BOSS-5 to Gecko: Instructions somewhere?

[cnc1000]

I have a Bridgeport BOSS-5 transistor fryer. Other than that, it's fine. I see hoards of people have upgraded to Gecko drives, which makes a lot of sense. I cannot find one cohesive set of instructions or articles on how to do it, however. There are lots of snippets on how to do one part or the other, but nowhere can I find everything in one place.

I assume all the cards go away, and maybe even the entire side cabinet. Do you rewire the 3 power supplies so that they all feed off of L1-L2 of the 240V input? Normally, they each feed off of one side of a delta input, but I have to use a rotary phase converter and the one manufactured leg is either high or has to be soft enough to not fry transistors. I need to find out where the limit switches (one at each end or just one that senses stops at each end?) come into the side cabinet, etc. Then there is the spindle motor controls, lube system, brake, etc.

Surely, someone has documented what needs to be yanked, where wires come in, what needs to be added, etc. I just can't find that info anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

CNC1000

[mjf46]

Greetings, I have a BOSS 3 I converted to Geckos. I removed the side cabinet and retained the power supply cabinet. I gutted the power supply cabinet except for the back plane which I used to mount all my new electronics, and the knife switch / fuse block assembly. I bought a power transformer, re-used the existing capacitors, bridge rectifiers and fuse blocks.

I recommend not using a rotary phase converter and opt for a FM50 VFD (or equivalent) to convert the 220 single phase into 220 3 phase for the spindle.

You can run the CNC electronics from a separate 120 single phase source.

I will try to round up some pics if that would help.


Matthew

[cnc1000]

Yes, the more pictures, the better. Schematics are always good, too. I think I can reuse the power supplies, but instead of feeding each stepper supply off of different legs of the 3 phase, I'd like to feed all off of the main L1-L2 line coming into the phase converter. I have a vari-speed mechanical spindle drive that works fine. I don't plan on changing that to electronic unless there is some advantage to it. Is there?

My biggest issue is where all the wires come in from limit switches, motors, lube control, etc, etc. I don't think I have a full schematic.

Thanks.

cnc1000

[TarHeelTom]

Originally Posted by cnc1000 I have a Bridgeport BOSS-5 transistor fryer.

Love your description of the BOSS-5 !

First of all, realize that this is not just one big project. You need a PC. You need a break out board. You need drivers (Geckos). You need a power supply for the drivers and steppers. You need limit switches, and to connect them to the BOB. You need to house all this stuff. Each of these is a separate project. Don't let them overwhelm you.

Originally Posted by cnc1000 I assume all the cards go away, and maybe even the entire side cabinet.

You're right on the money there. Except there is a ton of cooling fin material in the left cabinet. Save all this stuff, plus all the caps and resistors and bridges. I spent a fortune buying cooling fins, not realizing I already had a lifetime supply. You may never use any of those gold colored resistors, but they cost about $25 each, if you have to go buy them. I have no idea what the diode bridges are rated at, but they were mounted on huge heat sinks. Speaking of which, when you mount the bridges, or the Geckos, or anything else which might need cooling to the Al plate, add just a touch of heat conducting paste. Comes in a small jar, looks a lot like toothpaste.

Do you rewire the 3 power supplies so that they all feed off of L1-L2 of the 240V input? Normally, they each feed off of one side of a delta input, but I have to use a rotary phase converter and the one manufactured leg is either high or has to be soft enough to not fry transistors. I need to find out where the limit switches (one at each end or just one that senses stops at each end?) come into the side cabinet, etc. Then there is the spindle motor controls, lube system, brake, etc. Surely, someone has documented what needs to be yanked, where wires come in, what needs to be added, etc. I just can't find that info anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Toss almost everything in the power cabinet. I moved the power cabinet to the right side, as I need to get my machine closer to the wall.

There are several transformers in the two cabinets. Keep and protect the smallest one. It's an 18 Volt transformer, with center taps. The tabs are very easy to break off. DAMHIK Use that transformer, plus two of those monster bridges, and two of the 50 volt caps, and you'll have a fairly rugged 12vdc and 24vdc power supply. Very handy for supplying 24 vdc and 12 vdc to your conversion. I'm using several surplus computer fans for cooling, they are 12 VDC.

And of course, there are several 24 vdc coil relays in there. Save all of the relays.

First off, don't just snip wires. Disconnect all the wires from the mill at the connection strips where they come into the cabinet. Save all the bushings where the cables enter the cabinets. Also, save all the connection strips and fuse holders. You won't use them all, but you'll use several. All of the stepper motors have individual cables running into the back of the computer cabinet. Also the limit switches have individual cables running in somewhere. Once everything is off, it'll be more apparent what most of the wires are.

There is a steel plate on standoffs in the back of the power cabinet. You can either use this plate as a mount for all your etc components, or cut a sheet of 3/16" or 1/4" Aluminum sheet to the same dimensions. You're going to need to drill and tap about a gazillion holes in this plate, the Al plate is much easier to drill and tap, and about a ton lighter. I used 1/4" Diamond Plate, as that's what my local metal yard happened to have in stock. I recommend 3/16".

