Finally got my stepper power supply, so I could test the AM882's I got from Ebay.
I'm only using two steppers, on this machine, for the two Z axes. I already had a 570oz motor from my previous Y axis servobelt mockup, so I decided to just get another one and use those for the Z's.
The motors are the 5amp versions. With 2.5mH inductance, Gecko's formula says to use a 50V power supply. But I went a little higher, and went with the Antek 400w PS-4N58, at 58V and 7 amps.
I probably could have gone with a 300w supply, but it's $5 price difference.
The voltage actually measured about 62V, but I didn't check with the motor running.
I got the drives on Ebay for about $80 each. I then saw them for $58, and bought two more for spares.
Some members here say they are fakes, and I was a little concerned. But I'm not so sure that these aren't legitimate Leadshine drives.
I ordered the tuning cable from American Motion Tech, and a USB to serial converter.
RS232 Cable for Tuning Leadshine Stepper/Servo Drive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The converter automatically installed it's drivers in Windows 10, and worked fine.
I set the dip switches for software configuration, and used Leadshines ProTuner software to configure the drive.
I set the current at 4.75 amps, and originally set the microstepping at 10. After playing with it a bit, I eventually set the microstepping to 32. With my 2 turns/inch screws, this will still give me up to 900ipm, at the drives limit of 200Khz.
I don't think it'll actually go that fast, so 300-400IPM is probably more realistic.
I set the current limiting to 35%, which still gives me about 200oz-in of torque when the axis aren't moving. I had it on for about an hour this morning, and it was only a little warm after that, with it running for maybe 10-15 minutes of that time.
I was a little concerned about heat, due to the higher voltage, but I don't think that it will be an issue.
I also spun it up to 1500rpm, and it was nice and smooth. When I tried to go 2000, the drive faulted. I'll probably disable the stall detection feature, as I don't anticipate my Z axis stalling. You have to re-power the drives to get them out of their fault, so If I do use it, I'll need to put a contactor in front of the power supply so I can turn it on and off without resetting the entire system.
Here's a video I made this morning: