New Machine Build Z² - Page 3


Page 3 of 14 FirstFirst 12345613 ... LastLast
Results 41 to 60 of 266

Thread:

  1. #41
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Alt-0178

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  2. #42
    Registered
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    America
    Posts
    663
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    Thanks though, for making me look up concomitant.
    If I can run my brain hard over CNC stuff, you can delve into the English language.

    Next we are going to move into iambic pentameter.

    Or a session of onomatopoeia with the basis being CNC.

    Last edited by zool; 11-07-2011 at 02:51 PM.


  3. #43
    Member Khalid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Pakistan
    Posts
    3498
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    any updates Gerry ?

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  4. #44
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1328
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Amazing Build Gerry!

    I can't imagine how much time you must have spent designing in CAD so far.. My back hurts just thinking about it!

    What is this pink foam stuff you're talking about? Sounds like a great way to make 3D dimensional objects with voids/hollows in them...


    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  5. #45
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    any updates Gerry ?
    Unfortunately, no. I've been working on some minor updates to the 2010 Screenset.

    I need to order some Epoxy tomorrow, and I may be able to assemble everything next weekend.

    What is this pink foam stuff you're talking about?
    Rigid foam insulation. You can get it at HD or Lowes. It's usually available in 3/4", 1", 1-1/2", and sometimes 2" thicknesses.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  6. #46
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1328
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    Unfortunately, no. I've been working on some minor updates to the 2010 Screenset.

    I need to order some Epoxy tomorrow, and I may be able to assemble everything next weekend.



    Rigid foam insulation. You can get it at HD or Lowes. It's usually available in 3/4", 1", 1-1/2", and sometimes 2" thicknesses.
    So you glue a bunch of layers together and then carve it? What do you use for glue that won't eat it up?

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  7. #47
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue)

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  8. #48
    Registered
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1328
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    So do you plan to carve it by CNC, if so what software are you using, and what bits?.. or will any bits work?
    Is melting an issue while carving (like acrylic)?

    How do you hold the work while carving with CNC?

    Or are you planning on carving it by hand..

    This is a cool concept, and might be the hot ticket for a couple accessories I want to make...


    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  9. #49
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    So do you plan to carve it by CNC, if so what software are you using, and what bits?
    Yes, and I use MeshCAM. I'll use the longest ballnose cutter I can find at a reasonable price. I'll probably need to cut it in 4-6 slices.

    Is melting an issue while carving (like acrylic)?
    I've never cut any, but I don't believe so.

    If you use the right bits and rpm, melting isn't an issue in acrylic either.

    Here's some more info for you.
    WEST SYSTEM - Projects - The "lost foam" method of composite fabrication

    The Lost Foam Technique for Making Fiberglass Parts - RC Groups

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  10. #50
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default Getting closer to assembly

    Finally tapped the holes to mount my Z axis rails. I put the tap in my drill press and turned the chuck by hand, to make sure the holes are perpendicular.

    After the first 2 or 3, I started to use the drill press motor to turn the tap. It was going good, until I got too aggressive, and stripped 2 holes. The tap is 4mm, and acts like a router bit if you're not careful) Then went back to the hand method to finish the rest. I'll use some JB weld to repair the 2 stripped holes. The 26 good holes seem to be very strong, and I can get the rails very tight. With a little loctite, they won't be going anywhere.

    This thing is going to be heavy!. With the rails attached, the 9x15" plywood plate weighs about 10 lbs.

    I'm guessing the Y axis carriage with both Z's will end up between 100-125lbs.

    Also got some more epoxy in, so I should be set for a while. I got some faster hardener to speed up cure times in the cold garage.

    I'm hoping I'll get a 4 day weekend, so I can get this assembled.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Z²-y-assembly-022-jpg   Z²-y-assembly-024-jpg   Z²-y-assembly-025-jpg  
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  11. #51
    Member JerryBurks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    998
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Maybe too late for your build...but I had the same tapping issue getting the rails attached to the aluminum extrusions. I ended up using a battery hand drill where you can adjust the torque (I have the Milwaukee M12 Lithium). Turned out pretty good. The torque limiter prevents me from breaking the bit or stripping the hole but still saves a lot of elbow grease (or wrist grease) for turning the tap.

    For that matter I found a spiral fluted tap more forgiving than the straight one (in aluminum, that is....).



  12. #52
    Member Khalid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Pakistan
    Posts
    3498
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    hi Ger,
    Looking very good and sturdy.. Your Pace is a bit slow in this build... What is your target completion date for this project.

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  13. #53
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Khalid View Post
    hi Ger,
    Looking very good and sturdy.. Your Pace is a bit slow in this build... What is your target completion date for this project.
    Maybe 12-18 months? My free time is rather limited right now.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  14. #54
    Member Khalid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Pakistan
    Posts
    3498
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
    Maybe 12-18 months? My free time is rather limited right now.
    As far as i know, the CAD designing of Twin spindle router took 1 year. So 3-year from design to finish product ..

    Hmmm.. How can i say that "I can't wait to see the machine running"... We have to wait for 18months ...
    Keep up the good work

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  15. #55
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I started the design thread 4 years ago. And only half of the CAD work is done. But I am doing the most complicated part first, so it should go faster once the Y and Z axis are done.

    I actually built 2 Z axis a year ago, but didn't like them and redesigned the whole thing.