I started at the top of the plate with the 76 VDC 7A power supply, and outlet strip, and the 12v24v supply.

Then comes the geckos mounted to heat sink. They'd probably be just fine mounted to the 3/16" aluminum. On top of that I have the Bob. I used a PMDX-132 and a PMDX-106 (I think). YMMV I'm also using a VFD mounted at the spindle motor. The PMDX-106 produces 10v to control the VD.

Next I mounted a plastic food box with two computer fans, and a slot to let the air out to the fins under the geckos.

Next a long connector strip.

Then several 12 volt relays. One will be the eStop relay. It'll be energized closed, and will have up to 7 more sets of points available to remove power from other things when the eStop is hit.

Then several 120 volt solid state relays. They'll control the coolant pump, mist, and shop-vac.

The computer, mounted in a POS (Point of Sale) box, will stand on the floor of the cabinet in front of all the relays, etc. A sheet of plastic, mounted on stand-offs, will keep it from getting into the 120v at the solid state relays.

Although my rig is not yet finished, it has run, and made several parts. This was with the various bits and pieces scattered all over the shop. Now the task is to get everything mounted on the one plate and back in the cabinet.

Haven't rigged it up yet, but there is a 9" 120v fan in the power cabinet door. (It's a bit noisy) I'm leaving it in place, but mounting an air conditioning thermostat in the top of the cabinet. If the cabinet heats up, the thermostat will turn on the fan. I'm predicting that it will seldom run. Time will tell.

For a better idea of what I'm doing, visit me at:

Tom Wade -- Machinist Section -- New CNC Mill

Tom

[Tailgunner]

Originally Posted by TarHeelTom Love your description of the BOSS-5 ! First of all, realize that this is not just one big project. You need a PC. You need a break out board. You need drivers (Geckos). You need a power supply for the drivers and steppers. You need limit switches, and to connect them to the BOB. You need to house all this stuff. Each of these is a separate project. Don't let them overwhelm you. You're right on the money there. Except there is a ton of cooling fin material in the left cabinet. Save all this stuff, plus all the caps and resistors and bridges. I spent a fortune buying cooling fins, not realizing I already had a lifetime supply. You may never use any of those gold colored resistors, but they cost about $25 each, if you have to go buy them. I have no idea what the diode bridges are rated at, but they were mounted on huge heat sinks. Speaking of which, when you mount the bridges, or the Geckos, or anything else which might need cooling to the Al plate, add just a touch of heat conducting paste. Comes in a small jar, looks a lot like toothpaste. Toss almost everything in the power cabinet. I moved the power cabinet to the right side, as I need to get my machine closer to the wall. There are several transformers in the two cabinets. Keep and protect the smallest one. It's an 18 Volt transformer, with center taps. The tabs are very easy to break off. DAMHIK Use that transformer, plus two of those monster bridges, and two of the 50 volt caps, and you'll have a fairly rugged 12vdc and 24vdc power supply. Very handy for supplying 24 vdc and 12 vdc to your conversion. I'm using several surplus computer fans for cooling, they are 12 VDC. And of course, there are several 24 vdc coil relays in there. Save all of the relays. First off, don't just snip wires. Disconnect all the wires from the mill at the connection strips where they come into the cabinet. Save all the bushings where the cables enter the cabinets. Also, save all the connection strips and fuse holders. You won't use them all, but you'll use several. All of the stepper motors have individual cables running into the back of the computer cabinet. Also the limit switches have individual cables running in somewhere. Once everything is off, it'll be more apparent what most of the wires are. There is a steel plate on standoffs in the back of the power cabinet. You can either use this plate as a mount for all your etc components, or cut a sheet of 3/16" or 1/4" Aluminum sheet to the same dimensions. You're going to need to drill and tap about a gazillion holes in this plate, the Al plate is much easier to drill and tap, and about a ton lighter. I used 1/4" Diamond Plate, as that's what my local metal yard happened to have in stock. I recommend 3/16". I started at the top of the plate with the 76 VDC 7A power supply, and outlet strip, and the 12v24v supply. Then comes the geckos mounted to heat sink. They'd probably be just fine mounted to the 3/16" aluminum. On top of that I have the Bob. I used a PMDX-132 and a PMDX-106 (I think). YMMV I'm also using a VFD mounted at the spindle motor. The PMDX-106 produces 10v to control the VD. Next I mounted a plastic food box with two computer fans, and a slot to let the air out to the fins under the geckos. Next a long connector strip. Then several 12 volt relays. One will be the eStop relay. It'll be energized closed, and will have up to 7 more sets of points available to remove power from other things when the eStop is hit. Then several 120 volt solid state relays. They'll control the coolant pump, mist, and shop-vac. The computer, mounted in a POS (Point of Sale) box, will stand on the floor of the cabinet in front of all the relays, etc. A sheet of plastic, mounted on stand-offs, will keep it from getting into the 120v at the solid state relays. Although my rig is not yet finished, it has run, and made several parts. This was with the various bits and pieces scattered all over the shop. Now the task is to get everything mounted on the one plate and back in the cabinet. Haven't rigged it up yet, but there is a 9" 120v fan in the power cabinet door. (It's a bit noisy) I'm leaving it in place, but mounting an air conditioning thermostat in the top of the cabinet. If the cabinet heats up, the thermostat will turn on the fan. I'm predicting that it will seldom run. Time will tell. For a better idea of what I'm doing, visit me at: Tom Wade -- Machinist Section -- New CNC Mill Tom

Do you need to keep the transformer T1 (240V/120V step down) to get the 120 vac.

