you post the more we become hungry
    Thanks again Khalid. I have a 12x36 lathe for turning metals and a RF45 type box column milling machine. I hope my new cnc build will be able to cut aluminum reasonably well and is the reason I'll try to build a very stiff gantry system without being excessively heavy. We'll see how that goes when I finish the X axis work.

    The stepper motor plates in the photos are 6061-T65 aluminum. The centering tools I made are hot rolled steel.

    Today I will bore the bearing holes in the three bearing plates I've made which are hot rolled steel.
    This will be a little more effort than in the aluminum, partly because it is harder metal and partly because the hole needs to be a snug fit to the bearing for a light press fit. The Criterion boring head and end mill cutter will be used to do the finish cut to achieve the proper fit. If I go past the proper fit I will just have to figure out how to deal with it, or make a new plate.

    After finishing the bearing mount plates today I'll finish sanding the X axis rails on the bottom edges and sand both edges of the Y axis rail. If time permits I hope to tape off the edges of the X axis rails and spray paint them.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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