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  1. #61
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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by Biggs427 View Post

    She think I can build everything which is not good...
    I can see that being an issue lol .

    It would be pretty cool if she continued to have interest in CNC's when she's an adult . Who knows where it may lead her

    I don't actually know anything about CNC router tables , but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night


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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by Biggs427 View Post
    I finally found the time to do some test.
    The test I made was the following:

    1/4 and 3/4 LOC straight cutter:

    The rpm was set to approx. 15000rpm on the router.

    I made 3 1in squares at 0.125, 0.25 and 0.375 DOC with conventional path and three other using climb milling.

    Feed was set at 100ipm. I'm not really sure about this one.
    I would like to try the same test with my machine. For the cutting path, I just want to confirm that you used a plunge entry to go down to full depth and then made one pass to complete the square? What was the distance from the bottom of the collet to the end of the cutter? When you said, "not really sure about this one", do you mean you're not sure if it actually cut at 100 ipm or not sure what speed you had it set to? What is your acceleration set to?

    Jeremy
    http://www.diycncdesign.com/


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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I ramped until the correct doc cause my cutter is not centrr cutting.

    For example I had a 3/4 mdf sheet. The gcode for the .025 passwas like this:
    G0 z0.80
    G1 f100 x1.25 z0.5
    G1 y1.25
    G1 x0
    G1 y0
    G1 1.25
    G0 z 1

    And yes, I wasn't certain about the 100ipm. I felt it was a bit too slow.



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Looks good!

    I would do the climb cut passes first and leave about .005"-.010" cleanup with conventional (or climb) pass and see if you get better results. Conventional will usually "pull" the tool into the work (testing your machine's rigidity) but a "spring" pass with climb cutting followed by a finishing pass conventional, so the lighter chipload will not cause the tool to pull in, may help.



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    The test above was to measure flex more to have a good cut. I usually leave 0.5mm (default in F360) and make a finishing pass a full depth but I didn't thought to do the pass backward. Thanks for the tips; I'm going to test it for sure!

    Jeremy: I just measured the cutter and the tip was 1.175in from collet and the LOC is not 3/4 it is 5/8.



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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Biggs427 View Post
    Over the weekend I made the base: a 48 x 28 x 6 inches torsion box made with 3/4 BB:
    Attachment 347638

    I pays to take its time; when I put the straight edge on top of it, I couldn't see light between the top and the staight edge.
    Attachment 347640

    I even took another one thinking that the first one was bended.
    To think, 2 bent straightedges hahaha!



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Lol!

    That crossed my mind too and even if it was veeeeery unlikely, I re-tested my straight edge on the X axis epoxy surface.



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I had an "order" from my favorite helper to make wooden roads so she can play with her small cars.

    I was tired of cheaps cutter and found a Freud 75-102 (2 flutes low helix upcut) for 20$ so I tried it. I gained confidence working with my previous CNC and this one is reliable so far so I wasn't worried that much to use a good cutter. This cutter is light years from Chinese spiral cutters I was used to.

    When the Z axis is at 0, it cuts ALL the material but I can't feel anything on the waste board. With cheaps cutters, I had to offset 0.002-003 deeper in th ewaste board to have all material removed. I'm really impressed!

    The parts were machined in 1/2 BB plywood:


    The result is pretty good and my daughter was really happy.


    Now I really need to complete this dust boot ...

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0008-jpg  


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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Got bored yesterday and decided to try harder material than wood or aluminium.

    I had a small mild steel flat bar epoxied on a piece of plywood from the tests I made before building this machine.



    I used a 3flutes 1/8 HSS cutter (1/4 shank) to machine a small 6mm x 20mm slot 5mm deep.

    This cutter is from China so if anything had gone wrong, this would have been a 4$ loss.

    I calculated that with a 0.001 chip load the feed rate should be around 26IPM (650mm/min) and was very conservative with the DOC: 0.010.

    Either I got my feed correctly or this cut wasn't long enough (2 min) to over heat the cutter but 10 sec after the cut finished I could touch it with bare hand and it wasn't really hot.

    The finish is not as bad as I would have thought, but I could feel each passes with my nail.



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Nice job on the steel. I've done the same thing on my wood machine. Not something I'd do everyday, but it was better than my old method of using an endmill in my drill press, lol.



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Finally found the time to build a dust shoe.

