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Thread: VFD terminal hook up help

  1. #1
    Registered 9 1/2's Avatar
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    VFD terminal hook up help

    Hey guys, I finially got my V2XT ready to hook up. Ran power and prepaired to hook up the VFD. I've read and reread the manual and am having trouble understanding the INPUT wireing.

    I'm using an Hitachi L200-022 LFU unit. The manual states to only hook up L1 and L3 leaving L2 blank (for single phase input)

    Here's the problem. #1: How will I achive 220 input with only ONE leg of my 220 connected to L1 and the Neutral connected to L3? By my reconing that will only provide 120 single phase.

    The second problem: I have three wires, 2 legs (one RED and one BLACK) with 120 volts per and a third leg NEUTRAL (plus the bare copper ground) yet the manual states I'm to only use TWO of the three provided terminals.
    L1
    plus
    L2

    Can anyone please guide me? I've studied all the VFD threads on this forum, even the one that sepcifically uses the same VFD. I'm afraid of letting out the magic smoke.

    Thank you and hope you are all having a great time with family and friends.

    Owen
    9 1/2
    B.C.I.T. Machinist CNC


  2. #2
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    You need to hook up the two 240v 1 phase conductors L1 & L3, leave the neutral unconnected.
    The ground wire should be connected to the VFD ground and then on to the motor frame ground.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design (Skype Avail).

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


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    Registered 9 1/2's Avatar
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    Thank you Al.
    I appreciate your help.

    Owen
    9 1/2
    B.C.I.T. Machinist CNC


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    Quote Originally Posted by 9 1/2 View Post
    #1: How will I achive 220 input with only ONE leg of my 220 connected to L1 and the Neutral connected to L3? By my reconing that will only provide 120 single phase.
    Owen,

    Variable Frequency Drives convert AC service to DC and then re-distributes the Direct Current in three phases of Alternating Current. Using a VFD as a phase converter will de-rate it by 33% so an application requiring a 2.2kW drive with three phase service will require a 3.7kW drive for use with single phase service.

    Servo


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    Thanks guy, I appreciate your help but I'm such a dummy..........


    I posted my question and got into the christmas cheer, then saw Al's reply. Like a kid, couldn't wait to try it out ...........

    Damn Magic Smoke!

    Went to my panel confirmed that my neutral was BLUE, by the time I took the steps to the VFD, memory said BLACK. Long story short I accidently hooked up the Neutral (blue) to L3/N and 120 to L1, leaving L2 empty as per instructions.

    Anyone looking for a healthy choice VFD? Its guaranteed Smoke Free!!



    So here's where my dad would say, "Owen, that's your reward for being stupid."
    Thanks dad ...........

    Merry Christmas to all.
    9 1/2
    B.C.I.T. Machinist CNC


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    Do your self a favor and check out automationdirect.com 's selection of VFD's..
    I'd bet it would be cheeper then your Hitachi.

    I got the GS2-23P0 which will do 1 or 3 phase input. (and you can connect any combo of the 2 hots to L1 or L2 or L1 and L3 or L2 and L3. And with the saved money I was able to get input and output reactors and EMI filter..

    So far seems to be a nice unit but it's being used to power my 3 hp spindle on my router mill not my bridgeport.

    Should always check the pannel.. My hots are either black or white depending on which leg side of the pannel I'm on.

    Also remember about 3 phase motors.. If it's not running the direction you want you swap any 2 pair of the 3 wires. (ie if it's going clockwise connecting T1, T2 and T3 and you want it counter clockwise swap any 2 so swap T2, T1 and keep T3 the same wire.



    b.


  • #7
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9 1/2 View Post
    Went to my panel confirmed that my neutral was BLUE, by the time I took the steps to the VFD, memory said BLACK. Long story short I accidently hooked up the Neutral (blue) to L3/N and 120 to L1, leaving L2 empty as per instructions.
    I am puzzled as to why it would act this way, even with the 120 & Neutral?
    The only way I can see it happen with a grounded neutral is if the DC common of the bridge is grounded, but then the 240vac is still referenced to ground through its neutral centre-tap?.
    I am assuming that they label L3 also with a N, is in other parts of the world the voltage is 240 & neutral instead of 120-N-120.
    But still in these cases one side of the 240 is also grounded?
    Like I say, it doesn't make sense. The worst that should have happened is that you would have got an under-voltage fault.
    There was a similar case here sometime ago where someone hooked up the neutral, but he accidentally hooked up to the Dynamic brake output.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design (Skype Avail).

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


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    Registered 9 1/2's Avatar
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    Hi Al, you know that is what is really frustrating me about this whole situation. I am more than willing to accept fault but, I was only feeding it 120 volts. This should have caused an under volts problem.

    The fact remains, however that I did see and hear "the smoke" and now it does nothing when hooked up correctly.
    9 1/2
    B.C.I.T. Machinist CNC


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    The VFD take your AC power, convert it in DC and then make AC 3phase.
    To convert in DC, it use a bridge of diode. So even if you invert L1 L2 L3, your drive will run. If you put the power on the output of the drive, you will burn it and the repair is usually the price of a new. But if the bridge make smoke, it's cheap to repair and you probably be able to use your drive without any repair.

    220V

    In monophase circuit, like household, you have 120V between Neutral (common white) and a live wire (black or red). If you measure between two live wire (black and red), you have 220V.

    Under volt could not ruin your drive.

    VERY IMPORTANT DON'T PUT POWER ON OUTPUT.

    I hope it will help you

    Yannick


  • #10
    Registered 9 1/2's Avatar
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    Thanks Yannick, I know for a fact I did not apply ANY sort of power to the out put terminals. I was doing the pre connection power up test (as explained in the manual) with out load connected.

    I attempted to open the unit to "take a look" but after the housing came off, there was nothing readily visible or obviously 'burned' so what ever the issue is / was, its well hidden.

    At this point, i'm prepairing to order a new one and hope for the best.

    Owen
    9 1/2
    B.C.I.T. Machinist CNC


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    Hi 9 1/2
    You got the smoke because you wired to the braking terminals there are 6 Terminals
    along the bottom marked L1 L2 L3 T1 T2 T3 these are the only Terminals that you can
    use to wire this anything else will be smoke for single phase L1 & L3 on this drive Plus Ground to the Grounding Terminal

    You put 120v on a 24vdc circuit

    Were you see L3/N they are the wrong Terminals for your power to be connected
    the next row down is were you need to be L1 L2 L3 T1 T2 T3
    Mactec54


  • #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mactec54 View Post
    Hi 9 1/2
    You got the smoke because you wired to the braking terminals there are 6 Terminals
    along the bottom marked L1 L2 L3 T1 T2 T3 these are the only Terminals that you can
    use to wire this anything else will be smoke for single phase L1 & L3 on this drive Plus Ground to the Grounding Terminal

    You put 120v on a 24vdc circuit

    Were you see L3/N they are the wrong Terminals for your power to be connected
    the next row down is were you need to be L1 L2 L3 T1 T2 T3

    Hi Mactec, thanks for the advice however, the top row are unmarked and the lower 6 are L1 L2 L3/N - T1 T2 T3. As I said, I've carefully studied the entire manual prior to even setting wire to terminal. I knew not to supply input voltage to the T terminals OR to the top row of terminals (though I didnt know what thoes were used for) I wired it up as I explained above.

    L1 L2 L3/N.
    120 volts to L1 and neutral to L3/N knownig this was not 240v and at worst I'd be under powering the unit.

    >sigh< its all pointless to discuss now, the unit shows no respons to any sort of input now.

    all the best
    9 1/2
    B.C.I.T. Machinist CNC


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