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#1
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Hello all, I made a video of the molding and casting of a small pewter bell I cast. It ended up being three videos because of you tube's length requirements. http://ww2.yuwie.com/profile/?id=417810 Let me know what you think. Dave |
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#2
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| Interesting, but some of it is out of order such as inserting the pattern is in the third video instead of the start of the second. Also, I didn't see the exciting part, the pour! Looks like a nice job and lots of fun! |
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#4
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Sand casting seems to be a very long process. Is there any reason why you wouldnt make a vulcanised rubber mold? Same as they do in the costume jewelry and craftware industries. So much easier for repeatability, reusable, can capture minor under cuts and a potentially better finish. Plus you can store your master pattern(model) safely away from damage. Just set up the mold and pot and caste one after the other. All you have to do is repowder the mold between shots. There are also some RTV rubbers out there which will hold up to the heat. I use a kind that works well for small parts. Comes in a two part that you knead together. Cures fast though and is expensive and comes in small quanteties. But long shelf life no vacuuming. But in half hour you have a cured mold. I an sure you can find a liquid version out ther ethat works well also. The RTV does not have the same life span as a vulcanised natural rubber mold though. But for limited quanteties and fragile(heat sensative patters) it is good. I have two of those same melting pots .One for 92%(OR-8 - pewter) and one for my 88% Interesting video though |
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#6
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| OK, i finally got the videos re worked and hopefully everything is in the right order...and the pour is included! Dave Here is the link: http://ww2.yuwie.com/profile/?id=417810 |
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#7
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| Hello, Thanks for the reply...Yes using rubber or RTV would give a quicker more repeatable process; however, I am just doing this for fun and still practicing the process. Sand casting is good for doing one of patterns that (like you mentioned) have no undercuts. What kind of RTV do you use that you knead together? That sounds like an interesting process. Thanks, Dave |
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#9
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Here is the stuff I use. http://www.contenti.com/products/casting/179-037.html |
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#10
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| Great Video showing how it goes in the real world of casting. I had never seen it done and now I think I will try. Do you have a formula for Bronze? REgards, Steve, ka3rdf@earthlink.net |
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#11
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| As I've never seen molding process before in my life I am very excited to watch your videos.. On the other hand, I've been building up a website for a casting-molding-machining group companies and I always wanted see how people were making those sand casting parts on photos. Thank you Dave.. |
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#12
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| I used a bronze called silicon bronze on some of my bronze castings. The brand I used is called Everdure I believe. Silicon bronze is used more for art work...it pours nice but it doesn't machine nice. The really nice thing about it is that you can reheat it over again and it doesn't change its composition. If you are casting other bronze and brass, you have to be careful because the zinc in it can burn off. I got my metal from NEy metals in ingot form. I also play around with scrap metal. Usually, you can tell if something has been cast or not...if it was previously cast, it should be good to use. It is much easier to start melting pewter, or aluminum, pot metal etc.. because of the much lower melting temperatures. Practice with the lower melting metals and then you won't be as frustrated with bronze or cast iron. Dave Drescher I will post some pictures on Yuwie of some of my projects. Click on the link under my picture. http://ww2.yuwie.com/profile/?id=417810 |
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