Using R8 Collects/Spindle without a Key Slot

[John3]

I think what's being suggested here is a great idea.

Here's my 20 mils;

1. Take the collet key/pin out for sure.

2. Make the draw bar captive so when it spins to loosen, it pushes the tool holder of the spindle taper.

3. Put a standardized size ring around the tool holders. This ring has a notch/teeth/pin/spline that can easily line up with the tool holder sockets that hold the unused tools. The un-spinning action should allow the alignment of ring and socket.

4. The tool holder sockets may need to be spring loaded in Z-axis to take up screwing / unscrewing displacement. -or- see six below.

5. I can see R8 Drill chucks, R8 Morse taper, R8 endmill and shell holders but you really can't be talking about COLLETS can you? Once out of the spindle won't they drop the tool or at least slip?

6. It wouldn't take much to put a small air cylinder under the tool socket(s) to lift the tool up into and down out of the spindle. That might actually be easier than driving and controlling the knee in synchronism with tool change operations.

John

[rubianroaddog]

HI,
I've been using an R8 miller without a key for many years, I have had no problems, other than the drawbar wearing out, it and that could have been just normal wear and tear. Even when using large cutters I have never had one slip, perhaps I'm just heavy handed on the drawbar.
Cheers
Mick
;-)

[MIKE JEFFERS]

yup as toasty says they can make a mess of your collets and a right pain
in the arse to get out when they do go tu
seen auto eject manual drawbar attachments,basicaly just a left hand thread
on the drawbar and a l/h tread collar on the spindle as you slacken it pushes the collet out

[dave1987]

Originally Posted by DreamFlyer On my mill a clone BP the key is actually an allen grub screw thru the spindle shaft easilt accessable. Take it out and see if you like the way it works. Bob

Yes the allen screw is easy to remove if it has been ground down, but try removing it when the key has been smeared around the inside of the spindle because some operator crashed the machine hard and you'll know why people remove them. (spent 7 hours drilling out screw and messing around with tiny chisels getting that thing out)

[dave1987]

Originally Posted by John3 I think what's being suggested here is a great idea. Here's my 20 mils; 1. Take the collet key/pin out for sure. 2. Make the draw bar captive so when it spins to loosen, it pushes the tool holder of the spindle taper. 3. Put a standardized size ring around the tool holders. This ring has a notch/teeth/pin/spline that can easily line up with the tool holder sockets that hold the unused tools. The un-spinning action should allow the alignment of ring and socket. 4. The tool holder sockets may need to be spring loaded in Z-axis to take up screwing / unscrewing displacement. -or- see six below. 5. I can see R8 Drill chucks, R8 Morse taper, R8 endmill and shell holders but you really can't be talking about COLLETS can you? Once out of the spindle won't they drop the tool or at least slip? 6. It wouldn't take much to put a small air cylinder under the tool socket(s) to lift the tool up into and down out of the spindle. That might actually be easier than driving and controlling the knee in synchronism with tool change operations. John

Check out the mach one tooling system for R-8, they change out the drawbar with a spring loaded pullbar mechanism and you can use either the more traditional spring collet or a collet chuck (or face mill holder, or endmill holder, jacobs chuck etc.). I've used the system briefly once and it worked great.

[JHCHOPPERS]

Originally Posted by John3 5. I can see R8 Drill chucks, R8 Morse taper, R8 endmill and shell holders but you really can't be talking about COLLETS can you? Once out of the spindle won't they drop the tool or at least slip? John

Thanks for all the feedback!

I think I might try to impliment this as time permits. If I do, I will post it here one the ZONE. Yes, I plan on using Shell Holders, not Collects (my bad).

[afmcorp]

i can almost guarantee you that if u leave the setscrews in the quill that in time you will see the slot of ur R8 tooling get eaten up. that little dog on the end of the 1st set screw doesn't have enough of a load bearing surface and that it is harder than the collet it will be the collet that gives up the ship. so do urself a favor and get rid of it. if left in it may even cause a slight jam of the collet if it turns. then u'll have to smack the draw bar to get it out.

good luck