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#1
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Hi all converting a moog to ball screws and servoes so good so far but !!! need some imformation about the tool changer and the power draw bar . maybee a wireing diagram . ladder diagram . anything would be good . I am slowly working through the problems .I need some background to how it sequenced itself . any ideas . thanks to all otpco Australia |
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#2
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| curses curses curses. I had a Moog Hydrapoint 1000 with a tool changer a few years back. Had ALL the documentation - I had interfaced it to a PC using a parallel port to 32 way air valve interface that I built. Machine was scrapped, and I offered the manuals to all and everyone, no one wanted them so they went to scrap as well. I would far rather that they had found a good home AWEM
__________________ Andrew Mawson East Sussex, UK |
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#3
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I also have not one but two moog 83-1000 right now one is beening converted as we speak with ballscrews left to do is change out some bearings in the head and mount the new related items and go. If I had a choice I be looking for more of them. As for the tool changer well we are not going to us it just yet. System is beening configure with servo 1100oz and viper drives with a candcnc items like mini-io card pendent and rely card software heading towards Linux emc2. I'll post some picture tonight. Luke They look like junk but I have a soft heart and think a moog needs a second chance. |
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#6
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Ha Mark seen your pictures on mach3 yahoo group quite the looking machine you have gone along way with it. How did you do the quick draw bar you chop out alot of items there. I'm not going to do that just not yet as you see I'm still along ways away. Been trying to get my servo's and drivers going on the bench with not much luck. Thinking that what I have is not a command setup so I might be changing to something like Gecko's 340 or the new one that is coming out and then with a new controller card from Cnc4pc or a Campbells product. I going to start finshing the installation of my ballscrew and finish with mill head after that will see what kind of mood I'm in. I'll keep you posted. |
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#7
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the power draw bar !! here is my solution . I took off the Hydrolic accuator and drilled a hole in the top using the cylinder put a threaded rod through and made a air cylinder for the top . it has only a piece of rubber in it . works ok . I think I will use a plc to run the tool changer and gearbox, drawbar side of the machine I run the drawbar etc manual doing the . changes with a few buttons email me offf line for more imformation Markoldfoster@aol.com I have some manuals on the way it will help me I hope .My machine has only a few hours on it .Like new !! the xyz works well all ball screws xy servoes and z twin steppers . more then happy so far |
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#8
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| Hi, have just joined CNCzone today. I have bought a Moog headgear to retrofit to another milling machine. I don't want control gear, just want the varispeed option and the ace spindle setup (large bearings). Have cut a lot of the now surplus framework/casting away but your photo takes my breath away, I didn't dare cut that much off. Anyway my real reason for posting is to find out how i can get back to 3MT in the spindle taper or a conversion arbor. I don't want to use the Moog taper tooling. Can anyone help plse. Also have a lot of early electric/pnuematic gizmos that are not much use to me as well as the entire moog drawbar. Rodger Kallu NZ |
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#9
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Welcome Roger you might have to go too a J head style with a R8 and have an adaptor R8 to MT3 like me you can find these items on ebay I bought one each for my mills by my picture you see that I installed the variable upper part of my moog plus I kept the spindle of the moog also, the only thing I have to do in finish my casting for the bellhousing for the new single phase 3 hp motor. And for others heres a up date to where I am at now going finish my patterns for the ballscrew mounts and both end pieces for the cradle install the other end of the ballscrew. In another picture you see what is two springs this doing on top of my spindle still need to put one of the air cylinders there and bingo a quick re less air applied and tooling falls out of spindle. Will have more picture later as we go. Cheers Luke |
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#10
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good to see someone else has moog madness !! no known cure !!! my mill is still under construction but is working reasnably well . tool changer still being worked manual . carocell going auto . Mach doing a good job dont throw your old moog bits away . I might need some spares . I tryed the air ram thing on the draw bar there is a few drawbacks . cant get the dwawbar tight eneough . maybee Belview washers and air to release . I have now a 6inch bore cylinder to pull the draw bar up and streach the draw bar . it works well it is the fourth rethink of this bit the tooling has to be tight it was the lasr thing my tooling is erickson moog there own taper !! but I have a full set . keep up the good work mark sunny Australia |
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#11
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| This thread is kinda old but I hope you guys are still around. I've had a Moog Hydraport mill for a few years now, very much like that red one. The iron was just too good to pass up. I stripped it down, cut down the head casting, mounted ballscrews and servos and I'm just about ready to look at servo drives. I've been running the mill manually, using pliers to tighten the gear nut on the drawbar and stacking blocks under the stop screw for the quill for depth, using a screw jack under the knee. I'm a little intimidated by the tool changer arm which I've disassembled and cleaned but haven't put back together yet. But I'm encouraged by your comments and the drawbar ideas give me hope. I never considered using a die spring and a pressure cylinder. I still have to mount the quill servo and change pulleys to get the belt tight on the y axis, fairly minor stuff but I keep putting it off for one reason or another. Well, like I said I hope you guys are still here. It'd be great to know some people using these old machines. Jim |
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#12
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