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Thread: Boring for sleeves on 3axis vmc?

  1. #13
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    Here is the information I found from the sleeve manufacturer.

    http://www.dartonsleeves.com/tech_man.htm

    They actually recommend using loctite for their sleeves.

    Man I would be worried about huffing all of that freon.


  2. #14
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    gees guys just heat em up and drop them in make sure you got something to keep the pressure on the sleeve while its cooling as the alluminium block cools away from the castiron sleeve.Generaly theres no dramas if the sleeve interfearance fit is a little bit more because most of the iron sleeves are happy to shrink a bit.I find the two stroke sleeves i fit can be anything up to .0015" out of round,I split the differance between the smaller size and the larger size and then give the interfearance needed.With the heating up method the cylinders get to about 280deg and both the two and four stroke sleeves slip in easy ,as long as all the ports are chamfered properly on the two strokes we still have enough time to twist them into position before they grab .This method has been at least 95% successful for us over the last 20 years or so as long as the finished machine size is of a high quality finish.


  3. #15
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    I also use the same method as greg b . Been doing it for years on 2 and 4 stroke motorcycle and watercraft stuff !


  4. #16
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    Have you guys installed sleeves on a high performance engine block? The block is a V-6 and I was concerned about getting the block heated up uniformaly(sp?) and getting all of the sleeves in place and held there untill it cools.


  • #17
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    MSOMERVILLE;

    Typical options include:

    1. Leave a step at bottom of bore, allow top of flange to protrude slightly, face off to length once the block cools.

    2. Install flanged sleeve and create your own c/bore at top of deck. Ditto with regard to protrusion and facing/decking. Make the flange big enough and you clamp the sleeve in place positivley with head/gasket.

    most risky

    3. Make a fixture to clamp top and bottom of sleeve with thru bolt inbetween. The top plate/fixture will hold the sleeve from dropping below deck until it cools. If you seal the head gasket on the sleeve, the clamping pressure of the head can start to vary if/when the sleeve "creeps". Hopefully, it won't but stuff happens.

    You need to really have your thermal and mechanical fits done properly with this method as should the sleeve loosen, they can/will "drop". This was one reason why some guys gave sleeves such a bad reputation in the 50's, 60's and into thru the 70's. Poor fits result in dropped sleeves and total carnage.

    If push came to shove, I'd use version 1 or 2 and shy away from version 3 - version 3 is a bit too risky for my taste.


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