OmioCNC report

[RCaffin]

Do you guys know of anything with those specs under 20k and under a ton ?
You Get What You Pay For.
If you don't pay very much for a Chinese router kit ...

Cheers
Roger

[zeeflyboy]

6k would pay for a nice DIY machine from scratch... especially if you transfer some of the electronics across (e.g. motor drivers/motors/vfd/spindle). I think my new machine I'm building will come in quite comfortably under that, even with the ground ball screws I used.

You could then design that machine to suit whatever requirement you have. Spending that much on improving the X6 would be a waste of time and money, it's not a solid enough base machine to start with.

[VisualConduct]

I had some dimensions like that at the start when I was having running issues but everything I've bothered to measure recently has actually been pretty bang on in X and Y. Z is a different story altogether. I've since changed one of the Y bearings, stripped everything down, given it all a good clean and put in a new PSU so I don't know if any of those things were the cause and also haven't measured enough finished pieces of work to state that it's better now either.


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Thanks Mmie,

Its very usefull to have someone giving this sort off feedback :-)
I guess its a process I need to go trough in order to learn this trade.

Regards, Robert

[Mmpie]

Thanks Mmie,

Its very usefull to have someone giving this sort off feedback :-)
I guess its a process I need to go trough in order to learn this trade.

Regards, Robert

I measured a piece I made yesterday, it was actually bang on to size in Y, 0.12mm too large in X. It could be due to the spindle being out of square, the Y is easy to get square as you can shim behind the spindle mount, the X is insecure and gets forced to the sides.




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[VisualConduct]

Thanks Roger,

I will check that out.
In the mean time I discovered that the 6mm cutter is actually a tenth smaller in diameter.
Doubt that there is flex involved; i used a very low feed rate in mdf with a cutting depth of 2mm, so that should not be a problem i guess.

Regards, Robert

instead of 80mm square I have 80,35mm.
Mach3 does have an axis calibration page, plus full instructions in the PDF.

However, you would have to check first how much backlash and flex you are getting.

Cheers
Roger

[VisualConduct]

Thanks a lot extend,

Yes indeed I noticed also the cutter being 0.1 undersized, so that an important factor already.
Good suggestion about tolerances.... so i wrote a simple Gcode from scratch without Cam cutting out a square.
And now its 0.17mm larger, so i surely need to check Fusions tolerance settings.

Kind regards, Robert

deflection can certainly do a lot of that if you're taking heavy cuts. If you re-run your finishing profile pass and you get new chips then just the frame flexing is causing your parts to be off size.

Cutter size can also be a factor, my 6mm Omio 0flue cutters cut like .1mm undersize from the label.

And keep in mind your CAM, if you have a tolerance setting there that could also effect your toolpaths. Worth double checking if you're not writing your gcode by hand.

[VisualConduct]

Interesting..... Do you mean the Z not going straight down?
In the mean time I discovered another more serious problem, and that is that the X and Y is not completely square (perpendicular).
The fact that I created more space in the backplate of the X, probably did not help, but I guess it cannot be responsible for this whole error.

I am also wondering whether people where successful using the probe for zeroing the Z.
I cannot have it working; after doing the initial probing it goes up a great deal then sets to zero and goes up to clearance.
I end up with a difference of about 54mm, I am using the Mach3 2010 Screen set, but also the original M6start/End gives me this trouble)

I measured a piece I made yesterday, it was actually bang on to size in Y, 0.12mm too large in X. It could be due to the spindle being out of square, the Y is easy to get square as you can shim behind the spindle mount, the X is insecure and gets forced to the sides.
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[JoeBotics]

Hello friends.. nooby here asking question again.. :-)

I am looking for a set of ER20 Collet set for my X8-2200... Amazon shows the typical chinese cheap-o sets and also a lot more expensive sets.. from Dorian Tool 12 piece $150 .. Accusize 12 piece $100 .. and others for much more... then the cheap-o ones for around $40... should I go with the more expensive ones?.. I guess I can spend $150 tops.. no more than that... any recommended brand? best bang for the money? Thanks guys!!

[Mmpie]

Interesting..... Do you mean the Z not going straight down?
In the mean time I discovered another more serious problem, and that is that the X and Y is not completely square (perpendicular).
The fact that I created more space in the backplate of the X, probably did not help, but I guess it cannot be responsible for this whole error.

I am also wondering whether people where successful using the probe for zeroing the Z.
I cannot have it working; after doing the initial probing it goes up a great deal then sets to zero and goes up to clearance.
I end up with a difference of about 54mm, I am using the Mach3 2010 Screen set, but also the original M6start/End gives me this trouble)

Yes. The Y axis is easy to get straight by shimming out behind the spindle mount with aluminium foil. The X is impossible to tram, you can spend hours getting it perfect but after a couple of cuts and testing it again it's already worked its way out.

I use the probe and it does work but mine is uneven, I think there is around 0.1mm deviance across it (I can't remember exactly) which shows when probing a larger tool and cutting on the same height surface, as the larger tool always catches a higher spot. To use the probe you have to set the offset in the offsets page. I leave my probe fixed in place and do this by chucking up my DTI and measuring the difference between the top of the probe and the top of my stock, it works ok, but I'm in the process of making a small fixture plate whereby I will use the top of the fixture plate as the offset point and start setting up my CAM using that as the Z zero point, it will save messing about at the start of each job. It doesn't take long but it gets tedious.


