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Thread: MountainCrafts Router/Plasma Build Thread

  1. #37
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    Many of Ahren's parts have downloadable drawings in DXF, PDF and CAD models on his web site.

    Is it something that one of us can help with?

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  2. #38
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    I need to know how far the motor shaft on the 640 oz stepper he sells protrudes past the bottom of the Z axis mounting plate.... I'm also needing to know how much of a gap should be between the end of the motor shaft and the Z screw (inside the helical coupling).. This information is necessary for me to know how long to cut the 4" flat bar...

    If I had the motor, it would be a no brainer... but I thought it would be nice to work on that stuff while waiting to get the moola together, so that it's out of the way and the work doesn't all stack up at once...

    It's not a huge deal...

    The other thing I'd like to know, is the difference between the MeanWell switching power supply he said he could supply me (not listed yet on their website,but I'm pretty sure he's talking about the SE-100-48) and the Torroidial Power Supplies from Keling... Is one better than the other? More reliable? Is the main difference just the enclosure and fan on the meanwell?

    The meanwell is considerably more expensive, but may be worth it... I need some 'sales' help here...

    There is zero info on his website regarding the motors other than the voltage, current, and in oz rating.. torque curves, drawings/dimensions and all that are non-existent...

    I like the idea of his stuff being plug and play, but I'd really like some more info on it all... It's pretty vague... and the money for this stuff adds up.... I don't mind paying the slight markup for all this stuff that he charges, as I think it's all quite reasonable, but a little hand holding is expected in return...

    Also, one thing I haven't asked him yet, but I need to know, is the BOB... what do I need? What is recommended with his system?...

    I will be using the super-PID controller for the router listed elsewhere here.. I will be needing zeroing/homing switches, E stops, tach input, etc... there may be other inputs I am not yet aware of that I need.. AFAIK, the BOB is the interface for all of this stuff, and I need to select one that has all the ins/outs required...

    Finally, the difference between the Gecko 201x and 203V? I think it is just 'protection'.. Is the extra 35 bucks worth it? are the bulletproof claims exaggerations? Are there other differences than the protection? Is this something I should not worry about and just buy the cheaper 201x drivers?

    Last edited by Mountaincraft; 04-04-2011 at 09:03 PM.
    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  3. #39
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    Damn! Just went and looked on his website at that motor again, and now I see a link for the motor spec sheet (slaps forehead).. I don't know if it was always there and I missed it (like 12 times), or if it was added since I e-mailed him.. but it's there now...

    If that link has been there the whole time, I've wasted two weeks or more! DOH!

    Anyways, I could use some help on the rest of these questions if anyone can add insight.. especially about the BOB...

    Last edited by Mountaincraft; 04-04-2011 at 09:23 PM.
    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  4. #40
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    When the spec sheet says "2 phase" that means it can be hooked up bi-polar, correct?

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  5. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountaincraft View Post
    When the spec sheet says "2 phase" that means it can be hooked up bi-polar, correct?
    If it has 4 or 8 wires, then it's bipolar.

    And yes, the main difference between the G201X and G203V is the protection. And yes, the G203V is bulletproof.

    If you wire a G201 wrong, or a motor wire comes loose, it'll die an instant death. It's up to you to decide is the extra $35 is worth it.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

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    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  6. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountaincraft View Post
    I need to know how far the motor shaft on the 640 oz stepper he sells protrudes past the bottom of the Z axis mounting plate.... I'm also needing to know how much of a gap should be between the end of the motor shaft and the Z screw (inside the helical coupling).. This information is necessary for me to know how long to cut the 4" flat bar...

    If I had the motor, it would be a no brainer... but I thought it would be nice to work on that stuff while waiting to get the moola together, so that it's out of the way and the work doesn't all stack up at once...

    It's not a huge deal...

    The other thing I'd like to know, is the difference between the MeanWell switching power supply he said he could supply me (not listed yet on their website,but I'm pretty sure he's talking about the SE-100-48) and the Torroidial Power Supplies from Keling... Is one better than the other? More reliable? Is the main difference just the enclosure and fan on the meanwell?

    The meanwell is considerably more expensive, but may be worth it... I need some 'sales' help here...

    There is zero info on his website regarding the motors other than the voltage, current, and in oz rating.. torque curves, drawings/dimensions and all that are non-existent...

