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#13
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| Another question; Kluber has these high-speed greases; ISOFLEX LDS 18 SPECIAL A ISOFLEX NBU 15 ISOFLEX NCA 15 Klüberquiet BQ 72-72 Klüberquiet BQH 72-102 Klüberspeed BF 42-22 Klüberspeed BF 72-22 Which one is the right one? LaVerne |
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#15
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| Kluber is like the, or THE super premium synthetic bearing grease, especially LDS18. When it comes to ultra high speeds, Kluber is like super good stuff. Bridgeport oem grade bearings were lubed with Andok C which was a good general purpose grease. They were lubed at the factory and some 10-15 year old or older mills are probably STILL running with Andok C providing the stuff never got overheated or contaminated. Re: washing bearings. A factory wash and fill of grease is hard to beat. Be it Fafnir or NSK or NTN or Koyo or whomever did the OEM Bridgeport service bearings, you were pretty much assured of as good a service bearing as the stuff that was put in the machne when it left the BPT factory. Regarding the "...the manufacturers don't always do a great job of cleaning the bearings either..." comment, all I can say is HUH????? The factory clean and grease fills of the bearings that we did for the OEM's we supplied bearngs to/for worked well. Be it the company I woked for or the companies we supplied to/for, ANY bearing supplier would have a hard time agreeing with that statement. Sort of like saying, "...when did YOU quit beating your wife or kids???.." |
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#16
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| I picked up the Kluber ISOFLEX NCA 15, a 50 gram tube is $55 CDN though I found my local supplier is a bit pricey compared to some others. Way I figured it, if I ever need to replace the bearings on another mill, I'll have grease. About the marks on the bearings, are they to be aligned? I've found that some of the info I've found isn't neccesarily accurate ![]() LaVerne |
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#17
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| Cleaning agent for bearings: A spray solvent like Brakecleen by CRC is what I use/recommend. DO NOT SPIN DRY THE BEARINGS WITH AIR. Don't just shove the grease in as if you were packing wheel bearings or pickles into a jar, use a syringe and instert the grease into the inner and outer raceways. Put in a little bit and rool the bearings around in hand to distrubute grease on the balls/cages. Then insert the rest. 30% fill is plenty. When you start using the spindle, start it real slow and let it run that way in pulsed operation with longer and longer run times. This channels the grease nicely as opposed to flinging all over hell and back. Watch for ANY signs of rapid heat rise - if this occurs, stop and find out why, IT WILL NOT GO AWAY ON ITS OWN. Traditionally, any alignment marks should be aligned. These were also used to mark the high point of eccentricity in the bearing raceways. It used to be that you could orient the spindle eccentricty and bearing eccentricity to minimize ID grinding amounts. BUT with the way they make bearings anymore, it is pretty hard to do that trick anymore because the raceways are so concentric - at least the good ones. |
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#18
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hi, every one i make 10,000 rpm spindle but not running proper it very noise in bearing and some vibration so please give some feed back my spindle data housing OD = 40 mm shaft dia = 15 mm baring is 6002 angular contect koyo japan not precision pair bearing when i runing speed 2000 rpm in spindle some noise thanks |
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#19
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| "NOise" is typically caused by damage or faulty efforts - which you have is hard/impossbile to determine. A 10,000 rpm spindle SHOULD be used with precision bearings - you need ultra precision to run at that speed and for the parts to survive. A 6002 is NOT, NOT, NOT an angular contact. A 7002 IS an A/C. They are NOT, NOT, NOT a one for one interchange. They are the same size but NOT the same bearing!!!!!! If you NEED a 7002 and used a 6002 in its place, it would not be a surprise to experience dissatisfaction in the performance of the device. Frankly, ;you do not give enough information to diagnose "bearing noise". Sometimes, this can be caused by improper assembly (damage occurs at installation). Sometimes by improper design (no preload, not enough preload, wrong preload, etc) This can perhaps be because of the use of the wrong type of bearings - Examplke: use of ball bearing when A/C is needed or something like that. |
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#20
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i check some spindle in use for p4 or P2 class A/C bearing. so i deside i use in this spindle 7002CTRDULP3 Make RHP bearring A/C but i dont know desigen and tollrance shaft dia bothside and housing ,bothside or spacer and spring tenson . for preloaded desigen.so any desigen darawing ,data and tollrance for bearring fittin.. thanks bhavesh |
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#21
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| If you need ISO P4, you should NOT use ISO P3 - they are NOT equivalent in accuracy, they are not even close. P3 has about 2x the runout tolerance as P4. You have DUL bearing. Do you need DUH or DUM??? IT makes a difference. What about fit? Should it be DU, or DB or DF. You don't say. Do you KNow???? If you have NO idea about your shaft or housing accuracy, you may NOT be installing things back properly or correctly. Machine tool fits are NOT always simple "remove and replace". Sometimes, you need to regrind shaftt ID's and registers AFTER assembly - this is quite common. THe reply "I don't know" is a dangerous reply when it comes to servicing ANY machine tool applicaiton - especiallly, now when you are now having problems and don't know where you are or where you should be in the first place.. Simply put, if you R&R bearing and now you have "noise", chances are things were done incorrectly or the wrong parts were used. |
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