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[Mmpie]

Hello friends.. nooby here asking question again.. :-)

I am looking for a set of ER20 Collet set for my X8-2200... Amazon shows the typical chinese cheap-o sets and also a lot more expensive sets.. from Dorian Tool 12 piece $150 .. Accusize 12 piece $100 .. and others for much more... then the cheap-o ones for around $40... should I go with the more expensive ones?.. I guess I can spend $150 tops.. no more than that... any recommended brand? best bang for the money? Thanks guys!!

Over here we have a machining stuff shop called Axminster. They do a 'precision' collet set that costs enough to lay a deposit on a Ferrari. I managed to score a second hand full set for peanuts off eBay where only one of the collets has seen minimal use, the others were all still in their plastic wrap. I've never bothered to measure run out or anything but I had started collecting the cheapo Chinese collets and just holding these things in your hand you can really feel the difference. The expensive Axminster 'precision' set also locks into the collet nit really well and takes a lot more to break it free.


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[zeeflyboy]

You can get good quality chinese ones, try to look for the ones that specify the runout.

That said, if you're anything like me you'll probably only use a few collets frequently. There's something to be said for just getting a good enough set, then spend a bit more on higher quality collets of the size you use the most (e.g. for me 6mm is the absolute work horse, 3mm and 8mm both get some use, the rest are very rarely touched.

[JoeBotics]

thanks guys.. my question is... is it worth getting the more expensive ones like Accusize or Dorian Tool?..

There is a cheaper option I am posting here, it specifies a Run-out tolerance 0.015mm (0.0006") .. anybody has any experience with it?.. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WLJ9QJL...5337&sr=2&th=1

Over here we have a machining stuff shop called Axminster. They do a 'precision' collet set that costs enough to lay a deposit on a Ferrari. I managed to score a second hand full set for peanuts off eBay where only one of the collets has seen minimal use, the others were all still in their plastic wrap. I've never bothered to measure run out or anything but I had started collecting the cheapo Chinese collets and just holding these things in your hand you can really feel the difference. The expensive Axminster 'precision' set also locks into the collet nit really well and takes a lot more to break it free.


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You can get good quality chinese ones, try to look for the ones that specify the runout.

That said, if you're anything like me you'll probably only use a few collets frequently. There's something to be said for just getting a good enough set, then spend a bit more on higher quality collets of the size you use the most (e.g. for me 6mm is the absolute work horse, 3mm and 8mm both get some use, the rest are very rarely touched.

[Mmpie]

Good point from zee, you do find yourself using the same few sizes most the time, that said it doesn't hurt to have a set as I have used quite a few, mainly for bolt holes.

I couldn't tell you if they're worth it. I can say I would never have bought the set as new, I paid the same as you'd get the cheapest Chinese set off eBay for, it was knock off cheap. On one hand I guess every little helps, on the other I guess a machine like this has so many sources of inaccuracy that the difference in runout from the collet is a mere piss in the ocean.

Try google. I do remember reading a test someone did (possibly on mycncuk) a fair while back when I first asked myself this question when I first got my OMIO, I can't remember what conclusion they came to.

Edit: here it is. Less interesting than I thought ER Collet runout investigation Cheap Vs Brand


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[JoeBotics]

Good stuff!!..

Well, I had a moment of Bourbon shots madness and went with the set sold at Amazon... LOL... I need something.. and it not like, $400 .. so.. I guess I will survive.. thanks!!

[dharmic]

Meh, with all the other sloppiness in these machines I'm not convinced you'll notice a huge difference with cheap collets. I use 'em and haven't had any huge problems.

[JoeBotics]

yeah.. I figured I try generic collets.. I just want to start making parts.. :-)

I am happy with my machine... learning curve with Fusion 360 a bit slow.. I need more hours during the day.. lol

[RCaffin]

I have been known at times to express some doubts about some Chinese equipment ... just some.

However, some Chinese tooling performs very close to Eurpoean tooling, at eBay prices. My understanding is that some private enterprise companies in China - NOT the State-run ones!, have invested in German machine tools and German or Swedish steel and sometimes, a German engineer to run the factory. In which cases, the quality can be quite good.

I did buy a set of Chinese ER collets, and then I measured most of them. They were sold with the claim that they met the (Euro) DIN Standard for ER collets. They all did quite happily. Fwiiw.

And the Chinese 50 mm machine or instrument vice I bought is just lovely.

Cheers
Roger

[VisualConduct]

I did buy a set of Chinese ER collets, and then I measured most of them. They were sold with the claim that they met the (Euro) DIN Standard for ER collets. They all did quite happily. Fwiiw.

And the Chinese 50 mm machine or instrument vice I bought is just lovely.

Cheers
Roger

Do you mind Roger to share the link of that shop with us?

Regards, Robert

[VisualConduct]

Good stuff!!..

Well, I had a moment of Bourbon shots madness and went with the set sold at Amazon... LOL...

Yes those are good moments ;-)
Let us know please your findings about these when they arrive.

Regards, Robert

[dharmic]

I've gone off bourbon, it was getting too expensive. Not that I've stopped making ill considered eBay purchase decisions just because I've switched to scotch...

Heh. $400 on 6061 stock today, all I wanted was some 10mm plate to make my tooling mounts for the 4th axis and tailstock but I may have gotten a bit carried away.

Looking forward to see if the real thing looks anything like the render!