    I like the idea of his stuff being plug and play, but I'd really like some more info on it all... It's pretty vague... and the money for this stuff adds up.... I don't mind paying the slight markup for all this stuff that he charges, as I think it's all quite reasonable, but a little hand holding is expected in return...

    Also, one thing I haven't asked him yet, but I need to know, is the BOB... what do I need? What is recommended with his system?...

    I will be using the super-PID controller for the router listed elsewhere here.. I will be needing zeroing/homing switches, E stops, tach input, etc... there may be other inputs I am not yet aware of that I need.. AFAIK, the BOB is the interface for all of this stuff, and I need to select one that has all the ins/outs required...

    Finally, the difference between the Gecko 201x and 203V? I think it is just 'protection'.. Is the extra 35 bucks worth it? are the bulletproof claims exaggerations? Are there other differences than the protection? Is this something I should not worry about and just buy the cheaper 201x drivers?
    I don't have the 640 oz motors either, so can't help with that one.

    I have the Meanwell 48vdc 12.5 amp regulated PSU that he sells with the G540 kits. It is a more complicated design with many more parts in it. The 48vdc is regulated to within 5% or so. They appear to be very well made but I have only test run the G540 kit so far. I have the Keling 72vdc 20 amp linear toroidal PSU also. The main output is not regulated, but some of the Keling models also have a 5vdc and/or 12vdc regulated output at around one amp output. Stepper motors run fine on unregulated PSUs. The voltage goes down in a predictable manner as the current draw goes up. I use the Meanwell PSU on the G540 and the Keling PSU on the four G203V drives and Keling 495 oz motors on my 12' machine. The Keling PSU will need to have a fan(s) in the cabinet that you mount it in. The Meanwell has one in it, but you still need a fan to cool the Gecko drives you use.

    Yeah, it would help to have a dimensioned drawing for the motors from the maker of the motor.

    If you are using a G540 the BOB is built in. The G201 and G203V will need a separate BOB. I use a CNC4PC C11G board with my G203Vs. It is a version specifically for the Gecko drives and has opto isolation on the parallel port pins. I have two of the S-PID boards and for the testing I did with them I didn't hook up all the fancy controls that the others are doing now. The C11G BOB should handle all of it though.

    "Bullet proof" is a relative term used in electronics to mean that they have provided input/output protection circuits that should handle most of the normal situations without damage. Abnormal situations beyond their control can still damage them though. Lightning surges, fire, .50 BMG rounds, etc are not covered under any reasonable warranty.

    I'm not so familiar with the newer G201x, but if Gecko has lowered the cost by removing some of the protections and current /voltage capacity I would pay the extra cost for the venerable old G203V again, IMHO. The G203V is a 7 amp capacity 80vdc drive. My motors are rated 3.5 amp, so I have lots of margin.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  7. #43
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    Who sells that CNC4PC C11G BOB?
    and what does it cost?

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  8. #44
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    Never mind, found it... $109.. lots of ins/outs

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  9. #45
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    Can anyone tell me which side faces up (towards motor), and which down (towards screw)?

    The large recess (perhaps for a gear?) would lend be to think that side would face away from the motor.. yet that same side has larger recesses than the mounting bolt shaft on the same side (I presume this is for the 5/16" bolt allen head) lends me to think that side faces up..

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  10. #46
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    I think the motor has a protruding shoulder at the shaft end, which would explain the recess...

    Now all I need to know, is how much gap should there be between the motor shaft and the lead screw (inside the helical coupling)..

    [URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
    [U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]


  11. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountaincraft View Post

    Can anyone tell me which side faces up (towards motor), and which down (towards screw)?

    The large recess (perhaps for a gear?) would lend be to think that side would face away from the motor.. yet that same side has larger recesses than the mounting bolt shaft on the same side (I presume this is for the 5/16" bolt allen head) lends me to think that side faces up..

    My guess is that the motor mounts to the flat side of the plate and the recess on the other side allows a gear to mount closer to the motor bearing than it would be if the plate was flat on both sides. All of my motors are NEMA 23.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  12. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountaincraft View Post
    I think the motor has a protruding shoulder at the shaft end, which would explain the recess...

    Now all I need to know, is how much gap should there be between the motor shaft and the lead screw (inside the helical coupling)..
    The helical coupler shouldn't need much of a gap and it isn't critical as long as the motor shaft isn't rubbing against the lead screw it will be ok.

    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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