Bijur Fittings

[arsenix]

I decided that I wasn't sure my table was getting enough oil on my R2E4 series II... so I decided to check flow to various points. I pulled the plastic hose going from the lube cabinet to the knee off at the T mounted on the knee. It appeared a previous owner had tightened this fitting to the point of expanding the sleeve inside the aluminum T. Unfortunately I think I am going to need a new sleeve, and a new T. These appear to be some sort of "Bijur Tapped Fitting" as they call it. Is there a generic equivalent, or possibly a cheap(er) place to get Bijur fittings like this?

Apart from the problems I "caused" by investigating, it does appear like not much oil is coming through that line even when it is cut clean. Can anyone recommend how fast it should come out of here? Is it common for the oil lines to get plugged on older machines? Now that this one appears plugged I am suspicious of the others. It always seems like there is plenty of oil dripping down from the head.

Sorry for the long "question", I'd appreciate any tips! Thanks!

james peverill

[Al_The_Man]

One problem is that Bijur pumps are usually neglected and the oil tends to gum up after a while, the sump should be removed and the pump and filter cleaned, also you will probabally find that at each termination point there is a metering device, it look just like a straight brass fitting but it has a number on it which indicate the size of the orifice. These can become blocked over the years and the best way is to replace them all. If one has been blocked for any length of time the line will probabally be gummed up and need flushing.
Al.

[trubleshtr]

The "t" you are referring too, is it a metering point or just that a "tee"?
I have used smc one touch fittings and even compression fittings in a pinch before on straight runs of oil lines, as long as the working pressure is not too high. If it is a metering point as Al mentioned you are better off to properly replace it to ensure you are getting the right metered amount of oil to your lube point.

[m37]

here is a link to a company Emrick Machinery
that has all the fittings and valves
I emailed them they have the best prices I have found
metering valves were $7.65

I have a series 1 rigid that the metering valves are all gummed up
if you look in your manual it should have a lube system drawing
my series 1 has 13 or 14 of them
mike


http://emrickmachinery.com/lubrication-parts.php

[arsenix]

I tried soaking some of those metering valves in degreaser overnight and then baking them dry... the parts i could see looked clean but i'm not sure about inside. My machine has 25 of those little buggers... it pains me in the pocketbook to replace them all but if it's necessary I'll do it.

I think all my tubing probably needs to be replaced, that is cheap enough ($.12/foot even from mcmaster). It is odd that in the parts list, one of the tubing sections is copper, whereas all the others are brass... maybe that one bends more?

Thanks for all the tips, I'll get in touch with that company.

james

[arsenix]

Ok so I am ordering all the parts I will need for the renovation. For some reason, all the hard lines in the machine are brass except for two. The lines that feed oil to the ballscrew nuts are copper. Does anyone know the reason for this?

Second question, is there an easy way to get at the two lube fittings in the top of the head? I'm not anxious to pull off the top of the head to get at them...

Thanks for all the tips!

james

[arsenix]

I've got one more question about this stuff...

Does anyone know how the plastic lines to the ways are held in the holes? They don't appear to just pull out (at least not with my tenative tugging). Are they glued or held in some how? As long as someone will tell me that they will go back in, I'll pull hard enough to get them out

Thanks for all the help!

james

[mxtras]

For what it's worth - take a look at this thread -

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10535

It may give you a few ideas, it may not.

Scott

[m37]

don't know on the plastic lines havent pulled the table off yet
on the head it looks like if you follow the instructions for changing the z axis
belt and lift the upper head up a little
you should be able to get at the lower fitting thats where
the metering valve is
im just hoping the tube running to the top isnt clogged
mike

[arsenix]

Seems like the plastic lines are glued into their holes somehow, maybe epoxy? I just finished ultrasonically cleaning and blowing out all the lube regulators. Lube seems to be flowing well to all regulators now.

I'm debating whether to try to replace the short plastic lines that run from the regulators to the lube points. Looks like it won't be easy. Seems like the longer feed lines are more susceptible to getting plugged.

james

[unterhaus]

Originally Posted by m37 don't know on the plastic lines havent pulled the table off yet on the head it looks like if you follow the instructions for changing the z axis belt and lift the upper head up a little you should be able to get at the lower fitting thats where the metering valve is im just hoping the tube running to the top isnt clogged mike

On mine, there is nothing on the top to clog, just an open plastic tube. Where did you get a manual? Changing the z axis belt looks like the sort of thing I'd like to have a manual for.

I got all my metering units and tubing from MSC. They don't carry Bjur, they carry one of the knockoffs which seem to work just fine.

[arsenix]

My machine came with all the manuals except the maintenance manual. Lucky for me when I realized I needed the maint manual I searched on ebay and there it was... just the manual i needed for a very reasonable buy it now! You can also get CD copies of a lot of them on various web sites around the net.

Do you have a series 1? My mill actually has a T junction up in the head with two metered branches.

Could you tell me some part numbers in the MSC catalog? I looked on there website and didn't find em! I'm curious what their prices are vs the lubrication houses.

james