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  1. #21
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    C1:

    As I installed EMC2 from a CD, Firefox bookmarks are now in the ether. I can remember the important ones though ...CNC Zone ... What else do I need to know!

    I will look for auto zero in new version of EMC2 and let you know.

    As for MACH3, I hired someone to set it up. Designing is my forte; high detail activities elude me at times. The Droid needs to be completed so there is product to $ell and services can be $old. This ain't a hobby anymore!



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    Quote Originally Posted by zool View Post
    C1:

    As I installed EMC2 from a CD, Firefox bookmarks are now in the ether. I can remember the important ones though ...CNC Zone ... What else do I need to know!

    I will look for auto zero in new version of EMC2 and let you know.

    As for MACH3, I hired someone to set it up. Designing is my forte; high detail activities elude me at times. The Droid needs to be completed so there is product to $ell and services can be $old. This ain't a hobby anymore!
    There is an EMC2 wiki site, and the linuxcnc.org site where you may find something about the auto zero thing. I would be surprised if there isn't one available. Ask about it over in the Opensource forum here on the Zone. I just haven't paid any attention to them while I was more actively using EMC2. I know that there are scripts for a lot of things to make things work better or to do special jobs.


    CarveOne

    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


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    Tool computer, Rockcliff controller, stepper motors up to Industrial Hobbies in New Britian CT. IH CNC Mills & Machinery - Made in the USA

    Tommy fixed MACH3 up and everything works. Don't quite understand what he did, though wrote all settings down.

    The CNC milling machines they make are AMAZING. Makes any milling machine I've every seen look out of date, flimsy and weird. The method and size of the two plate that hold the held on is almost twice the size of one on a Bridgeport.

    Got some great ideas about using proximity switches for limit switches and homing switches [only takes three switches], as well as a way of wiring e-stops that is unique ... I've never seen anything like it ... but then again, than again .. I haven't seen much.

    Bottom line: Back on track.



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    Quote Originally Posted by zool View Post
    Tool computer, Rockcliff controller, stepper motors up to Industrial Hobbies in New Britian CT. IH CNC Mills & Machinery - Made in the USA

    Tommy fixed MACH3 up and everything works. Don't quite understand what he did, though wrote all settings down.

    The CNC milling machines they make are AMAZING. Makes any milling machine I've every seen look out of date, flimsy and weird. The method and size of the two plate that hold the held on is almost twice the size of one on a Bridgeport.

    Got some great ideas about using proximity switches for limit switches and homing switches [only takes three switches], as well as a way of wiring e-stops that is unique ... I've never seen anything like it ... but then again, than again .. I haven't seen much.

    Bottom line: Back on track.
    Dang those machines are NICE... wish I had one right now!



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    Default IH Mills

    Louie:

    Their attention to detail with the base, the mechanical portion, the electrical portion and the electronics portion blows me away. The electronics cabinet and all the wiring is just so well done.


    Seeing three mills of their own they use in production compared to the three that are being built now, it is really amazing to see the evolution of the design and products they use. And no corners cut either..

    I am only familiar with Bridgeports, but looking at the IH mills, the difference is so profound.

    Not only did Tommy get MACH working, but I left with ideas for my machine, of which proximately switches for limits switches and homing switches is the best. Three switches instead of nine!!!!



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    After a bit of a hiatus dealing with electronics and software, I headed back into the studio to finish assembling the base, and rails and carriages for the Shop Droid.

    There is no doubt that the 8020 aluminum parts and pieces are first-class; however, if I ever build another CNC the base will be welded steel. Why? Simple, over 500 nut-and-bolts sets, and I ain't done yet.

    My rough estimate is that the cost of extruded aluminum versus steel is about equal, if one includes the cost of their labor at a reasonable amount. Placing and then tightening all those nut-and-bolts is a tedious and mind numbing task. Though I must admit it is nice seeing it all done!

    The photographs prove, once again, that you can never own too many clamps.

    As I wanted everything to be as straight, joined at right angles and tight as possible, I approached the assembly of the base as if it were a large case piece of furniture, that is: Clamps in every direction that is possible. The photographs amply demonstrate my clamping prowess .. thank you very much.

    The base is all assembled, except for one cross piece that will be part of the system to clamp pieces of lumber vertically so traditional dovetails and box-joints can be cut with the CNC rather than using a Join-Tech system which I do now.

