2 broken arrows with 2100's

[slowlearner]

It has been a rough one tonight. I have 1 machine down with a "Drawbar Unclamped" error code. I have already checked the proximity switches and
and they are all working. Anybody have any ideas what to check next?
The other machine has an error code that I think is going to hurt my wallet
"Pendant Panel ID 108 is Invalid". Has anybody ever seen this one?
thanks guys

[mike_Kilroy]

Ouch!

You might ask Robert for help tomorrow morning; if he is not available when you call, just ask for someone else at Cincinnati tech support. I bet they would be happy to help out a good customer with multiple of their machines!

For name and number see post #16:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cincin...n_problem.html

[maver1ck]

Regarding the drawbar unclamped problem, you mention you checked the prox switches.

How? Did you put a screwdriver (or similar) in front of them and see the status change, or did you watch them as you clamped and unclamped the drawbar to see the status change? Did you check all 3 of them? The Arrows use a prox switch for Clamped with tool, unclamped, and clamped without tool.

If you pulled the sheetmetal cover from the spindle and can see all three of these switches changing state at the right times, I'd start by checking the connections on the drawbar unclamped prox, and making sure the input is getting to the control (either by checking for voltage at the plug, or viewing in ProgramWare (Pware)).

If you are not getting the signal to the control, look for bad connections/loose wires on the circuit.

If the signal is getting to the control, one other thing to check is how long the prox is on when you unclamp the tool. I think I remember this alarm once before on a machine that had a leak in the drawbar cylinder. Had enough power to make the prox, but couldn't hold the pressure so it slowly backed off, and would be off the switch by the time the carousel was in position for the spindle to come down onto the new tool. Rebuilt the cylinder to fix the problem.

[maver1ck]

A quick follow-up to the drawbar, after thinking about it, the cylinder issue I described was on a Hardinge VMC, but worth checking to see if something similar is happening here.

Regarding the pendant. On another thread, you mentioned you think it's in the cable between the pendant and the monitor. Although I've never seen this, it is easy to check. The cable disconnects from where it comes in under the monitor easily (remove the 4 small screws, and there will be a connector about 6" back), and if you open the pendant up, it is easy to follow the wires to ohm out each one and verify if you have a break somewhere.

I have had modest success at getting pendants to work again, but have had other people tell me they took an intermittent problem and made it permanent by opening them up. If you only open the case to check the wires, you shouldn't make it any worse. But then again, if it's a permanent fault already, you aren't going to be out any more money if you are buying a new one anyway.

[slowlearner]

Maver1ck and Mike, I was able to get 1 going last night. When I said I had checked the prox switches all that I had done was watch the leds on the
switches during movement. I talked to my repairman last night and was told
to not pay attention to the lights. Even though the lights may be turning on and off like they supposed too doesnt mean that voltage is getting through the switch. He then said he was absolutely sure that it was one of the switches. He then informed me that the other machine would be expensive to fix so dont even bother with it right now. Well as I proceeded to unscrew the 1st prox switch I noticed oil or old coolant had leaked inside of the cap, my little brain thought "short". Even though I doubted myself I decided to to start it up. It worked! It was 1:30 am this morning & I decided this was enough for 1 day.

Arrow #2
I have removed the cover from the pendant and didnt find anything loose or broken. After reassembly I did get this machine up 1 time. I am still thinking
short in cable but havent had time to check anything. I do thank you all for
your comments.

Have an awesome Monday,
Scott

[slowlearner]

I found a new pendant on the bay yesterday and it showed up a few minutes ago, plugged it in and we are running once again. Thanks to all,
Scott

[Bob Rudella]

The sensor lights are handy for adjusments but the best check is to look up the sensors on the schematic and find the D.I. module (digital input) they are connected to. It's at the top of the panel, the D.I. module has status lights for each of its 4 inputs. You can practice by finding the spindle marker input and you'll see the light go on/off as you spin the spindle by hand. Now you've checked the entire circuit in one shot.

[dbren]

Just another note from having the 'tool unclamp' problem... I finally dismantled the tool changer and found that the draw shaft had unscrewed itself from the air cylinder end so that the clamp would not travel to the clamped position. It had messed up the first couple rounds of threads, but a little die grinder work cleaned it up enough to rethread it with some thread lock and fixed the problem.