If I want to use the original spindelcontrol (airvalves and brakes,...) what parts do I certainly need to keep?

[TarHeelTom]

[quote=Tailgunner;988236]Do you need to keep the transformer T1 (240V/120V step down) to get the 120 vac.[\quote]

Depends on your current source. I'm plugged into 120vac for the computer etc, and 240vac for the VFD. I saved that big transformer, but didn't use it.

In the US, if you have single phase service, you generally have a three wire setup, a center neutral, and a 120 volt line on each side. (Plus a ground).

From the neutral to either side is 120vac, from one side to the other side is 240 volts. If you're not sure, consult an electrician.

If I want to use the original spindelcontrol (airvalves and brakes,...) what parts do I certainly need to keep?

Leave the spindle control alone. All you have to do is to arrange some sort of wiring between it, your 24vdc supply, and some switches somewhere. I used a couple or three switches on the former control head, but not all of them, and started over with the wiring on them. But save the cables from the control head to the computer box, and the spindle/brake controller also. You just need to supply (probably) 24vdc to them. I've not got them hooked into the computer at all, but may later.

It would be nice in the future to hook the spindle brake into the eStop circuits. However, at the moment, my brake doesn't work, though it did work when I first got the mill.

The brake is, however, mandatory, as you need it when you open and close the quick change spindle.

Friend Roger removed the air brake and installed a manual brake handle. I'd like to design and build a replacement handle which would still keep the air actuator, plus a manual handle, all in one.

Of course, you're not obligated by any many to do anything the same way I did it. You may find better ways.

You might, however, want to check the labels on the solenoids for the spindle speed and brake. Although mine is 24 volts, and most of them are 24 volts, Bp made a lot of mods in many areas for individual customers.

I have found relays marked for 12vdc, 24vdc, and 24vac, plus probably a couple of 120vac. Don't assume on any of the electrical components.


Tom

[Tailgunner]

[quote=TarHeelTom;988298]

Originally Posted by Tailgunner Do you need to keep the transformer T1 (240V/120V step down) to get the 120 vac.[\quote] Depends on your current source. I'm plugged into 120vac for the computer etc, and 240vac for the VFD. I saved that big transformer, but didn't use it. In the US, if you have single phase service, you generally have a three wire setup, a center neutral, and a 120 volt line on each side. (Plus a ground). From the neutral to either side is 120vac, from one side to the other side is 240 volts. If you're not sure, consult an electrician. Leave the spindle control alone. All you have to do is to arrange some sort of wiring between it, your 24vdc supply, and some switches somewhere. I used a couple or three switches on the former control head, but not all of them, and started over with the wiring on them. But save the cables from the control head to the computer box, and the spindle/brake controller also. You just need to supply (probably) 24vdc to them. I've not got them hooked into the computer at all, but may later. It would be nice in the future to hook the spindle brake into the eStop circuits. However, at the moment, my brake doesn't work, though it did work when I first got the mill. The brake is, however, mandatory, as you need it when you open and close the quick change spindle. Friend Roger removed the air brake and installed a manual brake handle. I'd like to design and build a replacement handle which would still keep the air actuator, plus a manual handle, all in one. Of course, you're not obligated by any many to do anything the same way I did it. You may find better ways. You might, however, want to check the labels on the solenoids for the spindle speed and brake. Although mine is 24 volts, and most of them are 24 volts, Bp made a lot of mods in many areas for individual customers. I have found relays marked for 12vdc, 24vdc, and 24vac, plus probably a couple of 120vac. Don't assume on any of the electrical components. Tom

Thanks for the reply.

I'll look into the manual first so maybe i'll have more understanding of the electronics. The next step will be removing te two cabinets and eventually the table because else i won' t be able to get it into my basement. You started a topic on the table removal but i don't understand it to well( English isn't my mothertongue). I'll check the manual for it and get back to you with (hopefully) some good questions.

[TarHeelTom]

[quote=Tailgunner;988593]

Originally Posted by TarHeelTom Thanks for the reply. I'll look into the manual first so maybe i'll have more understanding of the electronics. The next step will be removing te two cabinets and eventually the table because else i won' t be able to get it into my basement. You started a topic on the table removal but i don't understand it to well( English isn't my mothertongue). I'll check the manual for it and get back to you with (hopefully) some good questions.

The table is simple to remove, but not easy. Simply remove the nut from the end of the ball screw. You can then slide the table all the way to the right.

You DO need to have something waiting there to support it. Crank the knee up or down until the table rests upon the waiting support.

You may have to loosen the gib to get the table off. You'll probably need a tie-down strap to generate force to move the table all the way.

Tom