My New 24x24 V-Groove Router Design Log

[widgitmaster]

OK, so far I have the four new THK linear rails in house. After taking some measurements, I have spent a few hours in CAD trying to find the best way to apply them! The results are promising, and it looks like there will be a slight loss of X-Axis travel. (Around 1.65") In order to make them work, I have to modify the X-Axis slide block by cutting the hook off each end. This is no great loss, as it is filled with holes from the previous design. But the material must be replaced by a large block of aluminum on each end. These blocks will be connected to the THK trucks, as well as the 3/4" thick side plates. Then I will need a complete redesign of the "L" shaped feet, which will now have a track milled the full length for the THK linear rail to nest in. Both the front & rear plates attached to the T-Slot plate will need to be remade, as none of the existing holes will line up with the new parts.

Total material cost for this upgrade:

2pc MIC-6. Front & Rear Plates, 24 1/4 x 3 3/8 x 1/2 = $30.00 each.
2pc 6061, X-Axis Slide Blocks, 6 x 5 x 3 = $37.25 each.
2pc 6061, Outer Base Plates, 24 x 6 x 1 1/4 = 61.11 each.
4pc THK Rails w/Dual Trucks = $545.00
Total: $799.72 plus shipping

Now, that's a expensive upgrade!

I will post some pics of the new CAD design when finished, and start on making the new parts.

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

Here are a few CAD images with the modifications I have chosen:

[widgitmaster]

So far I have ordered and received the THK linear rails for all three axis of this large router, along with all the 6061 bar stock to make the replacement parts. The progress has been slow due to many factors, such as tropical storms, death in the family, financial issues etc.

As soon as I get all the Mini & Wide-Routers finished, I will start on the modifications of the big router. I have had some time to update my CAD files, so all the problems should be resolved! After I remove all the V-Groove rails & bearings from this machine and replace them with THK linear slides, this machine will be incredibly strong and solid! But it will not be a V-Router any more! Anyone have a suggestion for a new name?

Widgit

[chaterlea25]

Hi Eric,
I have been following the build of this machine from the start and really felt your dissapointment when you had all the computer problems and now this!!
When you fit the new rails it will be an awsome machine!
How about calling it Widgitmonster?

Best wishes
John O R

[.xXACEXx.]

widgitmaster...

one sure fire way to get a new name for the new router is like gecko drive did for the new g250/g251 drives....give stuff away!! maybe a mini router to the winner? (jest jokin)


you mention that you may need the 2nd set of rails for the "Y" axis so you must be gonna still use the v-groove rollers for the y axis for now...so till you change them out you could call it the "hybrid" .

good luck with the rework! it should be more solid always a good thing.

[widgitmaster]

Finally, all my projects are done, and the shop is nice and clean!
Now it's time to repair this Big-Router!

So far I have the aluminum stock, three sets of THK linear rails with dual trucks, two boxes of SS metric cap screws, and all the CAD drawings!
My first task is to make the two long side plates which will have the rails fastened to them. The stock is 23" x 6" x 1 1/4" , the 1st thing I'll do is fly-cut the bottom's nice and flat. So here we go!

[Miata2k]

Widgit,

It's great to see that you are getting back to your own project again. I can't wait to see this thing run.

Also are you going to to the full play by play construction process. I think everyone here really enjoys reading how you build this stuff, and likes to see all of your tips and tricks!

-C

[widgitmaster]

Off to a good start!
Today I setup the mill with two vises, so that I can hold the long parts. But first I needed to stone the table and the bottom of the vises to make sure they sit flat on the table! Now with my long soft jaws, I can fly-cut one side of both parts nice and flat!

Then I removed the soft jaws and installed my tall jaws. This way I can put that newly machined surface against the tall jaw, and machine the edges parallel. The part was sitting on two 123 blocks, to raise it off the floor of the vises as they are not equal.

Now that I have three machined surfaces on each part, I put back the long soft jaws and machined them true so the part would nest nicely.

[widgitmaster]

Now that the part is sitting in the soft jaws, it's time to mill the track for the linear rail to nest into. Because its important to control the depth of the slot, I have chosen to use one of my little quill spacers. This way I can tighten the quill's stop nut up against one of the spacers, and lock the quill clamp to ensure there is no movement at the cutter. This is one of my methods to keep parts precision, as the knee on a mill has so much weight on it that it's more accurate than the quill!

So for starters, I have scribed some layout lines on the parts with my height gage, and set the spindle to zero on the back edge of the part. Then I moved to the center of the slot and set zero. now all I need to do is subtract the diameter of the end mill from the final width of the slot. Divide the difference by 2, and that is my offset!