    A note on the Join-Tech system [http://www.jointech.com/]: It is a great system: easy to use after the normal bit of experimenting; easy to setup; accurate to 1/32-inch; and joints are consistent once the particular joint is setup.

    Back to the Shop Droid: Before I quit for the evening, I laid out the Shop Droid base, rails and carriages. It is nice to finally see them in place rather than laying on the floor.

    Tomorrow the Shop Droid portion of the CNC will be assembled and bolted in place.

    When this is done the next task is picking up; putting clamps and tools away; and cleaning before the next phase, which is fitted and cutting the wiring; tinning the ends of the wires; then laying everything out neatly, and, finally, making the conduits and carriers for the wiring.

    The computer, controller electronics, and software are all setup and operating.

    A splitter/separator is planned for the dust collector so it can stay in the corner where it is seen, yet be shared between the table saw, and other tools. The plan for the splitter/separator came from ShopNotes. I really hate sawdust!!!

    Who needs a Plan "B" when yer havin' this much fun!!

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2513a-jpg   ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2509a-jpg   ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2511a-jpg   ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2518a-jpg  

    ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2521a-jpg   ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2522a-jpg  


  7. #27
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    Default More Progress

    All the Shop Droid parts are on and attached.

    Tomorrow will be cleaning up the detritus thus far accumulated, then on to wiring and hooking up the electronics.

    And raising that shelf over the machine.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2525a-jpg  


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    Default Progress on Wiring, and some details for others to consider.

    More progress, and some details for others to consider.


    Started wiring and need a temporary place for the Rockcliff controller and the power supply, as well as a surge protector power outlet.

    If the Rockcliff controller and power supply got left sitting on a piece of plastic on the floor under the CNC, I would step on them, or trip over the power outlet. [My toast always lands jelly side down!]

    Therefore, to protect these, a piece of 1/4-inch plywood is mounted on two of the legs of the base. As the base is made out of 3030 t-slot, by mounting the plywood on the backside of the legs, the Rockcliff controller and the power supply, as well as the power outlet, are off the floor and have some protection from being hit as they are less than 3-inch in depth.

    Eventually the Rockcliff controller and the power supply, as well as the power outlet, plus the computer, are going in a box with filters and fans, but the CNC is need to make the box.

    And as I have a memory like a ... aaahhh .... Anyway, before I started wiring I marked the various lugs on the Rockcliff controller.

    After I pulled the wiring between the stepper motors and the Rockcliff controller to an appropriate length [more or less], the wire ends were tinned, and then both ends of the wires were tagged with the axis the wires are going to.

    To protect myself from myself even more, as the wire colors from the stepper motors do not match the wire colors on the wiring, the yellow wiring in the wiring bundle was wrapped with blue tape so all the colors match. After all, color coordination is an important aspect of the CNC world.

    Spades were installed to one end of the wiring. Again a Hollingsworth crimper was used to obtain good contact between the wire end and the spade in a consistent manner. Though the Hollingsworth crimpers are more expensive than the typical crimpers, not only is the resulting crimp from a Hollingsworth crimper much better, the process is much much faster. Attaching all 16 spades took less than 15-minutes, and no goofs.

    And one last detail. There are over 500 bolt-and-nut sets on the 3030 extruded aluminum t-slot base. Most of the gussets, brackets and plates need 8 bolt-and-nut sets to attach them to extrusions. As this is mindless work, and as my mind tends to wander normally, after each nut was tightened, a black mark was placed by it. Now at one glance, it is evident what is done. This is important as these bifocals seem to be out of focus more and more.

    Next is deciding how to keep the stepper motor to controller wiring out of harms way, and then wiring the stepper motors to the controller. Then attaching the computer to the Rockcliff controller, though as MACH is all ready set up, this step will provide instant gratification as the stepper motor will move without a fuss [in theory anyway].

    The pinion gears are not on the stepper motors, so there will be no movement, like the X-axis running the Z-axis into the too low shelf that has not been raised yet.

    Only have been working at assembling the components for the CNC in the afternoons and evenings. In the mornings I am learning CNC Tool Kit, gmax, GIMP, InkScape, CamBam, Free Mill, MESHLab, HyCAD, WinTopo, 3D Paysage, CrazyBump, Lithunwrap, plus beta testing the new version of D2nc. CNC Tool Kit and gmax are not difficult to learn, just more time consuming that most other design software [now I use Alibre Design Version 10 and SketchUp Pro version 6]. Identifying tools within and grasping the complexity of CNC Tool Kit and gmax are what takes the time. A printed out copy of Yohudi’s eBook and long uninterrupted time periods at a desk are best for this, plus, at least three different colors of highlighters and a notebook. [Yep, just like back in school!!]

