My futur Wood and metal Shop (Pics)

[jeffrey001]

Hi, just would like to share with others the construction of my dedicated woodworking shop and since I'm a 25 years experience as a CNC machinist, my metal working shop.

This is a 24 X 36 shop.

This will be for my lathe, My 6X4 Aluminum CNC router and a futur CNC mill and all my woodworking equipments.

Concrete will be poor this week, walls and trusses are due within 2 weeks.

Hope the pictures will upload, had some problems with them.

Will keep updating as soon as work progress.

Jeff

[jeffrey001]

Just an update

[spoiledbrat]

You should cinder-block up the walls to about 40 inches, and then use a 2x8 sub-plate to cover the tops. This will give you 11'6" ceilings. Way better for woodworking (swinging large boards around) and dust collection systems, and lighting.

Or not. I did, and I am way happy with it

[jeffrey001]

Hi, thanks for your comment.

This is easier and a lot cheaper for me to order 10 feet walls.

Walls and trusses are already ordered for a 10 feet high ceiling.

Should be here in a couple of weeks.


Jeff

[ViperTX]

Why didn't you pour a footing?

Paul

[jeffrey001]

pouring a real footing would have cost a lot more.

The concrete slab is 5 inches thick and 12 inches thick for the first 2 feet around it so this is some kind of a footing.

The concrete slab alone cost $5000.00 and concrete alone cost more than $3000.00.

Plus the wire mesh, steel rod, thermo foild, 4 truck load of gravel, excavation, compacting, polishing.

I need to keep money for the building, 24 X 36 is the dimension on a house so this is a lot of money, this is at least a $20000.00 to $25000.00 construction.

Jeff

[spoiledbrat]

They call that a turn-down footing here in clarksville. Unlike the criminals that poured my slab, it would appear that your contractors know what they are doing.

Excellent pics! Look forward to seeing the rest.

[jeffrey001]

Could I ask why you call them Criminals

Thanks for yours comments.

Jeff

[stevespo]

That's going to be a great shop. I'm jealous.

So here's a dumb question. Aren't winters going to be an issue without a footing that extends below the frost line? In the north east US (where I am), I believe it's 3-4' minimum.

I can imagine that the slab would float just fine, but won't the exterior walls be prone to movement without a deep footing? Or maybe you're some place where that isn't an issue...

Steve

[spoiledbrat]

Well, in some places, the American work ethic is slacking, greed is more important that taking pride in your work, etc. Ha ha... I said some...

I paid 3500 for my slab, to get 75% of what I was promised, and with amateur quality. 2 years later, I have cracks that extend from wall to wall. I found a shady mason to do my block work, too. Needless to say, the drain-tile, positioned around the base of the walls (slab is 2 feet underground at the back), was sealed at both ends with clay. I recently put in a sump pump (just in case), and let the water out of that drain tile by elaborating on the drainage system. Sorry if I sound bitter, but my faith in contractors is shot right now. I get better results doing things myself... even if it is my first time.

Are you speaking of the frost line? I never knew that floating had anything to do with that. Would you mind elaborating?

Rob

[stevespo]

Yes, sorry about the typo - meant frost line. I don't know if that's relevant for outbuildings, garages, etc. Could just be residential.

Steve

[spoiledbrat]

I always thought it was a matter of keeping the ground beneath the slab from freezing/expanding. If the bottom of the concrete is below the frost line, mission accomplished. Would not mind knowing for sure, though.

Rob