Benchtop PRO 2436 Build

**dgage** · 12-13-2017, 03:36 PM

I’m with Don, I don’t have the expertise or patience to go to the level that Sparkness is going to but I’m definitely appreciative of him documenting his workflow and methods. Impressive.

With that said, I have a CNCRP Pro 5x10 with linear bearings and the CNCRP spindle. The system is incredibly accurate and repeatable for my subwoofer business. I wish I would have doubled (or more) the price and bought a “professional” CNC instead of a kit but that is only because I wish I had an auto tool changer. Other than that the CNCRP Pro machine has been great and has enabled my business to grow.

**sparkness** · 12-21-2017, 08:25 PM

Assembly time. First I'm bolting the cross members to the Y Axis's, not tightening them up yet. Router frame is together and sitting on it's stand. Now I am leveling the frame using my precision machinist level. this took about 45 minutes. The cross members are just bolted to the Y Axis and can move around quite a bit about .025" in 2 directions. Using my straight edge and indicator I got the cross members parallel and equal distant to the Y Axis's by tapping them up and down where needed, this will make the t slot table lay true. At the back of the router frame there is no cross member so I added 2 pieces of 40 x 40 extrusion cross members to make the frame more rigid. next I will install the Y motors and start checking the y axis for straightness in the x plane

**sparkness** · 12-22-2017, 12:28 PM

Cable management made easy. 8020 makes these nylon clips that snap into t slots. I taped and used eye bolts they expand the clip and lock in nice and tight.

**Ctbjdm** · 12-22-2017, 01:06 PM

That looks pretty cool - might want to check out 8020's cable tie mounting block - https://8020.net/shop/12316.html I used those and was very happy.

**sparkness** · 12-22-2017, 01:23 PM

I must have forgot about those, will have to order some

**dgage** · 12-22-2017, 10:30 PM

I bought the cable tie mounts from the local hardware warehouse, some glue remover, and some 3M VHB tape. I soaked the cable tie mounts to remove the cheap adhesive, washed them, and them attached them with VHB tape. Works really well. I haven't had any come unglued. Oh yeah, cleaned with some degreaser cleaner and then alcohol before attaching them.

**cvn72** · 12-25-2017, 03:02 AM

Hey sparkness,

i know now you are still in the process of putting your bench top pro together, but I was wondering what are your plans on upkeep and maintenance on your new cnc machine. I’m not sure if your delivery included detailed assembly and maintenance instructions such as what type of oil or grease to use on the precision linear rails and how often to apply.

**sparkness** · 12-25-2017, 08:54 AM

Not sure what grease, but will do a search and get a pinpoint grease gun and the proper zerk fittings for the bearing blocks, the assembly instructions did not include maintenance. I also am not following the instructions as I want to get everything square and true as I build

**dgage** · 12-25-2017, 07:52 PM

After research, this is what I ended up with and it has worked well for my 5x10 Pro.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYDZ8..._t1_B0002KKTFO
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Grease-.../dp/B004Y06YT8

**sparkness** · 12-27-2017, 08:46 PM

Continuing the build, motors attached and mach3 is running getting 340 IPM before motors loose steps. setting at 300 ipm. Now getting the Y Axis as straight as I can by shimming the cross members. Gantry is now together perpendicular and parallel withe the table.

**sparkness** · 01-17-2018, 09:27 PM

Build 99% complete, I squared the Y Axis to the X Axis , spindle square to the table in 2 planes. Now dialing in the motors and sensors. Here is my spoilboard, I made this using 96 T-nuts spaced 80mm apart this one of my first cuts, a lot of simulations before I pulled the trigger, all the holes came out correct. I need to order new screws to hold the board down to the slot table as I ordered the wrong length flanged button head screws, I will have em by friday. Next project is the dust boot. The t nut I chose is the split resistant style.I placed a piece of poster board .017" thick under the MDF as to not route into the extrusion.