7'6" Bridgeport -- 6'6" Doorway... Uh oh! What do I do!?!

[777funk]

I've got a walkout basement as my shop (I build guitars). I need to get a Bridgeport inside. The height is 7'6" and my doorframe (double doors) is 6'6"

What's the best way to get the fat guy into the little coat with this thing?

I had PM-ed a member with the same machine and he mentioned This:
raise up the table amost as high as it will go and block the head up. Remove the bolts holding the head on and then lower the table. You may not even have to disconnect any wires.

You should be able to put the head back exactly the way it was by tramming the head.

I don't know much about this machine. Does anyone have any step by step on that info above (or pictures).

Also, open to any other ideas to do squeeze this thing under the door frame. I'd really like to get this thing inside and in use!!

This Bridgeport is CNC and is of course not going to be powered upon arrival.

[Teyber12]

i do not own a bp, have never used a BP, or have ever seen a BP so keep that in mind but sounds like he is saying if you remove the head and have it rest on the table. Then once your in you can re-attatch the head.

Hope someone more knowledgeable chimes in

[777funk]

Originally Posted by Teyber12 i do not own a bp, have never used a BP, or have ever seen a BP so keep that in mind but sounds like he is saying if you remove the head and have it rest on the table. Then once your in you can re-attatch the head. Hope someone more knowledgeable chimes in

That's what I took it as. But I don't understand the mechanics of how this would work.

Is it possible to use (raise/lower) the table on the CNC Bridgeport with the machine off?

This is a Boss 7 machine.

[WayneHill]

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92444

[machintek]

HOLY S##T! A BOSS 7!
Yes the table moves up and down with the knee. But this is a rigid ram with a tool changer attached, with all sorts of solenoids and wires and switches!
You need at least a foot plus clearance for rollers, etc.
Wow. There is no easy way that I can think of. Have you considered building a shed around it?
There is a BTC1/BOSS 7 group exchanging ideas here. Search for it. They may have some ideas.

George

[TOTALLYRC]

Hi Funk 777.

I get a lot of PMs asking a lot of different things.
I will many times give a basic answer and then see if more clarification is needed. If you need more clarification ,just ask.
I am glad to see that you started a thread so everyone can chip in.

As you have seen my machine was taken apart to fit into a standard 36"wide entry door of my workshop. I don't think yours will need the extreme disassembly that mine needed.
My log is here with photos.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...t=66994&page=1

Mine machine has had a lot of the covers and such removed so I may not have been as clear as you needed.

First of all, will just removing the head from the ram give you the needed clearance with out removing the tool changer?

If the answer is yes, you can take all of the covers off around the head and the "cheek"(lack of better term) plates. When the "cheek" plates come off, you will see the 4 bolts that allow for the head to be trammed left and right. Removal of these 4 bolts will allow the spindle and head assembly to come off of the ram. You can manually move the knee by cranking the handle and raising the knee. It is a great workout for your arms. I say arms because when I make a large move of the knee, I switch between arms.

Raise the table almost all the way up leaving an inch of travel so you can actually raise the head a little bit when the blocks are in position. Using 4x4 and 2x4 backs of wood, figure out a way to make sure the head is stable. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the head to the ram. Take the cover off of the Y axis drive assemble and turn the screw so the y axis move towards you just enough to allow the head to clear the ram. Crank the head down until you run out of wire slack or you loser it enough to clear the door. Use a strap or chains or something to secure the head to the ram for transport. Move the machine into your basement. Reassemble the machine and search the zone for instructions on how to tram the head on a rigid ram mill.

If you need leas clearance, you could just remove the head covers and the tool change diaphragm, and possibly the brake and motor.

A lot of the decisions need to be made by you since I am not standing next to your machine with a tape measure.

I hope this helps and if not I will watch here to see if I can be more helpful.

Mike

[777funk]

Thanks Mike! I appreciate it. I didn't want to bug you too much. Also as you mentioned I figured I would just post a thread and that way I can see how others have skinned the cat in the past.

Should be fun! I didn't say I was looking forward to it. I just said, should be fun lol!

[mactec54]

Hi 777funk

It is amazing how many people copy what others have said & done, & clam it as there idea,I find this happens quite a lot on the zone.

To remove the head, alone in your case may not be enough to give the clearance you need, do you have the toolchanger on your machine,

Some photos will help to see what you need to do

[777funk]

Originally Posted by mactec54 Hi 777funk It is amazing how many people copy what others have said & done, & clam it as there idea,I find this happens quite a lot on the zone. To remove the head, alone in your case may not be enough to give the clearance you need, do you have the toolchanger on your machine, Some photos will help to see what you need to do

Oh no brother, what he said in his message is that he'd seen others take the head loose and proceed. He didn't at all claim it as his idea. He used an engine hoist I believe and he did a really nice job with his machine.

No one claimed anything as an idea.

But I have to say, if it'll work that's probably the best idea I've heard so far!

[mactec54]

Hi 777funk

I wrote this method in a post some time ago & other Zone members have been copying what I said, it is quit easy to remove the head on these & other mills, the problem is they don't really know how to do this, because they have not done it, & if you don't do it right you will have a 280lb?? head on the floor & you could get hurt, I used to use wood to support the head but found this was not truly safe way to do it even though this was the way I have done more than 30 of these type machines,

So I made a steel support (about 16" long 3x3 tube) that bolts to the table it has a flange on both ends with holes in each flange, You remove the Zaxes motor, then move your knee up so the support is just touching the Zaxes motor mount, now get a piece of 4x4 to go from the bottom flange on your support to the nose of the spindle, make this long enough to put some load on it, The top flange on your support should now be touching the z axes motor mount,& if your piece of wood is long enough you will have the spindle supported as well, bolt the support to the motor mount & you are ready to remove the head nice & safe,With the bolts undone move the Yaxes by turning the belt/pulley once clear of the ram you can loosen the bolts on the table & slide the head to one side so you can lower the knee, once you slide the head to one side tighten the mount bolts to the table
so it can not move.

[mactec54]

Hi 777funk

Regarding the idea of copying what other people say in posts, I have no problem with people copying, that is why we share our experience at doing different things, The problem is if you don't get all the correct information then people could get hurt,

So my post was not about people copying others ideas it was about getting it correct

[machintek]

I believe this head is much heavier than 280 pounds. This is not a series 1 head. It is heavily modified with a auto gear change, orient, special spindle motor. automatic draw bar, etc. This ia a BOSS 7.

George