Fanuc on a Series 2
I am not sure what #.
It is in TN and belongs to a friend of mine.
Looking for the owners of all 10 R2G4s in the world. I have number 9. I got a call from number 8 once, located in CA but lost touch. Please write back number 8. He know the location of another at a CA University.
I am using Master Cam and would like to find others to network with. Trying to Drip Feed with limited success. Number 8 claimed to have an expanded memory after market and would like to find where he got this.
Please drop a line and we can chat sometime. Many other issues to overcome.
Could you send him a note for me? Does he use it much?
Does anyone know the quill drive belt # for one of these. It appears to be a rounded tooth belt as compared the the H belts used on the BOSS machines.
Thanks in advance.
I have the manuals in the other shop. I will look it up for you and see what I can find. It may take a day or two.
That would be great! My friend thought he had the manuals. What he had appeared to be the Fanuc manuals, Programming and Maintenance. They were in 3 ring notebooks instead of the typical Fanuc yellow book. He had nothing on the mechanical of the machine.
Wow, now I have another problem. My speed changer slowed to a crawl then stopped. The program will not advance and the machine is basically down for the count.
I de-energized and pulled the top apart. Cleaning the gummy oil/belt residue off the shafts and pulley ID's and reassembled. Never thought I would get it back together. The last snap ring was a bear, it is on the motor shaft.
However, before I get to all the details, I test ran and now M03 is motor start CCW and M04 is CW. Remember, no controller work, no cabinet work. No motor removal. No breaker removal, nothing that would cause the motor to start that way.
Then the Drive pulley top half flew off. That was on Friday and I just went home.
First question for anyone is, WHY the M03 change?
Second, technique for seating that pulley. I work all angles to get the drive belt bigger around so the pulley will settle down onto the shaft.
Thanks in advance. Lee
There is a proximity switch on the HIGH/LOW shifter that is not working. Put it in the other gear range and M3 and M4 will be right. The spindle motor has to change direction from HIGH to LOW to obtain CW at the quill. The switch lets the PLC (Fanuc PC) know which range your in. There is also a variable resistor where the speed wheel was normally. This is the feed back for S code automatic speed adjust.
Does your machine have the rounded tooth axis drive belts?
Thanks man, that really helps. I did have to unbolt the hi/low lever. When I put it back I was sure that nothing had changed on the the setup. I will go back through that procedure.
When I posted this question I noticed that I had promised you a number for that belt. I was looking through the manual last night and could not find it. I know the backgear drive is a rounded tooth belt so there is a good chance of the Z axis being also. I will keep looking and maybe there is a number on the back of the belt I can get you.
Will be in touch and thanks for the help. I was starting to wounder if I knew what M03 actually was. LOL
we have one up at Michigan Tech, couple of us students up here have been trying to get it fixed up and working again - had some problems w/ some sensors hooked up backwards and such, can't seem to get variable spindle speed to work correctly
The spindle has to be running when adjusting the speed and a S code issued within that gear range.
I have had the entire head apart recently due to speed changer problems. Feel free to give me a call anytime.
I now have a stroboscope so can do the speed sensor calibration. So far, I cannot figure out what the high speed stop is. No amount of adjustment seems to keep the machine from going over the top (speed wise) and then continuing back down the other side,,,,, slowing down.
Have to keep trying.
Got any idea where to get a new rudder keypad cover? Mine is in shreds.
Locate me on UW-Madison Geology Department. Under staff. Instrument maker.