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#1
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I need to speed up tool changes, and don't have the option for repeatable height tooling right now. I would like a "compliant" tool height indicator, not just a "light up" unit. I guess I could make one with a dial indicator with a flat tip and the other end of the shaft in a drilled block, but would like to look at some off the shelf options. I've found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...8505&rd=1&rd=1 I have a hard time changing jog speed in DeskCNC, so I'd like something with at least an 1/8" of travel. I like the dial idea as I can just start spinning the dial and then plug that value in as a Z height over my work. Anyone have any suggestions? I did several google searches, but didn't find anything too spectacular. Thanks! -Jeff |
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#2
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| The unit you found on Ebay is a good solution, but you still need accurate jog control on the machine to make use of it. Perhaps another solution would be a standalone tool presetter. You need a height gauge (digital is preferred) and a socket to hold your tool holders. Set up a master tool in your spindle, some kind of fixed reference such as the nose of an endmill holder (something that does not change), and touch this off of a gauge block on your machine table. This would be more or less a 'one time setting', if your machine homes accurately in Z, and yes, you will have to go through the pain of jogging your machine to touch the gauge block initially. The length offset of your master toolholder can then be entered in your controller tool length offset table. Once you have a 'known' master toolholder, then you can use your taper socket and height gauge to calibrate a height for this tool. Zero the height gauge and then measure the rest of your tool set. This will give you the difference required for all the tools, relative to the master tool. These new measurements can then be inserted into your tool length offset table. Now, take your height gauge to the machine, set it on the table and zero it on top of the same gauge block as you set the master tool to. Now, slide the height gauge over to your workpiece, and determine the difference in height. This becomes the Z component of your work offset (such as G54 Z).
__________________ First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in. (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#3
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| HFD, I'm *right* there with you... but... I don't have home switches, and I have a #2 morse taper spindle and collets. ![]() Maybe if I used set screw collars on the end mills AND used a torque wrench it might work. But as soon as I switched collets I expect I would lose accuracy. I'd love a Kwik Switch holder, but they almost never show up used in a MT2. When I get the money, I'm planning on upgrading to a larger mill with home switches and an R8, but it will be a while. -Jeff |
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#5
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| Just to record this on the thread.... I've figured out that if I: * Use only 3/8" and 1/2" shaft bits. * Grind down the 3/8" and 1/2" collets to be shorter than the end of the spindle (about 1/8") and * Use one piece clamp-on shaft collar on the bit I will end up with something that works like the Tormach Tooling System. -Jeff |
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