    I am now on my second and third reading of several chapters of the eBook to identify concepts and interrelationships. By reading a printed copy of the eBook at a desk, rather than on the computer, really limits the distractions. By reading this way I have time to think about actually using the CNC Tool Kit; that is: What it means to me.”. This in turn has really help me see how versatile these programs are, and how creative this will allow a CNC users to be, especially if they have a rotary axis.

    I read the manuals while I do the laundry, so have not seemed to even been aggravating my dear wife. Too much.

    Danser jusqu'à la chute ....

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2526a-jpg   ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2532a-jpg   ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2528a-jpg   ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2529a-jpg  

    ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2531a-jpg   ShopDroid [custom sized]-pict2533a-jpg  


  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by zool View Post
    ...Got some great ideas about using proximity switches for limit switches and homing switches [only takes three switches], as well as a way of wiring e-stops that is unique ... I've never seen anything like it ... but then again, than again .. I haven't seen much.

    Bottom line: Back on track.
    Care to elaborate? I have my homing and limits on TWO input pins, although I am using 8 switches. This way I can square up my X and A (my two slaved axis).

    Barry



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    " ...Got some great ideas about using proximity switches for limit switches and homing switches [only takes three switches]"

    "Care to elaborate? I have my homing and limits on TWO input pins, although I am using 8 switches. This way I can square up my X and A (my two slaved axis)."

    ERROR on my part. I keep thinking of the Y-axis as one axis instead of two [Y-axis and slaved A-axis].

    It would take FOUR proximity switches. The proximity switch is mounted midway between the ends of each axis, and pins are positioned on the axes so they trips the switch.

    Brackets need to be fabricated to hold the switches and pins, and these brackets will be mounted via the slots in the extruded aluminum. This allows them to be movable so as to facilitate alignment.



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    Quote Originally Posted by zool View Post
    " ...Got some great ideas about using proximity switches for limit switches and homing switches [only takes three switches]"

    "Care to elaborate? I have my homing and limits on TWO input pins, although I am using 8 switches. This way I can square up my X and A (my two slaved axis)."

    ERROR on my part. I keep thinking of the Y-axis as one axis instead of two [Y-axis and slaved A-axis].

    It would take FOUR proximity switches. The proximity switch is mounted midway between the ends of each axis, and pins are positioned on the axes so they trips the switch.

    Brackets need to be fabricated to hold the switches and pins, and these brackets will be mounted via the slots in the extruded aluminum. This allows them to be movable so as to facilitate alignment.
    Looking great so far! So are you putting 4/5 axis head on this thing?



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    Quote Originally Posted by louieatienza View Post
    Looking great so far! So are you putting 4/5 axis head on this thing?

    Geezzz Louie, yer like someone tailgating ...

    First gotta get the 3-axis part going.

    Once that is done, then on to the rotary axis.

    Rotary axis drive is being built now. It will be mounted on the far left side of the table on a piece of 1040 aluminum extrusion so I can leave the rotary axis mechanisms in place. By putting it at the far left, I can position the center line of the rotary axis on the far left travel of the X-axis, so the center of the tool will be over the center line.

    Then... Yes. A B/C head from Colin Doughty: DoughtyDrive product b

    Table will be dropped and the X- and Z-axes redesigned, probably along the design of the MechSoft X- and Z-axes, so the Z-axis can have more travel, plus be more stable.

    Working with CNC Tool Kit now ... it is most intriguing. it takes a significant amount of effort, and after you've worked with it, the power of it becomes evident, and just pulls you in and along.

    But first I have to make some money to pay for what I have spent .. according to senior management!!



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    Zool, I've been looking at the pic in your post #57. I think your router is on the wrong side, ie: the IVT rail is mounted backwards. Is the offset in the shop droid design attachment points not meant to center the weight of the gantry router combo over the IVT V-Bearings? Any reason you did it this way? Am I missing something?