    I'm also currently building a 40"x84" vacuum frame press. I need it to make the laminated panels for the gantry beam.
    I built a torsion box, them used our 5x12 router at work to get it perfectly flat. I'm working on the base right now.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  16. #56
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default 2 Steps Forward, 2 Steps Back

    I needed some threaded inserts to mount the Y axis beltdrive assembly. However, I don't like inserts a whole lot, and the panel wasn't think enough for them anyway.

    I originally was going to epoxy two pieces of steel angle the full height of the back panel to add stiffness. But I really wanted a thicker material for more threads.
    By adding some plywood stiffeners, I didn't need the full length. So I decided to use some 3/8"x3/4" steel bars. I didn't want to order them and wait, so I went to HD, got some 3/16"x3/4", and epoxied two pieces together to get the 3/8" thickness.

    Once cured, I attached them to the panel with double sided tape, and marked the hole locations on the drill press with a 1/4" bit through the 1/4" holes that were in the plate. Then I pulled them off, drilled (#7) and tapped them 1/4-20. I then epoxy and nylon screws to mount them to the back of the panel. I waxed the screws, and after the epoxy cured overnight, the screws came right out.
    The threads line up perfectly, and will be plenty strong. There may be up to 150 lbs of force on them, so this was important.


    I also repaired my damage rail mounting threads. However, I had to do it twice. After the JB Weld cured, I pulled out the waxed bolts. I think one wasn't waxed good enough, though, and it didn't come out cleanly. I decided to run the tap in to clean it up, and promptly stripped it again. So, this time, I bored the hole a bit larger at the top, to hold more JB Weld. The bottom of the threads were still good, so I waxed and oiled two bolts, and screwed them in to the bottom. I then filled the counterbore with JB Weld, and warmed it with a heat gun so it would get thinner and run down into the hole better. I pulled the bolts out this morning, and the seem to be much better.

    However, this experience leaves me questioning the strength of the tapped phenolic holes.
    I thought of a much better way that I could have done this, but it's to late now.
    Before applying the phenolic, I filled pockets with thick epoxy for the tapped holes. What I should have done, was insert steel plugs into the holes. Then I could have drilled and tapped into the steel, instead of into the epoxy. It would have cost about $5, and I wouldn't have any issues. I'll be doing the X and Y rails this way for sure.
    Now, I think the threads are strong enough, BUT, if I have a problem down the road, I won't have an easy way to repair them.

    So I have 2 options.

    1) drill and insert a steel plug, then drill and tap the 27 holes again. Probably 4-5 hours of tapping.

    2) I found some M4 threaded brass hex standoffs at Mouser. I can drill an oversize hole, bolt the rails on with the standoffs, then fill the void with epoxy to lock the standoffs in place. The brass threads won't be as strong as the steel, but I won't have to spend 5 hours tapping. Well worth the $12. And while I'm ordering from Mouser, I'll get the parts for more electronic home switches.

    I was all ready to start assembly, but this preemptive repair will set me back a week or two.

    On the bright side, I have a 4 day weekend to work on my vacuum press base. It was originally going to be finished in exotic veneers and hardwoods, but now it's going to be painted in silver hammered paint. This will probably save me 2 months of work. Here's a drawing of what it will look like.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Z²-y-assembly-029-jpg   Z²-y-assembly-026-jpg   Z²-y-assembly-027-jpg   Z²-vacpress-jpg  

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  17. #57
    Registered Zygoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    331
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    they sell steel threaded inserts. just get some of those and you should be set. they are normally called stand offs. you can get them round or hex (outside) and whatever size or thread you want internal. and just about any length.

    McMaster-Carr

    also available at just about any hardware store.



  18. #58
    Member ger21's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Shelby Township
    Posts
    35538
    Downloads
    1
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    I need 27, and McMaster wants about $1.75 each for the hex brass, which I can get for .45¢ at Mouser. Aluminum is 70¢

    I haven't found any round with M4 threads.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  19. #59
    Registered Zygoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    331
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    digikey has aluminum ones as low as .40c

    local hardware places often let you buy it by the box, which cost less.

    just trying to give you some options. brass would scare me a little, its soo soft.



  20. #60
    Registered
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    2392
    Downloads
    0
    Uploads
    0

    Default

    Ger21- That epoxy will get harder over time, and after a few weeks will be harder than it is now. But it will never get that hard unless it has been through an elevated temp post cure process (heat to about 70'C for about 12 hours, then 45'C for a few days).

    My CNC machine has 3 epoxy handwheels I cast to use on the stepper shafts. Two were post cured properly and are fairly hard and the 4mm grub screw has held fine. The third wheel was the last and (being in a rush) I didn't bother post curing it. The wheel has warped in shape from the tension of the grub screw and the 4mm grub screw stripped after a while (as the epoxy was lot softer). Now it has a 5mm grub screw and I treat it gently.

    4mm is a very fine thread for semi-cured epoxy! I would be worried about the threads failing. The brass inserts might be a good choice, or maybe those 4-spiked steel nuts they use in wooden speaker cabinets that go in the other side?



Page 3 of 14 FirstFirst 12345613 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


About CNCzone.com

    We are the largest and most active discussion forum for manufacturing industry. The site is 100% free to join and use, so join today!

Follow us on


Our Brands

Z²

Z²