Coolant not turning off

[jbranting]

So after the hydraulic oil mess in the cabinet, M5 and M9 still aren't working. I carefully cleaned all the boards with electrical cleaner and reinstalled. Ive been looking through the manuals and can't find anything about where this is controlled. Any ideas? Its more annoying than anything, and it does waste a little bit of time, since i can go to MDI and turn on the spindle, turn off the coolant and data reset and get it to turn off. I just want to make sure everything is operating correctly. Thanks again everyone for the help so far.

for anyone who didn't read my last two threads.

Avenger 250T
Acramatic 850SX

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[jbranting]

Last night when i turned the control off the coolant stayed on until I flipped the breaker. That gives me a place to start for troubleshooting.

[Jim Dawson]

Almost sounds like the coolant contactor is sticky.

[jbranting]

Well I suppose I could have looked around a bit before posting. I found the problem pretty quickly this morning. This screw had backed out and was about to fall out, so the connector was pulling itself apart. Tightened it up and now the coolant is shutting off normally again

[Jim Dawson]

[jbranting]

Well there was one more problem. It worked for about 10 parts and then started staying on again. I remembered that I had a problem with the other connector at one point, so i unplugged it and took a look and the pins had pushed into the plug. What happened was inside the connector on the cable to the sump, the plastic backer plate that holds the pins up tight into the plug had come loose, quick fix though, all you have to do is disassemble the plug, get the pins pulled up tight and put some superglue on the backer and press it tight against the back side until it sets, let it dry and plug it back in. Just figured I'd throw that out there in case anyone else runs into this problem. Another sign this may need to be done is a coolant motor overload error, which i got after the 10 parts when i started the next, that was enough to jog my memory to check for the other problem.

[jbranting]

It just keeps coming, each time I addressed one of these problems the error got progressively less, from every part, to every other, to once every 10 parts. Well yesterday the coolant stopped completely so i shut it down and opened the back to unwelcome smell of burnt electrical. The contactor had split and separated, and the winding had gotten "a bit warm" as the plastic was melted around it as well as the winding insulation. Got a new contactor from a local supply house and still no coolant. Swapped out this I/O board

and now the coolant won't shut off at all Anyone one know a good supplier for boards?

[jbranting]

So here's a question, may be a bad idea, i can see that the chip wash pump is operating correctly, (which i have the two sumps tee'd together to get higher pressure at the tool). Would it be bad news to move the wire on the output board connector for the coolant sump to the chip wash so they both operate as chip wash sumps? Just to get me through till i either get one board rebuilt or a new one? Just trying to get through these past due parts without getting completely soaked in coolant or burning something else up.

[Jim Dawson]

That should work as long as the current draw of the contactor coils does not exceed the capacity of the relays. Just to be safe, maybe an intermediate relay with higher switching capacity would be in order. I can't read the part numbers on the relays on that board, but I'll bet you can get an equivalent relay from Digikey or Allied. Should be pretty easy to replace if you're a little bit handy with a soldering iron.

Kind of sounds like the contactor was sticking and the armature was not pulling in properly. That's what normally causes the coils to burn up.

[jbranting]

Thanks for the feedback again Jim. I'll do that. And...you called that one early on

[Jim Dawson]

I've been doing this for almost 50 years so I've pretty much seen it all You'll get it fixed up, no problem.

[meckardt55]

You need to use a meter and check both sides of each relay on the board. One side is the coil side and each relay should have about the same resistance and the other side is a normally open contact and should be the same resistance ( open ) infinite. The one that has low resistance ( a few ohms ) is the bad one. They can be purchased on the internet for a few dollars, get a few extra.

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