Build Thread- eStop questions

[TarHeelTom]

When we first started trying to run down the wiring on the eStop panel, it appeared that several of the switches didn't work reliably. Picked up a different, used, eStop switch, and started to wire it up.

Finally came to the conclusion that most of the switches seem to work, but the spade connectors on many of the jumper wires behind that panel seem to be loose and corroded, and not making reliable contact.

The eStop switch is a little bit weird, it has three sets of NC contacts and one set of NO contacts. Removed all the jumper wires to other switches, and then jumped all the NC contacts together. The eStop switch will receive 24 vdc from the relay buss, then feed it, through a momentary contact switch, to a pair of four pole relays, giving me 8 sets of points, if I need them. (I probably didn't say this right, but I know how to do it)

One pair of points will be used to keep power on the relay coil after the momentary contact switch is released.

BTW, this is a stepper machine, with a PMDX 132 bob, PMDX 107 motor speed contorller, VFD, Gecko 203v's, EMC2, etc.

Another set of contacts will go to the eStop input on the PMDX 132.

Another set of points will break the spindle speed feed to the VFD.

A NO set of points will feed an eStop indicator light or LED.

So now that the relay has been de-energized, I've told EMC2 that there is an eStop, the 10 volt feed to the VFD is broken so the spindle is slowing down, the PMDX 132 has told the Geckos to stop, and the eStop warning light is lit, and the PMDX 132 has told EMC2 that an eStop exists. What else do I need to do?

Do I need to disable, for instance, the flood pump and mist coolers?

On a different topic....

Opened up the head area which contains the Z limit switches, as they came wired NO, and I'm changing all to NC.

There are two identical side mounted limit switches (one for upper limit, one for lower limit), which are activated by a cam which moves with the spindle. Had to remove the switches to get to the wiring terminals.

Upon replacement, I set these so that the roller moves about halfway up the cam before opening the switch. Is this the proper "calibration" ? Each of these switches opens about 2 turns of the pulley before hitting the hard stop.

Then there is a top mounted plunger type switch activated by a bolt sticking straight up from the spindle. This switch opens at about 1/4 turn of the pulley prior to hitting the hard stop. Is this adjusted correctly? Is this particular switch a good one to use for a home switch?

Thanks

Tom