coolant relay problem Arrow 500

[scudzuki]

I wonder who might be able to shed some light on a problem I'm having that I'm afraid I may have made much worse.
I have an Arrow 500 with CT FNC control.
I have had a few instances where the coolant would not come on when turned on.
I thought it was because of evaporative loss (the machine sits unused for weeks) as it always started working after I dumped a few buckets of water in.
Last week it would not come on at all. Added water, nothing. Pulled the pump and cleaned the intake (there was a nice coat of skin covering the intake) and the armature turned freely.
Opened the cabinet and when the coolant was turned on, the relay made a pretty loud hum. Tried manually closing the contactor, nothing. Checked the 3 legs on the supply side, voltage seemed okay. Jumpered all 3 legs across the relay manually (fun doing that without getting electrocuted) and the pump came on, coolant pumped. Okay, the relay is cooked. Found a new old stock one on the internet, waited a week for it to arrive, went tonight to swap it out.

I was in a hurry so I did not notice that the new relay has a 24V coil (whoops) nor did I see the little accessory that snaps into the top of the relay (a diode module perhaps?). When I turned to coolant on I heard a pop from the cabinet, and of course the coolant did not come on. As I removed the relay again I realize that the coil was the wrong voltage and assumed that I cooked it. It turns out that is not the case, at least it is not open when tested with an ohm meter.

What really concerns me is that when I measure across the coil with a voltmeter when the coolant is turned on at the control, there is no voltage (where I assume there ought to be 120V). Adjacent relays measure 120V at the coils when energised. I have found this circuit in my schematic and it appears that there is a 2A fuse but I cannot find it in the panel. Wire 1725 in the schematic terminates at module rack 1 according to the drawing but I've yet to locate anything that looks like a fuse there. I'm really hoping all I cooked was a fuse as otherwise this could be a very expensive mistake.

[mallardfizz]

hello what is the electrical drawing number for your machine? its the bottom number on the silver label on the outside of the cabinet door - it starts 9120****
regards
mallardfizz

[scudzuki]

Say mallard would you PM me your email address? Your inbox here is full.
I will get out there this weekend to check the label.
Joe

[mallardfizz]

mallard@fizz58.freeserve.co.uk. i thought i had cleared my messages, will try it again.
regards
mallardfizz

[scudzuki]

Issue is resolved.
I found a new relay from a domestic (US) company for cheap. Less than $20 shipped in fact.
I went to install it last night with a friend who is an electrical controls wizard. He took one look at module rack 1 and pointed out that the components that I thought were capacitors were in fact fuses.
Replaced the relay and the blown fuse and coolant was pumping once again.

Joe