Does the $100 include the cutoff saw?
Enquiring minds ...
Cheers
Roger
Oh.
I am reminded of the posting by a guy who bought a granite surface plate at an auction, for a very reasonable price of maybe a few hundred $.
It was only when he went to pick it up (ahem - so to speak!) after the auction that he found out that the $5000 Mitutoyo precision digital height gauge sitting on top of the slab was included in the deal . . .
Cheers
Roger
Bought a new cover for the ol truck today to transport material better and in the rain!!
I am still amazed at how much rain we get in Missouri lol
And that's why my "truck" is my wife's Honda Odyssey. Wood, drywall, mulch, dirt, concrete, pallets, etc, etc. I've hauled it all in her van and no worries about the weather. Only issue I have is 5x5 Baltic-birch plywood won't fit without cutting it in half. But I eventually plan to upgrade to a large van like the Nissan NV or Ford Transit or dare I say Mercedes (not likely due to repair costs)
David Gage
Deep Sea Sound
Hmmm. Where do you buy those?
David Gage
Deep Sea Sound
I would imagine an auction house probably could call fedex/ups they might do internal auctions
Don't know about the Nissan NV, but the Ford Transit is crap. The interior space and gas mileage and pep are a plus, but the vehicles are just not designed or produced for the rigors of construction. We have been slowing switching over from the no longer available Econoline Vans to Transits. Our oldest transit is from October 2014 - right around when they became available in US and we have around 50,000 miles on it so far. I know they were in use in Europe for at least several years before, but they just aren't tough vehicles. What idiot designer would put the door weatherstripping on the frame of a vehicle you step into and out of many times a day? Slide sheets of plywood over? The Econolines had all the rubber on the door. My weatherstripping was destroyed within a month, partially because of stepping on it and partially because of whatever glue they used failed and as soon as things got a little dusty (that never happens in a work truck) it was impossible to reseal. The main door is way too heavy for the hardware they used to attach it. The dealership has "adjusted" it three times but each time to get it to close and latch they had to loosen it to the point that the weatherstripping doesn't work and there are gaps. Regardless, we typically use these vehicles for as close to 200,000 miles as we can get and I am 99% certain the door hardware will have a major failure well before then. The window arrangement is dumb with a large fixed triangular section. I really miss reversing the econoline front vent windows for nice non-AC ventilation. Oh, and the fuel tank cover.... You have to open the driver side door to open the fuel cover. Unfortunately I live in the one state that you don't pump your own gas - you loose power by opening the door so if you were listing to the radio or forgot to roll down window (power only),.... plus I've smashed a few attendants hands in the door accidentally. The Europeans can have their pansy uniframe bodies, I'll take an inefficient box on a Ford Heavy Truck frame any day of the week.
I have one of these on my long bed Dodge: Pace Edwards Full Metal JackRabbit Tonneau Cover | Retractable Truck Bed Cover
It's awesome for keeping things covered and gone when you don't need it!
Hello workinwoods,
I just wanna know what size of linear rail, brand and type on the Latest Design CRP PRO4896.
Thanks.
Hello I am not sure but give Cory a call over at CNC Router Parts a Call 1-425-200-5037
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Looks like my phone is now butt replying on the forums now. Sorry.
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Workinwoods , thank you for sharing your CNC build . I'm very certain there's one in my future , although I may have to assemble a 4/4 Pro version , or kick my laser engraver out of my shop and purchace the 4/8 , as I'm really running out of room
It was very interesting seeing what to look out for as your build progressed . I'm debating to buy a jointer ( I have a planer) , so that I can make a wooden base for the machine that will be as straight and as solid as possible.
I live across the border in BC Canada , and am around an 8 hour drive to cncrouterparts, so I'd be debating on whether to drive there and pick it up myself .
Especially if I was to go with a 4/8 version , as I'd go with one piece extrusion on the Y axis if that option is open .
Not sure whether they have the linear rail available in one piece for the Y axis in the 4/8 Pro version?
I had one question . How does the spoil board secure to the table ? I see the holes you put in and all , but I'm not sure if your just putting self tapping metal screws into the extruded aluminum , or there's special retainers in the extrusion to secure to for that purpose
I don't actually know anything about CNC router tables , but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night
I had some additional T-Nut roll inserts from my CNCRP build and use those to screw into. Not saying this is the cheapest place to get them but this will give you an idea of what's available.
https://8020.net/catalog/category/vi...d/837/?cat=393
David Gage
Deep Sea Sound