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Thread: Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build

  1. #41
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    I'd probably go with the most dense I can get. My prototype has taught me a lot already. The ribs are impossible to smooth out and they lose definition when cleaning up the mold. I will probably just go with a smooth shoulder on the next one. It should make release a lot easier too. I used titebond iii to laminate the MDF one coat thinned to soak in, then a second coat straight out of the bottle. Hopefully the wood glue doesn't separate like the laminating epoxy. Sanding it after it is sealed is much harder and the sealer soaks in really well. And folded sandpaper in tight spots does a number on your fingernails. They are really short and hurting now.



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    For my wood projects, I cut sand paper to whatever width strips I need, of twice the length I want to use. Spray a light coat of 3M77 spray adhesive on the strip, wave it around for a few seconds to get tacky, then fold in half. It's stiffer, doesn't slide apart when sanding with it, it's double sided grit, and you have better grip on the sand paper. It's not nearly as tiring to work with it. Being stiffer lets you roll it into a curve that matches what you are working on.

    I also make sanding blocks of any shape I need from 1x2 pine or oak strips, cut sandpaper to fit, and spray the sandpaper with 3M77. Wave the sandpaper to get it tacky and then stick it to the wood block for sanding flat areas. Don't spray the wood block, just spray the sandpaper. It acts like a Post-it note when you want to change sandpaper. Peel it off and install another piece.

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    After trying CarveOne's advice with the sandpaper, it made it easier but I was still not happy with the results. The original finish file was run as an offset which left the path mostly perpendicular to the ribs in the shoulder, which left little notches. Also I believe that since the 1/8" ballnose has to be extended so far, to expect perfect results from just one finish pass is asking too much. It seemed like it was getting a bit of deflection when zipping through the stepped areas left by the roughing pass.

    So I put the mold halves back on the machine and ran another finish pass removing just .002". I also used a raster pattern so that it was the same direction as the ribs. The results are much better.

    Perfect registration at the base. The drill bit is 1/2" and fits like a glove. We'll see how the rest of it turns out after the cone is cast. Now I get to seal and sand again, oh boy.......

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-cone-molds-003-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-cone-molds-004-jpg  


  4. #44
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    I'm getting close to trying out that mold but now I have a new project on the machine:

    I've been keeping an eye out for dust collectors on CL and garage sales. I got one today. A HF 2hp with tons of hoses, gates and fittings and even a cyclone lid that fits on a garbage can, all for $150. I have to design my dust shoe now.

    I know I've seen some creative ways to manage the hose, but I can't' seem to find them now. I'm thinking some sort of overhead track system maybe?



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    Member revwarguy's Avatar
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    Hi Dev,

    Just caught up with your build and it looks like you've done it! As for the pre-run jitters, I can tell you what I did when I got started, right after considering the bitterness that comes from ruining an expensive bit due to a stupid mistake: I made up a checklist of things to make sure about before hitting the cycle start button. It has been shown that if you do something for 60 days then it's a habit, so you don't have to check it forever, but I found it helped.

    Anyway, congratulations! You're gonna have a ball!

    "72.6 per cent of all statistics are made up on the spot." - Steven Wright


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    Quote Originally Posted by revwarguy View Post
    Hi Dev,

    ... It has been shown that if you do something for 60 days then it's a habit, so you don't have to check it forever, but I found it helped.

    Anyway, congratulations! You're gonna have a ball!
    But doesn't that mean going through the checklist becomes a habit?

    Paul Rowntree
    Vectric Gadgets, WarpDriver, StandingWave and Topo available at PaulRowntree.weebly.com


  7. #47
    Member revwarguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulRowntree View Post
    But doesn't that mean going through the checklist becomes a habit?
    Yep, that's what it means all right - I meant that after a while, you don't have to pick up a piece of paper anymore.

    "72.6 per cent of all statistics are made up on the spot." - Steven Wright


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    Quote Originally Posted by revwarguy View Post
    Hi Dev,

    I made up a checklist of things to make sure about before hitting the cycle start button. It has been shown that if you do something for 60 days then it's a habit, so you don't have to check it forever, but I found it helped.

    Anyway, congratulations! You're gonna have a ball!
    Thanks for all of the inspiration and encouragement. I've made a lot of changes in my life by following the 60 day rule, so I'll do as you recommend.

    And yes, I'm already having a ball. I can't believe the quality I'm getting out of my dumpster dive machine. I still have a few things to finish up, but that is all part of DIY. I'll continue to update the thread when I add to the machine, or happen to make something of interest.



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    I've been machining quite a few of the rocket fin cans in different sizes now. The Solsylva has been doing production duty work lately, putting in 12-14 hour days. Still going strong with the EZ driver board. Machining aluminum @ 135 IPM. First set of router bearings starting to get a bit noisy.

    Planning to machine parts for a CNC guitar pickup winder soon.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-6-resized-jpg  
    Last edited by Devastator; 11-30-2013 at 05:55 PM. Reason: spelling


  10. #50
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    I did my first engraving file today. It is a faceplate for a step sequencer. Sorry for the poor photo, I took a dozen and this is the only one that was halfway good.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-engrave-jpg  


  11. #51
    Member revwarguy's Avatar
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    Very Cool!

