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Thread: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

  1. #101
    Member Biggs427's Avatar
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Thanks Nic ans Fretman.

    I didn't do a finish pass as the braces attach the race car body to the chassis so it's hidden. But even with a single pass, the finish is quite good. Probably have to do with the clamping that is strong engough.

    Alu needs waaaaayyyy better clamping than wood or solid surface!



  2. #102
    Member Biggs427's Avatar
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    A new project I did last week.

    I bought a new bike to my daughter but the chainring was too tall (40 teeth) do ride it in trails near our house. I decided to try to machine a 32 teeth chainring.

    First I did a mockup in plywood to make certain it would fit the bike chain.


    Then I proceeded to fix the 150mm x 150mm x 6mm thick 6061 plate.


    I first started by roughing the pockets:


    Then brought the outer rim to 2.1mm thick:
    Video:

    For both I used adaptive clearing. (Climb cutting)
    Cutter: Yonico 31011-SC 1/8 single flute
    RPM:15000
    DOC: 1.5mm (0.060'')Feed: 750mm/min (30 IPM) This gives a 0.05mm chip load. (0.002'')
    Tool engagement: 0.07mm (0.030'')

    Once the roughing was done I proceeded to finish the 0.5mm (0.020'') left by the roughing operation.
    Video:

    Cutter: Hydracarb 1/4 3 flutesRPM: 11 000 rpmDoc: Full depth (6 mm)Feed: 850mm/min (33 ipm) gives a 0.001 chip load. (0.0254mm)

    The finish is better than what I hoped for:


    My daughter asked me to engrave hearts in the ring. I did this using a carbide 6mm diam. 2 flutes 90deg cutter from china. I also used it to make a 0.5mm chamfer on all the corners.

    Finally I fixed the chainring using a bolt in the center hole to cut the teeth contour without having to use tabs.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAjeY3_k6PY

    Also used the Yonico single flute but dialed the DOC to 0.5mm (0.020'') since the tool was fully engaged.


    The result is quite good. I took some measurements and most are below 0.003'' from my CAD model




    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0635-jpg   Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0599-jpg   Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0662-jpg   Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0664-jpg  



  3. #103

    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Awesome work!



  4. #104
    Member Biggs427's Avatar
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by fretman_2 View Post
    Awesome work!
    Thanks!

    The chainring is now on the bike and it helps my daughter climb steeper and rougher trails! As long as she's happy I'm happy. :-)




    I took a crappy bike and made it a less crappy bike.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0668-jpg  


  5. #105

    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    How's the aluminum going to hold up to the steel chain?



  6. #106
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by fretman_2 View Post
    How's the aluminum going to hold up to the steel chain?
    So far so good!

    It's holding up probably due to the fact that half the teeth are in contact with the chain.

    Edit: I'm even thinking of machining an oval chainring for my own mountain bike.



  7. #107

    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Hey...if they wear out you have a very exclusive relationship with the manufacturer!



  8. #108
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by fretman_2 View Post
    Hey...if they wear out you have a very exclusive relationship with the manufacturer!
    Yeah, that damn manufacturer; he's always late for delivery...

    The put 7075 aluminium chainring on 7000$ carbon fiber mountain bikes and its holding up so I think that a 6 years old should be ok with 6061-T6. If not, I'll definitely register her in some cross-country races.



  9. #109
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Would hard anodizing help?

    Gerry

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  10. #110
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fretman_2 View Post
    How's the aluminum going to hold up to the steel chain?
    Used to run an aluminum sprocket on my freestyle bike back in the day...



  11. #111
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    Would hard anodizing help?

    If I make parts for my own bike, that would probably be the case and I would also use harder alloy.

    For the kid this is more than enough for now.



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    My latest project was a small box with a letter "embeded" in the top part. Don't really know the name of that technique.

    I took mahogany scraps we had at work and made the top and bottom out of it. The letter is made of birch, 0.010 smaller than the pocket in the top part to make sure it fits and is 0.125 thick. The pocket in the top is 0.130 deep. I glued it and it was really close, only need to sand it a little and put a mate varnish on the box.

    I'm using neodymium magnet to hold th box closed.




    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0769-jpg   Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0773-jpg  
    Last edited by Biggs427; 12-01-2017 at 10:27 AM.


  13. #113

    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Nice!! Can you show a pic of the top too? As it turns out, ring/jewelry boxes are some of the most popular things that I've made on my CNC machine. I usually have plenty of scrap wood left over that is perfect for making them.

    Here's a round one I cut out of black walnut on my CNC machine. The finish is superglue I think.






    Quote Originally Posted by Biggs427 View Post
    My latest project was a small box with a letter "embeded" in the top part. Don't really know the name of that technique.

    I took mahogany scraps we had at work and made the top and bottom out of it. The letter is made of birch, 0.010 smaller than the pocket in the top part to make sure it fits and is 0.125 thick. The pocket in the top is 0.130 deep. I glued it and it was really close, only need to sand it a little and put a mate varnish on the box.

    I'm using neodymium magnet to hold th box closed.



    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-dsc_0188-jpg   Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-dsc_0187-jpg  


  14. #114
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by fretman_2 View Post
    Nice!! Can you show a pic of the top too?
    I corrected my post, you should see the top now.

    That's really nice box you made!

    It's fun working with alu, but that kind of projects is exactly what I built my CNC in the first place.



  15. #115
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    My latest project was a small box with a letter "embeded" in the top part. Don't really know the name of that technique.

    Inlay.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    Inlay.

    Thanks Gerry!



  17. #117

    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Wow...nice work!

    Quote Originally Posted by Biggs427 View Post
    I corrected my post, you should see the top now.

    That's really nice box you made!

    It's fun working with alu, but that kind of projects is exactly what I built my CNC in the first place.
    - - - Updated - - -

    Thanks...I agree.

    Quote Originally Posted by Biggs427 View Post
    I corrected my post, you should see the top now.

    That's really nice box you made!

    It's fun working with alu, but that kind of projects is exactly what I built my CNC in the first place.




  18. #118
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I'm planning the upgrade of the Z axis to:
    - Get rid of the T8 acme rod and install a ballscrew.
    - Better access to bolts to facilitate maintenance
    - Taller to allow for more clearance when using longer tools
    - XL belt driven ballscrew to allow for fine tuning of pitch and keep the machine from being too tall.

    Here's a preliminary CAD model I did:
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-z-axis-2-0-1-jpg

    All the ballscrews on X and Y are 10mm pitch. I'm planning to use the same for Z and if the 311oz stepper is not enough, the fact I'll just have to change the gearing of the belt.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-z-axis-2-0-1-jpg  


  19. #119
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Hey Fred - I'm no expert as i'm still working on my first machine but I have read that rails for the Z-axis should be on the side of the router plate as it adds stiffness. Any paritcular reason for this design ?



  20. #120
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I choose this design so I can access ALL the bolts when I do a maintenance on the machine without tearing it apart.



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