With the slots finished, I proceeded to mill off the rest of the top surfaces, leaving .005 on the floor of the wide step. As the floor will be machined in a different setup.

VIDEO (8.28 MB)

[widgitmaster]

No I have to mill the floor of the wide step, to do this I will use a long end mill, and hold the part on it's edge. This surface does not require any precision, but it will be visible after the machine is assembled. So using the side of a long end mill will remove the circular swirls left by the end mill, and leave a uniform flat surface!

Next I setup a stop on the vise, so that I could mill the parts to length. With all the milling finished, I decided to setup the grinder with an abrasive cut off wheel, so that I can cut the rails to fit! This will be done tomorrow, as I've done enough for one day!

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

This morning I drilled & tapped the plates for M5x.8, then I cut the rails on the grinder with the abrasive cut-off wheel!

As you can see from the movie, the guard was open to allow access for the camera, but that meant I get blasted with hot sparks! This was complicated even more, as I tried to feed the rail into the cut-off wheel with my left hand while holding the camera in the other

Now the rails are securely mounted in the base plates, all that's left is to drill, tap, and ream the holes in the ends of the base plates! I'll do that after the next two parts are finished!

VIDEO (8.4 MB)

[Miata2k]

As you can see from the movie, the guard was open to allow access for the camera, but that meant I get blasted with hot sparks! This was complicated even more, as I tried to feed the rail into the cut-off wheel with my left hand while holding the camera in the other

Widgit,

First, you need to get a tripod or some type of camera mount! I think the screw on a tripod is just a 1/4-20, so maybe you could make something. If you only knew someone that was handy in a machine shop, I'm sure they could make some type of magnetic mount for you.

Maybe I missed the description, but why did you cut the rail with the abrasive disc, as opposed to any other tool in your shop. I figured that rough cut end would just drive you crazy! I'm expecting to see the rail in the mill any minute now.

-C

[widgitmaster]

Widgit,

First, you need to get a tripod or some type of camera mount!
Maybe I missed the description, but why did you cut the rail with the abrasive disc, as opposed to any other tool in your shop.
-C

No time to fuss with cameras & tripods
As for cutting the rail, it is not visible when assembled, and it was hardened steel!

[widgitmaster]

This afternoon I made the front & rear plates. First I milled the edges to size, then the length. Next I drilled, tapped & reamed the holes on the top edge, where the T-Slot plate will be attached.

Next I drilled, reamed, and c-bored the holes in the face of the plates. These holes will match up with the two base plates I made yesterday!

[widgitmaster]

This morning I finished up the rear plate, drilled & countersunk the big holes in the base plates, and cleaned up the chips!

Now I have to rotate the mill's turret 35°, and extend the ram. This way I can use the big angle plate with my new side plate, to drill, ream & tap the end holes on the two base plates.

Next I'll make the two blocks which attach to the linear trucks and the big gantry side plates!

Tonight I'll order a new ball screw & nut, along with two bearings to support the ends.

Widgit

[.xXACEXx.]

lookin good widgitmaster ,looks like your back on "track" now,and "roller -ing" right along

[widgitmaster]

This morning I squared up the blocks using my big fly-cutter and a shell mill, then I changed the blade in my band saw to an 8 TPI raker! This allowed me to cut clear through the 6" thick block of aluminum (with a little noise and a wax-stick)

Then I finished milling out the inside steps, so the blocks would sit nicely on top of the linear trucks! Now I can't fully calculate where this block will sit on the two trucks, as I have to remove the 45° grease fittings and replace them with straight ones! The more decrease the width of these blocks, the more I increase the actual travel in this axis!

[widgitmaster]

I'm surprised no one has asked me why I'm re-making the entire base assembly, as opposed to just the base plates and slide block! Actually, the only thing wrong with the initial design is the 24" height of the gantry and all its weight! So by remaking a lower and lighter gantry assembly, the old v-groove base will still function!! It's also better than having a lot of precision machined parts in my scrap barrel!

So when this Big-Router is finished, I will make a new upper section and sell it to recover the cost of this upgrade! Any one interested in a machine with 19"x19" travel?

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

This afternoon I finished milling the steps on the two blocks, to do this I needed to rotate the vise again!

That's enough for one day!

Tomorrow afternoon I'll drill & tap some holes, and switch over the grease fittings!

Widgit

[widgitmaster]

When I removed the grease fittings from the trucks, I found out THK used a non standard fitting! (:

The threads are M6x1.75, and the standard is M6x1!

Does anyone know where I can get some M6x1.75 straight grease fittings?

Widgit