    Edit: Sorry it was post #27

    Last edited by NIC 77; 05-29-2011 at 03:40 AM. Reason: Mistake on post #


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    Looking good!.... Are you going to leave your Driver Board and Power Supply mounted up like that or place it inside of a case?..... Mine is still laying out, but intend to mounted it inside of the computer case soon!



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    Default Why the absence.

    I have spent three weeks, counting previous wasted time, trying to get the slaved A-stepper to operated synchronized with the Y-stepper. To no avail.

    With Ger21's gracious assistance, finally discovered it was a bad on-board parallel port, which I did not want to use in the first place, but ended up using as neither of the PCI add-on parallel port cards would work as I had been following the MACH3 tutorial on setup, which is wrong, as is everything that is in the manual about the correct address for an add-on card. No wonder there are so many question about this.

    Here is the whole thread: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/mach_s..._properly.html

    The following summarizes [this is the last entry in the above thread] what I have finally done about MACH3 and all its defects.


    No dice .. same problem.

    I am done with MACH3. To set up my first CNC I had to hire an electrical engineer who designs CNCs , and he has refused to work with me again as I was using MACH3 again. I hired someone to help with this one, all to no avail. I have wasted three-weeks of my precious time, which is missed production, on this issue.


    This is far far beyond a Windows issue. This is because MACH3 is badly coded, AND the manual is badly organized and written, AND all the tutorials are at best ambiguous, some downright misleading and wrong.


    Case in point: The tutorial on setup on the MACH3 site is flat out WRONG. It shows the address for parallel ports is a combination of three letters and numbers. In fact, as we found out, it is a combination of four letters and numbers for add-on parallel port cards. Of course both PCI parallel port cards would not work. I had installed these because I did not want to use the on-board parallel port; it is well known that they do not put out ample voltage.


    Another case in point: Trying to find information, IN ONE PLACE, on how to set up a slaved axis is impossible. I spent two days looking in various forums, and the "answers" are all over the board, and, obviously, even with your generous and expert help, none, nada, zip, not one works.


    Yet another case in point: All modern software provides some form of feedback rather than just not functioning or functioning inconsistently. MACH3 just cannot function as advertised and/or will not function consistently.


    A user should not have to guess how to configure a program as outlined in the manual so it functions as advertised. What is left is the frustration and time wasting of the systematic wild ass guess method that prevails to configure this sad piece of software. Forums are diversionary; they provide a false sense of "belonging" and nothing more, as in reality forums obscure the fact that MACH3 is a defective product.


    There is something fundamentally wrong with MACH3. Someplace along the way someone's ego, like Art's, got in the way and he could not admit he was in over his head and so he just threw code at the wall and hoped for the best. And forums by adding to the swirl of confusion that let him get away with it by their obscuring the issues of poor conceptualization; poor coding; poor writing; and lack of quality control.


    The Barker guy is in over his head as well. Ask him a tough question and no answer. Say something he does not like, and he and the geezers on the MACH3 forums flame away and drive people out. I experienced it first hand. Pathetic.


    Gerry, thanks for trying. You've been a real gentleman with all your kindness.


    Its just not worth any more of my precious time. The three weeks I wasted could have been better spent learning EMC2, which is what I am going to do now.



  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by zool View Post
    I have spent three weeks, counting previous wasted time, trying to get the slaved A-stepper to operated synchronized with the Y-stepper. To no avail.

    With Ger21's gracious assistance, finally discovered it was a bad on-board parallel port, which I did not want to use in the first place, but ended up using as neither of the PCI add-on parallel port cards would work as I had been following the MACH3 tutorial on setup, which is wrong, as is everything that is in the manual about the correct address for an add-on card. No wonder there are so many question about this.

    Here is the whole thread: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/mach_s..._properly.html

    The following summarizes [this is the last entry in the above thread] what I have finally done about MACH3 and all its defects.


    No dice .. same problem.

    I am done with MACH3. To set up my first CNC I had to hire an electrical engineer who designs CNCs , and he has refused to work with me again as I was using MACH3 again. I hired someone to help with this one, all to no avail. I have wasted three-weeks of my precious time, which is missed production, on this issue.


    This is far far beyond a Windows issue. This is because MACH3 is badly coded, AND the manual is badly organized and written, AND all the tutorials are at best ambiguous, some downright misleading and wrong.


