Resizing perpendicular to the edge for fitting inlays?

[jbeuckm]

I'm doing some inlay work. If I cut the bed and insert the same size, it works pretty well but I have to do a lot of sanding to fit the piece. What I want to do is resize the inlay smaller by .01 perpendicular to the edge all around. Scaling won't work since my shape isn't a regular polygon.

[blowlamp]

Make an adjustment to the Roughing Clearance setting in the Profile/Pocket MOP to get the fit you're after.

Note that this option can be used to make a feature oversize or undersize by the use of a negative number - just have a play and you'll see the effect.


Martin.

[p38nut]

I'm doing some inlay work. If I cut the bed and insert the same size, it works pretty well but I have to do a lot of sanding to fit the piece. What I want to do is resize the inlay smaller by .01 perpendicular to the edge all around. Scaling won't work since my shape isn't a regular polygon.

The VcarvePro forum has a tutorial on this. I used the method and it works well. Please check it out. Thanks. Mike

[10bulls]

Inside corners can sometimes be a problem. For example if you have a square inlay, the matching square pocket will tend to have rounded corners (as the tool diameter can not cut right into the corner without overcutting the stock).

To work around this, you can follow the pocket with a profile operation with Corner Overcut set to True.
This allows the cutter to cut right into the corner.
There is a but more information here:
CamBam 0.9.8 documentation - Profile

Using View - Show cut widths is also useful when working with inlays and can help visualise what is happening when various Roughing Clearances or Corner Overcut settings are used.

Good luck!

[zool]

There is an easier way.

Use a 45-degree v-bit.

First cut the receiving piece with the finish face UP.

Then cut the inlay piece with the finish face DOWN.

Then flip the inlay over and pop it in.

Use veneer glue [Titebond - Product ] and veneer tape to assemble, along with an overlay piece [wax it well so glue does not stick [I also have used wax paper and parchment paper to prevent adhesion] and clamping cauls to distribute the clamping pressure evenly.

Cut the inlay piece a bit large so when the finished work get sanded down the line between the two will be minimized.

Draw a side section to determine exact sizes and depth of cutsfor each piece.

Experiment a bit before having a go at the project.

The line between the receiving piece and the inlay will be almost invisible, and what little movement there is in inlay work will be minimized.

If using dark woods, try this: Titebond - Product

For dark woods I also have good experience with traditional hide glue: Titebond - Product


There probably are other brands that carry similar products, its just that I use Tite Bond glues and gave these as examples as they are what I know.