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Thread: F1 engine project

  1. #37
    Registered derekj308's Avatar
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    Hi Stevie
    When you do get around to machining your crank are you aware that although your design may be statically balanced (i.e. the crank would stay stationary in any position, not roll around to the same position each time) it won't be dynamically balanced. I have read a lot of your posts and I'm betting you are aware of this but I thought I'd throw it in just in case you weren't. I haven't had a direct involvement with dynamically balancing a crank during the design phase so I'm no expert but I do know it can be designed out and that only super fine tuning is required afterwards. I'm not sure if you could add 'heavy' weight or remove material from the counterbalances of a statically balanced crank to achieve a dynamically balanced crank or whether you need to design the offsets in first and that the adding/removing is just fine tuning.

    Cheers
    derekj308


  2. #38
    Registered RotarySMP's Avatar
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    Felix Wankel started his career doing rotary valving in the heads of four stroke torpedo engines during the war.
    Regards,
    Mark
    www.wrathall.com


  3. #39
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    Go Felix!!!

    Just as a matter of interest, have you considered hard chrome plating for the bores? Nickel works just fine, however I do know from model aeroplane engines that chrome is generally more tolerant of 'abuse'.

    Also, take a look at this:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ayphotohosting

    That piston looks a tad on the heavy side...

    Regards
    Warren
    Have a nice day...


  4. #40
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    I send stuff for chroming all the time; i could do the liners

    but; chrome will not wetout like Nickel


    I might be re-designing the piston design; I like the smaller head; short skirt 2 ring set-up


  5. #41
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    hey Warren

    Thanks; that listing helped be out a bunch
    Heres a revised piston design


    No piston crown yet; and I need to add the small lightening pockets each side of the pin etc; surfaces will be needed for cutting; but it looks good; I might shorten the stroke some more
    Last edited by Stevie; 04-23-2006 at 04:46 PM. Reason: better version of the jpg


  6. #42
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    I'm cutting the bottom profies now on the mini mill; I programmed for Alum so on this piece of cherry i've jacked the feeds up to 200%
    We'll see what it looks like injust over 21,000 lines


  7. #43
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    Beside a AAA battery
    Not bad for Cherry


  8. #44
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    Hi Stevie

    That looks great! Now you just need to add those pockets. Are you going to mill the pistons oversize and then turn them down to the final diameter?

    Regards
    Warren
    Have a nice day...


  9. #45
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    yeap; I'll make a jig that pulls down on the wrist pin hole and finish turn them


  10. #46
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    Hi Steve, have you, or anybody else for that matter, ever considered using a CNC milling machine for grinding cranks and cams etc. This occured to me recently when I saw a video of a hobby type CNC millling machine operating as a lathe, the workpiece was in the spindle, very neat.

    Regards
    Phil

    Quote Originally Posted by Stevie
    ........ if a new machine is needed for say grinding the cams; well i guess I'll just have to build one.........


  11. #47
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    Check out this place http://www.conleyprecision.com/ They make 1/4 scale engines.


  12. #48
    Registered rhino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevie
    Hi Mark

    Wet liners; brass with Nickel plate; I'll try to find some high silicon alum cast stock to make the pistons from
    'scuse the dumbness but what is meant by wet liners?
    On the other hand, You have different fingers.


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