Moving a rather large Series II

[2xEngineer]

Howdy Gang!

So I recently got the opportunity to pick up a retrofit in progress of a 1978 Series II. The exact model number I am not sure of, but it was a tape model with the large mechanical pulley/sheave head, 4hp motor, 40 taper, and a turret depth stop setup. I am looking for the lifting/moving information from the manual. I have read that it may have large rectangular holes behind the nameplates on the neck of the machine. I would like to see the manual information to tell if I have to do any particular things like torque the bolts holding the head on to any particular torque, etc. I would also like to know if solid bar through the holes is recommended, what size is recommended, etc.

The head, neck, and the stepper motors have already been moved. All electrical cabinets have likewise been separated.

I plan to have the thing forklifted onto a well built steel tubing dolly with large, 3500 lb ea rated casters that can be raised to allow the machine to sit on the steel tubing. I am thinking of using 6"x4" .125" wall tubing to form the part that supports the base, and 1"-5 4140 acme threaded rod to raise/lower the casters. This way, I will only require a forklift at the loading end of the trip.

[2xEngineer]

Alright! Looks like I answered most of my questions. It is a standard series II, I was getting confused by all of the different designations. It does have the holes behind the access panels, however I can not use them due to ceiling height limitations.

I figured out a gnarly dolly, thank you craigslist! I got 4 3,000 lb capacity 8" casters already mounted on large steel angle plates, with clearance holes for 1/2" screws and 2 3/4" pins. I am going to weld two flanges with matching patterns on two lengths of 4.5" square steel tubing with .25" walls. Maybe add some gussets. I can use acme threaded leveling feet from McMaster along with acme nuts to do the lifting. With two removable cross members, I can pry the machine up until the beams with casters fit underneath, slide them in from the side, and pin my cross members in between them. All in all it is going to be simple, and most of all cheaper than hiring riggers. I will post pics later for posterity.