    That is steel !?!

    What kind of bit, feeds & speeds, etc?

    What kind of step sequencer?

    "72.6 per cent of all statistics are made up on the spot." - Steven Wright


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    Quote Originally Posted by revwarguy View Post
    Very Cool!

    That is steel !?!

    What kind of bit, feeds & speeds, etc?

    What kind of step sequencer?
    I have machined steel on my Solsylva, but this is aluminum .125" 6061 T6. I used a random orbital sander to clean it up. Engraving bit is a drillman1 60 degree engraver running @15K RPM, 50 IPM. Depth of the main lettering was .015", while the Vitruvian man was .010". I had to vectorize the file from a bmp so it came out pixelated. I probably should buy the vector file since I plan to do a few more of these. I thought that you would not be able to see the pixels in the carving, but it appears that my machine has pretty good resolution. The engraving file took an hour.

    It is an analog step sequencer of my own design, but loosely based off of the one at Music From Outer Space - Your Synth-DIY Headquarters It is not for a synth, it is for my guitar rig.



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    More decorative finishes using a .75" wire brush with a rubber band around the bristles to hold them tight together.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-decorative-finish-1-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-decorative-finish-7-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-decorative-finish-3-jpg  


  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devastator View Post
    More decorative finishes using a .75" wire brush with a rubber band around the bristles to hold them tight together.
    Really nice stuff!

    I've done some decorative engraving using Mastercam's different toolpaths for pocketing and high speed machining. You can get some interesting patterns.
    On one project I simply made different dummy pockets and used different patterns to get different looks. In one, a martial arts piece, a yin-yang thing looked really great.



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    Quote Originally Posted by fizzissist View Post
    Really nice stuff!
    Thanks! That's all I did on the fins was an offset pocket pattern. The dots are a bit more time consuming. Layed out to be non-directional, layer 1 is the back ones, and layer 2 is the front ones. I tried some with overlaps like fish scales, but it didn't turn out because I didn't program it in layers and the CAM program just did them in the most efficient manner, so the pattern was all messed up. I really like the spirals the best the way they catch the light. I'm going to experiment with some coatings, like a blackener, and a chromate. Anodizing and dying may also be in the future. I can already anodize, but the dye and seal process takes some infrastructure that I'm not sure I have the room for, especially if I want an assortment of colors.

    I'm really pretty happy with how my machine performs on metal, but I do have some plans on improving it just a bit for more rigidity when the Z is extended.

    I'd like to see a photo of your yin-yang piece if you have a link to it.



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    Don't have the original piece, just the working/set up piece... I'll photo it and post it. It's an Aikido thing...

    If you do anodizing, it would be interesting to anodize the part, then do some rapid feed rates so the whole surface isn't affected, then re-anodize in a different color...
    Take a "splash anodize" approach?



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    Quote Originally Posted by fizzissist View Post
    If you do anodizing, it would be interesting to anodize the part, then do some rapid feed rates so the whole surface isn't affected, then re-anodize in a different color...
    Take a "splash anodize" approach?
    I don't believe that would work because it would not only remove the color, but also the anodizing from those areas. It would have to go back into the ano tank after it has been dyed to re-apply the anodize/oxide layer before it could be dyed again. It would probably screw up the already dyed layer in the acid bath, or leach dye into the ano tank.

    It takes many steps to do a dye job. The anodizing just forms the oxide layer that the dye soaks into, then it is dyed, then sealed. The splash method is not done by splashing dye but by selectively coating the part to block the dye from absorbing in certain areas. The mask is sometimes splashed onto the part to block those areas from absorbing dye, thus making the splash patterning.



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    Just finished today's work so I have more photos of formed parts.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-decorative-finish-8-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-decorative-finish-9-jpg  


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    Here's some photos of the guitar pedal I'm working on. No knobs yet, that will take some time on the lathe.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-sequencer-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-sequencer3-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-sequencer4-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-sequencer5-jpg  



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    Default Re: Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build

    I decided to do a long overdue upgrade to my machine to make it more rigid. Starting with the Z axis and moving to the Y eventually. These parts were much more accurate than my first set of hand made parts when I built the machine. The Solsylva does a nice job on aluminum as long as I limit my DOC. Hopefully I can get a bit more aggressive after the new parts are on. I've been experimenting with HSM and three flute bits and have been getting really good results @135IPM in 5052, but with limited rigidity all it takes is just a hint of resonance and the bit explodes. Which means I go back to single flute and it takes three times as long, but at least I don't have to run coolant or stand there spraying with the single flutes.

    The new plates are 3/16" 6061, the rods are just CRS, not ideal but better than gas pipe. Drill rod would have been a better choice for smoothness and straightness. The CRS rod is nearly straight, much straighter than my first set of chrome pipes but not perfect.

    I'm getting better at drilling straight holes in the right place on round rod, practice makes perfect. Screws are countersunk stainless allen screws.

    I don't totally have my spindle mount worked out yet. I'd like to do it in aluminum but don't think I want to spend the money, so might go with laminated ply like my current mount only much thicker. We'll see....

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-zupgrade1-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-zupgrade2-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-zupgrade3-jpg   Devastator's Ongoing Solsylva Build-zupgrade4-jpg  



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