    The router I use exhaust air from the bottom so the chips were flying everywhere.
    Attachment 361118

    To prevent turbulence caused by the spindle, I made exhaust ports on top of the shoe. I used a ball mill to machine the pocket from the boot to the "shopvac" port.
    Attachment 361116

    On the other side of the bottom I machined a small pocket to put the brush into. I put thickened epoxy to hold the brush in place. The brush comes from a paint brush I got in a "dollar store". I didn't want to pay a lot since I didn't know if my design was good.
    Attachment 361120

    I machined Corian for the first time today. This is a 80mm to 70mm fan adapter for a cpu. I should have used a 90deg cutter instead of a ball mill to machine the chamfer. This material produce way less dust than wood!! But I got to be careful with static electricity!!
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0032-jpg



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    A little waste board improvement.

    We had solid surface left overs at work and one was big enough to be used as a waste board. I machined it using the same pattern as my current waste board.
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0056-jpg

    I surfaced my old MDF board then sealed it epoxy and glued the 12mm corian on top of it.
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0060-jpg

    Should be cured tonight.

    This should be more stable than plain MDF.

    I don't do alu really often but with this and the rest of my machine sealed with epoxy, I should be able to use mist coolant if needed.



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by Biggs427 View Post
    And yes, I wasn't certain about the 100ipm. I felt it was a bit too slow.
    I finally got around to running the same test cuts that you did, so we could compare results. I included a video, so you can comment if you think the 100 ipm looks like the same as what your machine was running. See the results over on my thread.

    Jeremy
    http://www.diycncdesign.com/


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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    A friend asked me to machine aluminium angles for his late model stock car body. It needs a 3/16 hole each 8 in. I did 0.25 slots too. Not certain that it gives a real advantage but hey, race parts are supposed to be light! Lol

    I built a jig I can machine from 0.75 x 0.75 angles to 2 x 2. My first test was a 25 in 1x1.

    Not certain which alloy these extrusion are made of but it stick to the cutter like maple taffy... The first run didn't went well as the feed was for a 3 flutes cutter but the cutter I had was a 4 flutes.

    Too many flutes and slow speed = burnt cutter with alu welded on it.
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0095-jpg

    Realising it, I cranked up the feed from 1100mm/min (43imp) to 130% and it did the trick. 4f 1/8 cutter at 1400mm/min, and 11000rpm.

    Still it needed WD-40 cause of the "sticky" alloy.
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0086-jpg

    With a roughing and a finishing pass, the slots are 0.249 ant the holes are 0.1880
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0089-jpg Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0098-jpg

    Quite happy with the final reslut:
    Second build - Baltic Birch Frame-img_0087-jpg



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Nice machine! I was wondering about taking the same test as you to see as well. ButI wondered: isn't 100ipm a bit too slow? With a 4 flute at 15000rpm that gives a chip load of 0.00167 ipt. I was going to try something like 500 ipm or lower spindle speed - what do you think? Probably the DOC needs to be adjusted?

    Or is it better they way you did it -light chip load and larger DOC?



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    I'm using a 2 flutes not 4 but you are right, 100 ipm is a bit too slow even for a straight cutter.

    After some tests, the minimum I'm running now in MDF with this cutter is 150 ipm with a 1/4 DOC.



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    With "gummier" aluminum, a low helix endmill works better. A high helix endmill, like shown, gives each flute more engagemet into the workpiece, the opposite with what you want. If you got that angle at the local hardware store, it's probably 6063 or even softer 3003.

    I would save the 3-flute endmills for finish passes; and use 2 and even 1 flute endmills to rough. The higher helix endmills work great on harder aluminum however, which are the ones that make chips easier.



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Thanks for the tips, I think I have an O' Flute style cutter with lower helix than the one from the picture. I'll try it.

    I asked the vendor and the alloy is 6063-T5. From what I've seen in my search, it have less than ideal machinability.

    In order to prevent alu melting on the endmill tip I had to use plenty of WD-40.

    If my friend keeps crashing his race car and need more braces I'll call the extrusion manufacturer and ask them a different alloy or tell my freind to drive a go-kart! LOL



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by Biggs427 View Post
    I'm using a 2 flutes not 4 but you are right, 100 ipm is a bit too slow even for a straight cutter.

    After some tests, the minimum I'm running now in MDF with this cutter is 150 ipm with a 1/4 DOC.
    Okey, my mistake. Thought I read 4 flute.
    As I understand slower speed will result in a nicer finish but more wear on the cutter?



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    Default Re: Second build - Baltic Birch Frame

    Quote Originally Posted by Buoyen View Post
    Okey, my mistake. Thought I read 4 flute.
    As I understand slower speed will result in a nicer finish but more wear on the cutter?
    You can't go too slow as it will burn the cutter. I've burn't my share of cutter before I learn this. I'm no specialist but from my limited experience, if the cutter is sharp enough the finish should be good.



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