Looking for info or manuals for old bijur lube... on BP series 1

[creep_pea]

Cheers Snakebit I'll have a look at it later

[sdeering]

I slid the table competely off and also removed the Y under that. An engine hoist works well for the table. There are lost of lube points under there.
Stephen

[creep_pea]

Managed it just sliding it to the rigth hand side, I used a prop to take the weigth of the free end.
Found the x axis ball screw meter to be blocked the rest were ok.

Thanks again

Chris

[snakebit95]

Glad it turned-out to be an easy fix!!

[Astroboy]

I fixed my Bijur pump (was a TMD-5 model) and lubrication system on my BP series 1 CNC with help from:

1. Bijur: 1-800-631-0168 talked with Clarice X5473 (very nice) faxed me service instructions with part list and diagram
Parts used:
B9834 Motor cover gasket $1.53
B8197 Resevoir gasket $3.03
B5220 Leather cups (need 2) $2.65 each
S-109 Filter group $17.37
H0-402 "O"- rings (bought 2) $1.16

Make sure that everything on the inside of the Bijur unit is spotless, and put some oil in it and make sure it works. Make sure that you write down the wiring connections before you take it off the machine.

2. General Bearing 1-800-373-2105 or 1-323-588-2101 - talked to Bob (last name Fytman I think), who is a factory rep for Bijur. Sells the metering units (little brass items located at places in the line. There are some on the left side of the machine. Check those first. Make absolutely sure that the line going up and back (to spindle) is working! I used part number 185502 (bought 3 for $7.37 each). Metering units have numbers on the side: 3/0 lowest flow, 0 0 next lowest, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 in order of increasing flow. Check the number on the side and order the same number. Bob can help you figure out what you have.

3. ME

I slide the bed (~340 pounds!) off to the left of the machine and supported it on a table and an eyebolt on the bed with a pulley system up to the top of my garage. Was able to get to each metering unit. Was able to clean out all the chips and other gunk under the bed as well. Check each one for flow, and replace if there is not some flow. Clean out oiling grooves on ways with Q-Tips and any orfices that bring oil to the grooves (mine were full of sludge). Even the gib should be taken out and cleaned because it has holes/slot in it that was gunked up. Only draw back, is that now that all are working I get lots more oil on the floor.

Solution: Go to dollar store and get cheap aluminum cookie sheets and place on floor and machine base. I refilter the way oil using coffee filters (also bought at dollar store) and use it on my manual lathe ways (much cleaner than chips and works better than car oil). I would not reuse it in the Bijur unit because those metering units get clogged with small particles.

My machine acts like it is much smoother with the bed and cross slide moving much easier now.

Hope this is useful to all! - John

[NC Cams]

Astroboy: check out the properties of Dexron III ATF. It has anti-rust and anti-oxidation agents that can help ungunk sludged up lines and passage ways.

We've used it in a pinch for spindle oil, way oil and goodness knows what else. It, too is better than engine oil because it has agents in it the keep rubber o'rings from swelling detiourating - motor oil doesn't.

Cheap and easy to get, too.

Recycling oil as filtered via coffee filters may remove particles but other chemical contaminants may remain. I'd be real learly of filtering oil that has been thru the system because you don't know what it picked up. Besides, the red color makes it real easy to see if it is ATF or oil from someplace else that you NEED to be concerned over.

[Astroboy]

I had not considered ATF fluid. Some brands seem to have a really nasty smell to them, however. I bought a quart for one of our vehicles, and I had to put it into two zip lock bags to reduce the smell.

One concern that I would have is that Vactra 2 has substantially higher viscousity which would make the thin film of oil on the ways thicker than ATF. Because it is thicker, it makes things move more smooothly than a lower viscousity fluid, and would have less wear. Manual transmissions usually have 90 weight gear oil in them for this reason. Automatic transmissions have other reasons for going to thinner oil.

But a quart of ATF is probably substantially more inexpensive than Vactra 2.

And ATF addititives would stop rust and other things. Since I always use RE-LI-ON oil as a cutting fluid, I never have to worry about rust, but for those that use water based coolant/cutting fluids, then reducing rust would be a good feature.

Interesting idea - Thanks - John