My 8020 router build

[motopreserve]

Thanks Pippin. I don't want to hijack this fine thread - I'll start my own soon. Hopefully you can fill me in on what you consider a properly designed machine. I'm all ears - and would love some guidance as I get closer to putting ideas in CAD.

The advantages to dual setup have had my eye for the better part of the pre-design phase, but I've appreciated Rick's work here, so was curious about his decision making to go with single screw/motor. Work material maybe a key component?

[RicknBeachcrest]

Scott, I'm glad you found this build thread useful. I know when I started this journey, it was a bit daunting (to say the least). I spent many months just reading this forum, copy and pasting bits and pieces into my CNC build notes. With all the help from people on this forum, I was able to get a pretty respectable machine put together. I tried to put all my experiences down, so as to pay back for all the help I received.

Only having one motor on the Y axis has given me absolutely no problems. I think the need for two motors, comes down to two things; the length of your gantry and the type of material you will be cutting. My planned material to machine is wood and wood is a heck of a lot easier to machine than aluminum.

If I were planning to machine aluminum, there would be no doubt about it, two motors on the Y axis. Yes it's a bit more complicated and expensive than just one motor, but people have successfully done it before.

Good luck with your build and don't hesitate to ask questions. This is a great forum with lots of experience.

[motopreserve]

Rick,

Thanks so much for the info and encouragement. Like you, I have been reading everything I could find - but often that leads to even more questions. Just need to dedicate the time to sift through the info/data/opinions and formulate a plan, which I have been doing in the past month. Daunting is right! That's why I have not even attempted to put pen to paper (or I should say mouse to CAD) before I could digest all the info I could find.

I have built 1 small moving table, polycarbonate wheel based CNC already, and while is has cut some nice parts for me, the lack of rigidity and need for larger work area has led me down this path.

I had been leaning toward the dual set-up for the exact reasons you and Pippin suggest, and both of you have helped solidify that. I too will be documenting my experiences in the hope that others might benefit in the future. The info found on this site has been amazing, and I think with the help of the forum members (and threads like this one) I should be able to build a machine that will be rigid and satisfy my needs.

One decision I had made early in the process was the rough size/work area I would need, and to achieve that with quality linear rails and blocks - knowing that it might take some time to find the right deals on eBay. My first THK HSR rails and blocks arrived yesterday (pleasantly surprised at how heavy/rock solid they are!), so the work begins in earnest to get this design sorted and built.

Really appreciate the time you have spent to share your experiences, and I am sure I will call on this thread for help as I continue my own journey.

Scott

[rjteeter]

I see you mentioned that you are using 280oz steppers; which specifically are you using and what are you using for a power supply?

[RicknBeachcrest]

I see you mentioned that you are using 280oz steppers; which specifically are you using and what are you using for a power supply?

I got the steppers through Gecko when I purchased the G540. They were manufactured by Lin Engineering.
Stepper Motors By Lin Engineering - The Step Motor Specialists
The model number is G723-280-4. I don't think they manufacture these anymore. They are great steppers in my opinion. They don't get real hot as I have read that some steppers do.

Here is a link where they have been mentioned in this forum.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...teppers-3.html

For the power supply, I am using a 48v switching ps. I've attached a spec sheet. I've got an amp meter between the power supply and the G540. The g540 with all the steppers are generally pulling about 1.5 to 2 amps during normal operation.

[RicknBeachcrest]

According to the Super PID, I have over 43 hours of run time on the router and the box that I use to collect the dust and chips needed to be emptied (first time). The plexi window allows me to monitor the fullness of the box. I figure there is a little over 4.8 gal capacity in the box and I probably had 4 1/2 gallons of chips and dust.

So after emptying the box, I thought I would check the shop vac to see how much got past the Dust Deputy. You can see the picture below (just a little dust on the sides). I highly recommend the Dust Deputy (and no, I have no connection with them, other than being a satisfied customer).

Nice to have things work the way you planned.

Rick

[jim_r53]

Wow! That is amazing! I have been wondering how it would perform! For those looking for Rick's post on building this dust collection box with the Dust Deputy it is http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc-wo...ml#post1434612 - while the comment says it is not "glamorous" it does seem elegant in it's simplicity.

[RicknBeachcrest]

Wow! That is amazing! I have been wondering how it would perform! For those looking for Rick's post on building this dust collection box with the Dust Deputy it is http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc-wo...ml#post1434612 - while the comment says it is not "glamorous" it does seem elegant in it's simplicity.

Thanks for the kind words Jim,
I liked this design so much, I made another for the shop. It is used primarily for the surface sander, which makes lots of fine dust. I've got a 15' hose that I can use to do some vacuuming in other parts of the shop, like behind the radial arm saw.

The capacity of this collection box is about 18 gallons and it lowers onto a little dolly when I need to empty it, so I can just wheel it out of the corner. I've had to empty it once since I built it. I was constantly having to clean the filter in the shop vac before the addition of the Dust Deputy.

Also that is a Fein vacuum that has a auto feature that turns itself on when the power on the surface sander is turned on. Saves a bunch of bending over.

Rick

[RicknBeachcrest]

These DIY CNC's are never really finished. There is always room for improvements. My latest improvement is a new spoil board. The old one was used, but still had some life left in it. It gave me an idea of the direction I wanted to move towards.

The spoil board is my "go to" work holding method. I have a couple of others, but attaching the work piece to the spoil board is by far the one I use the most. The attachment method that I have evolved uses 10-32 T-Nuts, mounted to the bottom of the spoil board and attaches a hold down on the top. This appears in numerous places in this build log. The method I used with the first board was to mount a new t-Nut in the location that would hold down the piece I was working on at the time. Needless to say, a very random pattern evolved. Also the fence on the first spoil board was glued to it, so once the spoil board was a goner, so was the fence.


The objective for the new one was to have as few T-Nuts as possible, yet still allow attachment of any possible work piece. I tried a few different spacing, but I kept coming up with more T-Nuts than I really wanted. And then it hit me, the spacing does not need to be uniform. Smaller pieces would be mounted closer to 0,0 and larger pieces would be mounted further away.

The spacing I used was 2" from the first row, column to the second, and then 2 1/2" to the third row, column, then 3" to the forth, then 3 1/2" to the next and then 4" to the last.

The fence is mounted to a row of T-Nuts, so it can be moved to the next board. Also it allows me to align it to the Y axis. It is within 3 or 4 thou.

So far I really like it.



The T-Nut pattern was laid out in CAD and then to CAM for the counter sink for the T-Nut. Hopefully this idea will work out and I can use this G-code to cut the next spoil board.

Rick

[motopreserve]

That looks great! And a good idea to space the holes at increments you determined would be best for your work. Seems like everyone could figure out what workpiece sizes they most often utilize and design the pattern from there.

Well done!

[RicknBeachcrest]

That looks great! And a good idea to space the holes at increments you determined would be best for your work. Seems like everyone could figure out what workpiece sizes they most often utilize and design the pattern from there.

Well done!

Thanks.

These things kind of sort them self out over time.