    Case in point: The tutorial on setup on the MACH3 site is flat out WRONG. It shows the address for parallel ports is a combination of three letters and numbers. In fact, as we found out, it is a combination of four letters and numbers for add-on parallel port cards. Of course both PCI parallel port cards would not work. I had installed these because I did not want to use the on-board parallel port; it is well known that they do not put out ample voltage.


    Another case in point: Trying to find information, IN ONE PLACE, on how to set up a slaved axis is impossible. I spent two days looking in various forums, and the "answers" are all over the board, and, obviously, even with your generous and expert help, none, nada, zip, not one works.


    Yet another case in point: All modern software provides some form of feedback rather than just not functioning or functioning inconsistently. MACH3 just cannot function as advertised and/or will not function consistently.


    A user should not have to guess how to configure a program as outlined in the manual so it functions as advertised. What is left is the frustration and time wasting of the systematic wild ass guess method that prevails to configure this sad piece of software. Forums are diversionary; they provide a false sense of "belonging" and nothing more, as in reality forums obscure the fact that MACH3 is a defective product.


    There is something fundamentally wrong with MACH3. Someplace along the way someone's ego, like Art's, got in the way and he could not admit he was in over his head and so he just threw code at the wall and hoped for the best. And forums by adding to the swirl of confusion that let him get away with it by their obscuring the issues of poor conceptualization; poor coding; poor writing; and lack of quality control.


    The Barker guy is in over his head as well. Ask him a tough question and no answer. Say something he does not like, and he and the geezers on the MACH3 forums flame away and drive people out. I experienced it first hand. Pathetic.


    Gerry, thanks for trying. You've been a real gentleman with all your kindness.


    Its just not worth any more of my precious time. The three weeks I wasted could have been better spent learning EMC2, which is what I am going to do now.
    Doesn't CNC Router Parts or someone make a BOB that alleviates this problem, by doing it on the BOB itself?



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    Default Throwing good money after bad

    Quote Originally Posted by louieatienza View Post
    Doesn't CNC Router Parts or someone make a BOB that alleviates this problem, by doing it on the BOB itself?

    As always Louie, you are thoughtful and help, but buying another piece of equipment to overcome one of the many shortcomings of MACH3 is like throwing good money after bad.



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    Quote Originally Posted by zool View Post
    As always Louie, you are thoughtful and help, but buying another piece of equipment to overcome one of the many shortcomings of MACH3 is like throwing good money after bad.
    Doubling down on 20 is throwing good money after bad, unless you're counting cards! With the exponential combinations of computer/software/drive it is impossible to make a product that will work with every one of them. It's a miracle Windows even works at all, let alone Mach3 which earns 10^-10% of what Microsoft makes!



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    Had another go at it....with the same results.

    Completely uninstalled MACH..the entire directory on the C-drive, which deleted the XML file as well; the Pulse Engine was deleted in the Device Manager; cleaned up Windows Registry with CCleaner, even used MS Disk Cleaner and MS Defrag for good measure.

    Reinstalled the latest version and reconfigured this with parameters needed for the Shop Droid.

    Same problem.

    On the off chance there was a problem with stepper motor, switched the A-motor with the X-motor. A-motor works correctly when wired to X-axis output on controller board. X-motor does not work correctly when wired to A-axis output on controller board.

    Sending both controller boards back to Rockcliff to have them checked.

    That will give me time to build a computer for EMC2/LINUX and tinker with it. Might as well do something while loosing all this production time. Might even clean up the studio!!

    Also talked with the folks at FlashCut CNC. I am intrigued. Have to see how senior management reacts before I get too enamored.

    And Louie .. yer a provocateur if ever there was one....

    Just to dampen your spurious arguments: I have had few problems with Windows from Windows 95 on [did skip Windows ME though] .. even Vista was easy and I found it dependable once I cleaned a few things up. Have not used Windows 7 though .. Why should anyone as XP functions just fine. So does Windows 95 on my ancient IBM Think Pad which does word processing and spread sheets just fine. Remember WordPerfect version 5 and LOTUS 123!!!



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    I'm actually letting you off lightly... If I had a few beers I could be relentless!

    My comments on Windows were actually complimentary! I actually had few problems with ME, and it was a necessity at the time if you wanted the best gaming performance. Vista was a turd. Even when I did get it running stable, it was a stone, performance wise. I should add that a buddy and I had a 15-year run when we would build computers with the solepurpose of beating each other's score in the latest version of 3DMark. Got too expensive!



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