OmioCNC report

[zeeflyboy]

within 0.1mm of square across the bed is all you could ever really hope for on this machine in my experience given the gantry straightness so I'd be happy with that.

Positional accuracy is fairly good but mine was out on the steps per mm - calibration yields something like 804 steps per mm rather than the 800 it should be (the leadshines I'm using are 4000 steps per rotation). Worth checking that if you haven't already

[Mmpie]

I think you can initially get it closer. In reference to my flat edge the Y was within 0.03 and the X 0.02 after bolt tightening. But when checking that against the holes themselves it was a bit further out. How long it stays like that is what I'm wondering.

I've never properly checked motor calibration, it's probably the next thing to do properly, but I have tested small movements now and then, quite a lot yesterday while trying to square it, and always found it to move exactly as it should. Also work was always bang to size in the Y whenever I used proper finishing passes, always out slightly in X. I assumed it needed calibrating but it could just have been the massive unevenness. I never actually measured the error before I starting correcting it but it must have been somewhere close to 3mm. Starting over the centre of a hole at one end of the X left me pretty much over the edge at the other side.


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[Mmpie]

Do your electric probes automatically compensate the coordinate system alignment or is it a chore to get that set up for different jobs?


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[dharmic]

They signal when they touch something. Anything more is up to programming or how you drive the MDI.

[Mmpie]

I get that, I guess I worded my question wrong. Maybe what I should have said is

Have you been using your probes a lot to set up new jobs and is it quicker/easier to get everything keyed in and locate/align each job?

I am thinking that 9 times out of 10 you would just use the code to move the probe to find the centre/edge, rather than jogging it manually, and still do any maths yourself?

I'm wondering specifically for aligning a workpiece after a flip. I like the look of the Haimer style analog probes but when the cheapest I can find is 2x the cost of electric ones... not so much


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[RCaffin]

I have electronic probes, wobbler probes, and others. By and large, I use a ground rod in the chuck and a feeler gauge.
For flipping a job I rely on locating pins.

Cheers

[dharmic]

At the moment I hardly use it at all, if I'm honest. I just got around obstacle 1 (needing to swap plugs and pin config polarity between it and the tool height probe). I still need to do a bunch more testing and work out the probe deflection offset better.

Mostly I touch off with whatever roughing tool I'm going to use (6mm two flute) until it catches the tip when I spin it and that's good enough.

Of some interest is Fusion 360's probing tool. Unfortunately the Mach3 post needs to be extended to cope with probing but, when I get that done (or extend the UCCNC if I go that way first) it means there's an operation you can define in 360 which touches off and sets up a work offset automatically. Nice.

[RCaffin]

until it catches the tip when I spin it and that's good enough.
To be sure, that can be just as precise.
Where it fails for me is when I want to rezero to a base plate each day, for production use. I don't want to keep abrading, ever slightly, the reference edges. But that is for my needs.

Cheers
Roger

[Mmpie]

I didn't know fusion could set up a probing routine. That sounds good, anything that reduces the potential for human error is a good thing IMO, particularly with how long these machines take to do anything of note out of aluminium. Like scrapping 2 or 3 hours work because you rotated the coordinates 0.1 degrees the wrong way

Talking of probes my z probe seems to be stuck on digitise whenever the crocodile clamp is clipped to anything, whether on or off the machine. I find that the probe is quite variable though even with a double touch routine and have been using feeler gauges to set z for awhile when z height matters much, it doesn't really take much longer and is far more on point. Noticeable when using different tools on the same surface.

For x and y zero, since I got this new bed, I've chucked up my DTI and zeroed it in one of the reamed holes. Really quick and easy to keep on top of and anything not in the vice can be referenced from that point.


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[Mmpie]

Just to revisit the air compressor discussion from a couple of weeks back. Recently replaced my cheapo Chinese thing with this similar rated belt driven unit https://www.airsupplies.co.uk/abac-a...-litre-7-9-cfm

From a meter distance, noise with my box door open is 77db, with the door shut its 58db, you can hardly hear it. It's so much quieter than the cheapie and with strategic placement you could easily get away with having it in the room without an enclosure without having to worry about your ears. Operating temperatures also seem to be far lower as the temp in my box doesn't rise anywhere near as quick.

In use it happily handles the misters without having to cycle too regularly, I tend to only use one 95% of the time now, but because it's so quiet it hardly matters if it does come on, and dual mist still falls just under the allowed 50/50 cycle ratio. Also rated to use in ambient temps up to 40•C, considering the hottest my enclosure ever got in the middle of 'summer' (if such a thing exists in Britain) was 34•C under a pretty constant dual mist hammering, this thing is more than capable of keeping up.

This is the single phase 13A version, there's a more powerful single phase 16A model available too.

Just thought I'd share in case it's of any help to anyone planning on getting a new one.

