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I wouldnt want cam gears made from ALOriginally Posted by krymis
hno: as far as timing marks and in fact the whole venture are vernier gears available? or for a small adjustment an offset woodruff key may be the easiest :shrug:
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In conjunction with my other project i want to make one underdrive pulley and a set of adjustable cam gears....any takers on helping with how the hell to do the timing/degree marks? And how the pulley works and how to make it? I know the gears need to be 7075 alum. and the pulley is 6061. I have that much. But once again no one makes a set of adjustables for this vehicle. Or a pulley setup. I want to remake all the pulleys out of aluminum but is that feasable?
I wouldnt want cam gears made from AL
Keith
No problem with alu cam gears hell theres probably a hundred thousand sets of them running around out there
why do you want adjustable cam gears? there isn't much benefit from this. at most you can gain quick adjustability. find out how your gears are secured and what lines them up. on small block mopar engines there is a keyway. you can buy offset machined key ways to change your cam timing. the other option is to get a custom cam ground +- 4 or 5 degrees. on a big block mopar they have offset bushings that will line up your cam. also if you count the teeth on the sprocket you can usually end up rotating one in relation to the other to get close to your specified offset.
now if your talking about dynamic cam adjusting thats a whole seperate story. usually this is done only for emmissions and fuel mileage.
here are pictures of the cam gears...these are more for the regular guys and I just want to make them. I want them available for my guys engines just like the other cars have. The gears have 50 valleys...and i want to go +/- 12 degrees. As for the pulleys well i just want to make them. I understand you guys are thinking performance above all but I also want to make stuff to look good while i do it.
well i think your in luck. if you want adjustability, you can get +- 4 degrees just by using the offset keyway. i think +-12 degrees is too excessive and unrealistic. by that time you should be buy a new camshaft anyway. not to mention who knows what will happen to valve to piston clearance if you start messing with that kind of advance? aren't these covered up anyway?
i can uderstand making the serpentine pulleys out of aluminum and underdrive, but there is no sense in making the timing pulleys. in my racing experience very few import guys will pony up the cash to buy adjustable timing pulleys. the other way to make them adjustable is to just broach more than one slot in the pulley. you will need to do alot of calculations to figure out where the cam is in relation to the pulley but its not impossible. probably not worth the effort but not impossible
I've never seem Al timing "gears" krymis actually wants pulleys!
No problem with alu cam gears hell theres probably a hundred thousand sets of them running around out there
Keith
LOL you called them cam gears yourself on your first reply
they are cam gears. I am almost done with them, the al pulley set, and the throttle body. I have been kicking ass and taking names. I spent a lot of time talking to many manufacturers and engine builders to get the idea bases and many little aspects. I will be posting my designs on the sorin website as well as in this forum. I also figured out the oring opening for the fuel rail to stop the fuel leak. by the end of next month the full rebuild should be done and ready to run.
You can buy really nice O ring seat cutters for the fuel rail that drill the hole, and round the lip all at the same time so the o ring goes in nice...
Before those were available I used to use a drill, then a reamer, then a countersink on the edge.
You can buy "port contour" cutters from MSC to do the ends of the fuel rail so you can use O ring boss style fittings in there which work awesome compared to NPT, but the cutters are a little spendy especially if this is a one off project.
What motor is all of this for anyways?
volkswagen/audi 1.8t 20v guy here!
Krymis, i've got all the o-ring port cutting tools as well as the porting tools as well as the inlet porting tool to put an oring boss fitting in the ends instead of NPTs. let me know if you need me to do some touch up work. also the injector o ring width should be between .540 min and .545 max. i ream mine at .542 and get a really good seal all the time.
i bought the injector port cutter tool at a big ol 137 usd...and the o ring cutter from msc for 208.00 . And those were just for the 14mm injectors and the AN8 fittings. I also ordered the 11mm and the AN6 and AN10 oring cutters. I do appreciate the offer and may take you up on the designing if this tbody doesn't work. I also ordered a full set of NPT drill and Taps so i have them available.
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