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Thread: Off line controller hookup

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    Default Off line controller hookup

    I've ordered a Chinese 3020 cnc router and a DDCSV off line controller. The router is advertised as USB, but the pictures show a parallel port so I'm not sure what I'm getting. Either can be wrong (or both). It doesn't matter because I'm not going to run it with a computer. I also ordered a break out board w/ optoisolators and a parallel (RS232, 25 pin) I/O port. I had initially intended to remove whatever break out board was in the Router controller and direct wire the DDSCV but I opted for the isolators on the break out board. In my research of boards, I noticed a seeming universality when looking at the wiring diagrams. Some even showed RS232 pin outs with the same wire labels. My question is, are the pinouts universal? If the router I get should have the RS232 connector, and I wire the DDSCV with a RS232 panel socket (using the pinouts from the router controller) will a simple parallel cable work? I realize that I'll have to rectify some power supply problems, but it never occurred to me that the off line controller might just plug into the router. I assumed I'd have to custom wire some sort of harness (based on RS232) to accommodate dozens of changes. I would appreciate any information from anyone who has done this conversion. I won't get anything for another week, so if there is anything else I might need I'll have time to find it.

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    Default Re: Off line controller hookup

    Not sure I understand this:
    but the pictures show a parallel port so I'm not sure what I'm getting. Either can be wrong (or both). It doesn't matter because I'm not going to run it with a computer. I also ordered a break out board w/ optoisolators and a parallel (RS232, 25 pin) I/O port.
    No such thing as a 25 pin RS232 Parallel port. Rs232 is a spefication for a single device to device serial and its SLOW compared to most other protocola, The 25 pin Rs232 port has been obsolete for over 15 years. A parallel port input is what is used on most cheap breakout boards. There are some USB and Ethernet BoB's but they need special drivers and software. Not sure what you are trying to do but if you are not using a computer to be the "controller" then I don't see the point of a Breakout card. You have to feed it parallel signals (not serial) and it simply "breask them out of the port to make them individually accessable. Most BoB have buffered lines for the input from the computer and buffered and /or optoisolated lines for the outputs back to the PC parallel port.



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    Default Re: Off line controller hookup

    I'm sorry if I got the designation,RS232, wrong. I knew I would need many wires to go from the off line (no computer) controller to all of the components in the router controller.(such as stepper drivers) I didn't want to have a bundle of wires wrapped with tape so I decided to use a 25 conductor cable that could be neatly plugged into each control box, after installing 25 pin panel connectors. I bought the BoB because, if the router came with a USB connection I would have to replace the USB BoB with a parallel BoB. If the router came with a parallel connection I may or may not need the BoB (it cost $8).



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    Default Re: Off line controller hookup

    Glad its your project and not mine. Sounds like you have it all figured out. Good luck.



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    Default Re: Off line controller hookup

    Well all the parts arrived. The router itself (3020 Chinese USB) looks to be of very high quality. It's all aluminum plate and extrusions and is quite rigid (and heavy). The gantry is very rigid. The DDCSV1.1 off line controller is also a quality looking and capable little package. The router did come with the USB controller but, to my dismay the, board is a fully integrated motherboard and didn't have individual stepper drivers. I had to order 3 stepper drivers but they weren't very expensive (3 drivers and the break out board cost about $30). The rewiring turned out to be much easier than I had anticipated. I was able to get the BoB, drivers and connectors, along with the original power supply, in the original router control box. I put the DDCSV in a modified project box that I had. I also added an outrigger power supply (12v and 5v salvaged from an old audio system) to the router control box. The DB25 cable and connectors worked fine to keep things neat and tidy.
    I haven't cut anything yet but it is up and running. I'm still learning how to use the 17 buttons on the panel, and the terrible English translations (or total lack of information) isn't helping. I have done a couple "air cuts" using G-code routines I'd drawn on CarbideCreate and it is very smooth and quiet (at least the motors, screws and XYZ action is). I was also able to watch the tool path simulation on the screen.
    The only real problem I'm having is zeroing the Z axis. The buttons are, of course, multi functional and the information is something less than specific or precise. This is mainly due to improper sentence structure and poor use of synonyms (out of context).
    If anyone has any tips on the Z axis zeroing, I'd appreciate the help. (I'm not talking about probing, just controlling wild up/down excursions). I'm sure I'm just not understanding what they mean because I have X and Y working without a problem. If you have any info or need any info : email : ejprusha@gmail.com

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Off line controller hookup-dscn2978-jpg   Off line controller hookup-dscn2984-jpg  


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    Default Re: Off line controller hookup

    hello, I have problems with the DDCSV1.1, it works perfect with stepper motors, but when placing servo driver with servomotors, for example when moving x + the motor moves and it stops correctly, but in x- it moves the x and y axis At the same time, when you stop pressing the x key, the y axis stops but the x axis does not continue to stop, the wiring is correct, has someone installed servos with this controller?



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    Default Re: Off line controller hookup

    I've not tried using servos. The stepper motors worked fine but I did have trouble with the DC spindle. I wanted to rout polycarbonate plastic but the plastic kept melting even at the lowest reliable speed. I put a tachometer on the spindle and found that the lowest reliable speed was 6000 rpm. Slower than that and the motor fluctuated wildly. The Carbide Create recommended speed was 1200 - 1500 (roughly). I tested the spindle motor with a common linear power supply and found that the motor ran smoothly from 0 to 10000 rpm and was completely quiet. I built a linear power supply using a 24V, 375 Watt transformer with a 10A full wave bridge. The steppers run very quietly now and until its cutting I can't tell if the spindle is running or not, it's so quiet. My theory was that the switching transformer, which I think uses pulse width modulators to get the different voltages (without a lot of heat), was a bad match for the PWM that controls the spindle. It's probably not a good Idea to stack too many PWMs in series. I'm sure, now, that was the problem because it works but also because of the quiet running motors (steppers and spindle). I can now run the spindle at 1500 rpm and the plastic cuts without melting. If you have the same switching power supply and the servo motors are plain DC ( and vibrate when running), then you might be experiencing PWM "incompatibility" similar to what I did.
    See new power supply.

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