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  1. #81
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    I was reffering to the vertical distace between the bearings. Seems to me that with the mounting plate on there, the shorter distance will act as a more effective fulcrum, in a 20,000rpm lever. This is why I have been trying to caution people against too long of a z-travel for their first machine. The z is already the hardest part to build (in fact when I am trying one of my new ideas, I usually start with the z, then y, then x), and more travel makes it harder. IMHO.

    Stop talking about it and do it already!!!!!

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  2. #82
    Registered xairflyer's Avatar
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    Picture is a bit deceiving, and spacing of the blocks is not as is, it was the first bit of nylon I lifted !

    There are 10" between the end plates, I will space the blocks about 5", with the limit switch's there will be about 4 1/2" travel.

    Arvidb is right the Y rails are the weak spot in my machine. I have suport blocks already made up for bottom and top of the Y rails. Don't intend fitting them until I have everything where I want it.



  3. #83
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    Originally posted by xairflyer
    *snip* There are 10" between the end plates, I will space the blocks about 5", with the limit switch's there will be about 4 1/2" travel.

    Arvidb is right the Y rails are the weak spot in my machine. I have suport blocks already made up for bottom and top of the Y rails. *snip*
    Since my last post was a bit unclear: I was too referring to the vertical distance between the bearings, not the distance between rails.

    If I understand your description correctly, maybe the end plates will be spaced far enough apart, and the travel will be small enough, for you to be able to fit a support at the mid-point of the Z rails, in addition to the end supports? If you could find room for this, it would stiffen things up considerably.

    And if not, and if you are unhappy with the amount of flex when the machine is finished, you would at least have the option of sacrificing some Z travel to get more stiffness. It all depends on what you are going to cut. If balsa I guess it won't matter!

    Arvid



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    I don't think the Z axis rails are going anywhere, they are hardened ground rods and being only 12" long the best deflection I could get by really forcing them was .1mm.

    The mdf is 1" and again over this short distance it is very ridged.
    Any flex or movement is going to be in the Y axis, I will need to make my support rails, very accurate.



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    Sounds like we are all on the same page! BTW...didn't say it before, its looking really good! Can't wait to see it finished and movin'!

    Stop talking about it and do it already!!!!!

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  6. #86
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    Still working on the Z axis, I have scrapped the idea of using the leadscrew/motor combo I got from www.manufacturist.com
    due to the low torque of the motor.

    Decided the Z could do with a good motor as it does have to lift the z axis and the weight of the router, so I am using one of the vexta 127 ozins motors I had been saving for no. 2 !!

    I am using 12mm threaded rod, so I turned down the end to a nice fit in my bearing in the end plate, and drilled the other end for the shaft of my stepper.
    The stepper had a hole in the shaft so I done the same in the all thread and fitted a roll pin to secure it to the shaft.

    Tapped the 1" nylon block I made for the simplicity bearings with a tap made from the all thread, and it works good.

    Need to start painting as I don't want to take this apart again.

    Pics to follow, camera batteries were flat !!



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    Sounds good! That lead screw would work well for another project once seperated from the motor. It is teflon coated steel, and really nice! It is very unfortunate that the motors are not very strong. We think they were origionally used horizontally, as they seem to work much better that way. Can't wait to see those pics!

    Stop talking about it and do it already!!!!!

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  8. #88
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    I am going to keep the stepper/leadscrew for a small pcb machine I am going to build, it will work ok for that.

    Here is some pics.
    I am away for a week so the work has stopped.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Xairflyer's first MDF CNC router-z-axis-screw-jpg  


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    Nice job!

    Eric

    I wish it wouldn't crash.


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    Default NICE!!

    Yes very nice. Very good quality work you are doing there..

    My little piece of the web!
    http://users.adelphia.net/~wjdupont



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    I have became a massive fan of the flat wood bit. The skate bearing used in the end plate is 22mm OD as you know, so I ground down a 22mm flat bit to about 21.75mm.

    I then had a squeeze fit in the end plate for the bearing.

    Great bits these, you can as accurate hole as you want with a little of regrinding !



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    Been away for a week and could'nt wait to get back to finish my machine.

    Spent yesterday completing the Z and making a clamp for the router.

    The z axis works very well, the 12mm all thread lead screw suits it perfectly, with the 127oz ins stepper.

    Still think the Y axis is the weak link in the machine, I am going to make supports for the rails and see how it goes.
    I will probably change them down the road for 20mm (3/4") shaft and Simplicity bearings like I done for the Z.

    Pictures below show the Z temporarily fitted to the carriage as I am going to paint it before I bolt it up for good.

    Also pic below shows the router spinning with the lights ON !!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Xairflyer's first MDF CNC router-router-fitted-jpg  


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    I dont know if I missed it up thread but anyway.
    What are your expectations about precision?



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    Won't know for certain until I reasemble it all this week as I have been painting. (a lot of painting)

    Time spent on the setup will determine how good I get it, If I can't get it within what I expect for this first machine then I will change it. Would expect to get it as good or better than what is normal for rollar bearing machines.



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    xairflyer,
    that machine looks like the dogs 'whatsits' have you drawn any plans up?
    Very very impressed at the design, if you do have any plans/drawings/ sizes I would be very grateful.
    Keep up the excellent work
    Gus



  16. #96
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    I do intend to produce a plan, as it is difficult to get any outside the states.

    As an update, I have stripped the whole machine and have it all painted. I am in the middle of building it up again, and setting up the rails etc.

    Glad I decided to dowel most of it as it has made the reassembly much more streight forward.



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    xairflyer
    daft question but here goes.
    The router is just plugged straight into mains and is not going to be controlled by P.C.? You plug in to switch ON and unplug to switch OFF!
    Gus



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    Yes, but some boards also have a means of controlling that as well.



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    Thumbs up Plans

    Yes any type of bits at a good price in the uk is a pain. The price and getting plans steppers and linear bearings etc well every time i look at the US theres loads and at good prices. Keep up the good work on your mill i am just about to start mine.
    Mdf is what ill have a play with. I am only working to A4 size for pcb drilling. Iwas thinking of 400mm across and 600mm towards me on the bed in 16mm bar and the same sort of bearing you are using on the rails but slightly different way of using them.
    Have some old type 23 70oz steppers 2.25 volts so should do the job. And kellyware software.

    Glen



  20. #100
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    I am going to build a PCB machine as soon as I finish this one, I am already gathering up the bits !

    I am interested to find out more on the whole making pcb's process with type of machine.



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