Odd size tooling shanks on J-cut router

[wizzardworks]

I have a j-cut 6090A bought new in 2008 with a water cooled spindle. I don't know what kw it is because I got NO DOCUMENTATION with the router. I have finally got the software operating and posted how I did it in the forum. The current problem is that the bore of the spring collet is .219" or approximately 5.5mm. This was determined by measuring the shank of the adapter supplied for use with the supplied engraving cutters. All the tooling I can locate has 1/4" or 1/2" shanks. I put a 1/4" shank cutter in the collet and only got 1-1/2 threads on the retaining nut and the taper of the collet was altered so as not to fit the spindle correctly. There was visable runout of the bit (.030?).
Surely someone uses bits larger than 1/8" shank in a machine which cuts a 600X900 mm area. There is a facing bit that comes with the router that cuts 24mm so I would think a 1/4" cove bit is not a peoblem.
What is needed is a spring collet with the external taper of the Chinese spindle and a 1/4" shank bore . Allternatively is there a recommended
supplier for a new spindle motor which uses 1/4" shank tooling.
wizzardworks

[Butterknife]

Wizzardworks,

You probably have either a 1.5 or 2.2kw spindle. If so, it probably uses either ER16 or ER20 collets. Measure the collet. An ER16 measures about 17mm across at the widest point and about 27mm long. An ER20 measures about 21mm across the widest point and 31mm long.

Once you determine which you have, order Imperial size collets from maritool.

I ordered a 2.2kw (3hp) spindle with ER20 collets on my JCut 6090A and I use 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" collets. I doubt you can use the 1/2" in ER16, but I'm sure you could use a 1/4".

Mine came with a 6mm collet. Too small for 1/4" shank tools. I had to buy them too. I went ahead and bought a couple of extra nuts too. That way I don't have to keep snapping the collets in and out of the nut every time I wanted to change from a 1/8" to 1/4" or vice versa.

Butterknife

[wizzardworks]

Originally Posted by Butterknife Wizzardworks, You probably have either a 1.5 or 2.2kw spindle. If so, it probably uses either ER16 or ER20 collets. Measure the collet. An ER16 measures about 17mm across at the widest point and about 27mm long. An ER20 measures about 21mm across the widest point and 31mm long. Once you determine which you have, order Imperial size collets from maritool. I ordered a 2.2kw (3hp) spindle with ER20 collets on my JCut 6090A and I use 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" collets. I doubt you can use the 1/2" in ER16, but I'm sure you could use a 1/4". Mine came with a 6mm collet. Too small for 1/4" shank tools. I had to buy them too. I went ahead and bought a couple of extra nuts too. That way I don't have to keep snapping the collets in and out of the nut every time I wanted to change from a 1/8" to 1/4" or vice versa. Butterknife

Butterknife, Thanks, the ER20 was the clue I needed. I found a sitecalled
Shopswarf that has dimensions for all collets including the ERseries.
I printed it off and will compare the dimensions with what I have. Just looking at it I think that it is an ER11. I have a set of much larger ER collets with an NTMB-40 adapter for the milling machine which I bought on E-bay so I checked and found they have the smaller sizes. I ordered two ER11-1/4" with a tir of .0001 that came to $36 with the shipping. After I get to the shop on monday to measure I can get some extra nuts once I am sure of the size.
wizzardworks

[Butterknife]

Glad to help you Wizardworks.

Butterknife

[wizzardworks]

Originally Posted by Butterknife Wizzardworks, You probably have either a 1.5 or 2.2kw spindle. If so, it probably uses either ER16 or ER20 collets. Measure the collet. An ER16 measures about 17mm across at the widest point and about 27mm long. An ER20 measures about 21mm across the widest point and 31mm long. Once you determine which you have, order Imperial size collets from maritool. I ordered a 2.2kw (3hp) spindle with ER20 collets on my JCut 6090A and I use 1/8", 1/4" and 1/2" collets. I doubt you can use the 1/2" in ER16, but I'm sure you could use a 1/4". Mine came with a 6mm collet. Too small for 1/4" shank tools. I had to buy them too. I went ahead and bought a couple of extra nuts too. That way I don't have to keep snapping the collets in and out of the nut every time I wanted to change from a 1/8" to 1/4" or vice versa. Butterknife

As it turns out the standard Jcut 6090A spindle is an ER-11 size
wizzardworks

[Butterknife]

Thanks for the information wizzardworks. I knew mine was an ER20 because I ordered it that way. Mine came with 2 collets, a 1/8" and a 6mm.

From Maritool I ordered a 1/4" and a 1/2" collet and a couple of cover nuts.

If you only have one cover nut and you want to change collets, you have to unscrew the nut, pull your tool out of the collet, snap out the collet, snap in the other collet and put in your new tool.

If you have another cover nut, you can already have the next collet snapped in.

You still have to unscrew the first and screw in the second, but you save wear and tear on the collets, and snapping them in and out does take some time.

I have my machine set up to do manual tool change. I run tool change files. When the g-code calls for the next tool, my machine moves forward for me to change the tool, I load the next tool and hit enter, it moves to my measure switch and measures the tool, then goes on cutting.

By having the other nut/collet ready I save lots of time for my cutting.

So you got your tool situation straightened out?

Butterknife

[wizzardworks]

Originally Posted by Butterknife Thanks for the information wizzardworks. I knew mine was an ER20 because I ordered it that way. Mine came with 2 collets, a 1/8" and a 6mm. From Maritool I ordered a 1/4" and a 1/2" collet and a couple of cover nuts. If you only have one cover nut and you want to change collets, you have to unscrew the nut, pull your tool out of the collet, snap out the collet, snap in the other collet and put in your new tool. If you have another cover nut, you can already have the next collet snapped in. You still have to unscrew the first and screw in the second, but you save wear and tear on the collets, and snapping them in and out does take some time. I have my machine set up to do manual tool change. I run tool change files. When the g-code calls for the next tool, my machine moves forward for me to change the tool, I load the next tool and hit enter, it moves to my measure switch and measures the tool, then goes on cutting. By having the other nut/collet ready I save lots of time for my cutting. So you got your tool situation straightened out? Butterknife

Butterknife, If you are not the sharpest knife in your drawer the rest of them must be down right lethal.
I have tooling installed and a spare collet and will be getting a few more sizes with nuts. I marked the machine travel today and after reading a post yesterday I measured my Z travel. I had assumed it was the same as the X and Y values. wrong again. While setting it I recorder the data and posted it here as an example.
I have 1 1"MDF spoilboard so I can screw the stock down to it. I used the spindle to drill holes at the ends of the X travel. Mineature wood screws are screwed into the holes so that the smoorh side of the shanks can position a piece of electrical terminal block mounting rail. Then I put a sharp pencil line across the spoil board on some masking tape
for an X axis rotation point for two sided machining. A jig made up to pilot the drilled mounting holes for the stock is used for repeatability. I then drilled the holes in the stock oversize and screwed it down and transfer marked the X axis on the stock. Now I have a refference at the center of the work area as well as a rotation axis square with the gantry travel.
wizzardworks