Edit: mine isn't actually the one linked. It's the pro model, which is almost the same but has dual outlets and another couple of extras. For any UK based people it doesn't seem to be on their website but they have them in store and can order one over the phone.

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[bl775]

So we set up our Compressor system. The compressor seems to have enough power if it's pre-pressurised to around 120psi. Then we can have constant 40psi outflow for around 10-15 minutes. Made some cuts with this system and it has been working pretty well. This is the compressor: Air Compressors & Accessories | Portable Air Compressors | California Air Tools 5510 Ultra Quiet & Oil-Free 1 HP, 5.5 Gal. Steel Tank Air Compressor | B1898593 - GlobalIndustrial.com

[Mmpie]

Is anyone on here near their machine at the minute? Or does anyone know how much clearance there is between the bottom of the Z and the bed? As I believe it sits a little lower than the bottom of the gantry.


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[dharmic]

My gantry height off the bed is 160mm, yours may be different coz of the different bed types etc.

But the bottom of the X carriage hangs 18mm under the gantry, so the specced 140mm clearance will be to the low point of the carriage rather than the gantry.

[Mmpie]

Brill, cheers. Just enough to squeeze a 5" chunk of wood under it and engrave on the face then.


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[Mmpie]

Maybe an odd question, does anyone have a decent set of gloves for dealing with aluminium chips? The tiny chips our tiny tools make are evil, constantly hands on to change tools manually, after a bit of cutting my hands resemble a cactus. I've so far managed to ruin my vinyl 'heavy duty' mechanics gloves and a pair of leather gloves I nicked off her indoors.


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[RCaffin]

Gloves???
Toothbrush and shop-Vac

Cheers
Roger

[dharmic]

Toughen up, buttercup.



I give everything a good old blast with the air duster before I get my hands in there. Usually saves them, at the risk of me walking out of the shed looking like some Twilight vampire glitter gaylord from the stuff that's flicked up and floated around. I grab cheap (£1) mechanic gloves - the type with rubberised front and just elastic cloth on the back of the hand - and use them if I have to get in amongst it. I buy 10 pair at a time, and as soon as they start getting too holey I chuck 'em.

[markyparky]

Hi chaps,

this thread is probably best placed for my question. I am half decided to buy either X4L or X6L. Mostly for plastic, plywood, acrylic, FR4 and some Aluminium too (I am aware that this type of chassis has its limits...). Basically hobbyist to serious hobbyist level stuff I have two questions if you don't mind.
1) is it reasonable machine for my needs described above or you'd rather class it as a Chinese crap? (I am currently half way through this thread so I don't have a complete picture yet).
2) is there anybody who bought it (or anything from Omio CNC) recently? What was the paypal nickname you paid to? I will have to go for a custom order and buy just the frame only (as I have my own drivers and all stuff). Long story short I can't simply navigate to their eshop and click add to cart and process payment via paypal. I am only in touch with them via email. We agreed on the deal that I'll provide my details and they'll send me a paypal request. In fact I have no clue if I am talking with real Omio salesman or not.

Many thanks,
Jan

[Mmpie]

1) both. It's a reasonable set up that is capable of machining everything you wish, but the build is a pile of Chinese crap. Be prepared for lots of pulling things apart, redrilling and retapping holes where things don't line up and they've just been forced in, hammering everything into shape and lots of pulling your hair out wondering about why someone forced that tap in that hole not only off centre but also at a ridiculous angle. This part is far more painful than it sounds, believe me. But once you've dragged yourself through it it's done and good to go and you're better prepared to do it all again a week later when you find out there's something you missed and have to pull it all apart again.

2) not a direct answer, but make the most of your email correspondence while you still can and make sure any questions are asked now, because once that buy button has been pushed and the cash lands in their bank you will never hear from them again.

I don't regret buying it one bit, it's done everything I've asked of it and recently that's probably more than it's comfortable with (some big parts in ali). That said I am now looking at rebuilding the framework into something more sturdy, but without having this machine in the first place I would have neither the knowledge or the tools to accomplish that, so whichever way you look at it it's been a good buy for me.

Unless you go down the DIY route I don't think you can do any better for the price.


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[Mmpie]

Toughen up, buttercup.



I give everything a good old blast with the air duster before I get my hands in there. Usually saves them, at the risk of me walking out of the shed looking like some Twilight vampire glitter gaylord from the stuff that's flicked up and floated around. I grab cheap (£1) mechanic gloves - the type with rubberised front and just elastic cloth on the back of the hand - and use them if I have to get in amongst it. I buy 10 pair at a time, and as soon as they start getting too holey I chuck 'em.

They were the first ones I tried, I found them to be about as effective as a wet paper bag. It's changing fixtures that's the real killer, when you think you've got it all clean there's always one little needle waiting round the back. I've got that many shards of metal stuck in my hands I think getting through airport security could take awhile...


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