Looking at a Torq Cut 22

[nlh]

Wrong Thread.

[Marty_Escarcega]

Mactec,

Back to the .60 software...Here are a few pics of the inside of the control cabinet.

***Oops, just noticed my phone took the pics sideways. Sorry about that!

Wrong thread?

[nlh]

Sorry Marty, your right...I ended up posting in the wrong thread. I will fix asap!

[hax0red]

You should be refeeding T-2's breaker from L3 to L1 (the feed into the breaker not from.)

Are you saying you don't have the fused main disconnect? How about a good picture of you cabinet?

I have the 3 main 50 amp fuses for each leg but after that my machine has breakers vs dbtoutfits fused layout. The pictures attached to this post are all of my machine as it sits now (untouched so far).

[hax0red]

The T1 transformer isnt as easy to photograph without removing it but after comparing it to schematics it looks to be the same.

I will probably go for 230V on T1 and 245V on T2 but I want to measure my exact voltage coming strait off my breaker box for comparison.

[hax0red]

You should be refeeding T-2's breaker from L3 to L1 (the feed into the breaker not from.)

Are you saying you don't have the fused main disconnect? How about a good picture of you cabinet?

Think we can get a photo of exactly how you have yours wired? This seems like the only trivial portion not clearly indicated on a schematic for me to follow.


Thanks again for all the help guys. Hopefully by the end we will have flooded enough information into this thread so the next guy can pull this off in his sleep.

[mactec54]

The T1 transformer isnt as easy to photograph without removing it but after comparing it to schematics it looks to be the same.

I will probably go for 230V on T1 and 245V on T2 but I want to measure my exact voltage coming strait off my breaker box for comparison.

You have no choice, this is the way it has to be wired

[hax0red]

You have no choice, this is the way it has to be wired

Went ahead and rewired both transformers (T1 230v & T2 for 245v) and jumpered the input side of CB3's L3 to CB2's L1. I used a black wire. I also removed L3 from the VFD's "T" input. Both wires will be capped off and tucked away.

I also took the 100ft spool of green wire back and swapped it for 25 ft of stranded THHN 6 gauge green, red and black wire so everyone is comfortable. Also went ahead and picked up a 250v 50 amp plug and receptacle for a 2 gang box I already had & 25ft of 3/4" water tight conduit with water tight fitting that mounts to the enclosure.

The 50 amp 2 pole breaker should be in tomorrow so hopefully everything goes off without a hitch. Feel free to critique the photos of what I have so far. I wont be firing anything up until I hear back on the jumper on CB2 & CB3.

[mactec54]

Went ahead and rewired both transformers (T1 230v & T2 for 245v) and jumpered the input side of CB3's L3 to CB2's L1. I used a black wire. I also removed L3 from the VFD's "T" input. Both wires will be capped off and tucked away.

I also took the 100ft spool of green wire back and swapped it for 25 ft of stranded THHN 6 gauge green, red and black wire so everyone is comfortable. Also went ahead and picked up a 250v 50 amp plug and receptacle for a 2 gang box I already had & 25ft of 3/4" water tight conduit with water tight fitting that mounts to the enclosure.

The 50 amp 2 pole breaker should be in tomorrow so hopefully everything goes off without a hitch. Feel free to critique the photos of what I have so far. I wont be firing anything up until I hear back on the jumper on CB2 & CB3.

So you have used a Jumper from CB2=1L1 to 1L3 on CB3 , the CB3 1L3 wire is the only wire that you have to put a wire nut on and tape it you can of course do the ( T ) VFD connection also if you want to, or just leave it connected

You don't have to remove the ( T ) wire on the VFD, as the L3 connection has no power connected, it will be fine left wired, just check with a meter, that L1 feeds to the R Terminal on the VFD and the L2 to the S Terminal, you can also check the T2 Transformer connection with your meter, the same way, to see that it is connected to L1 and L2, Both Transformers should have a L1 and a L2 connection
T1 Transformer is already connected to 1L1 and 1L2 so don't need to check the T1 Transformer

Twistlock plugs would be better than the type you have, but also think of wiring it direct, with no plug which it even better for this type of connection, Plugs for something like this is not really a good ldea

Twist the Black and Red wires together before you put them in the conduit, the Green stays untwisted

All checking should be done with no power on or connected

[hax0red]

So you have used a Jumper from CB2=1L1 to 1L3 on CB3 , the CB3 1L3 wire is the only wire that you have to put a wire nut on and tape it you can of course do the ( T ) VFD connection also if you want to, or just leave it connected

You don't have to remove the ( T ) wire on the VFD, as the L3 connection has no power connected, it will be fine left wired, just check with a meter, that L1 feeds to the R Terminal on the VFD and the L2 to the R Terminal, you can also check the T2 Transformer connection with your meter, the same way, to see that it is connected to L1 and L2, Both Transformers should have a L1 and a L2 connection
T1 Transformer is already connected to 1L1 and 1L2 so don't need to check the T1 Transformer

Twistlock plugs would be better than the type you have, but also think of wiring it direct, with no plug which it even better for this type of connection, Plugs for something like this is not really a good ldea

Twist the Black and Red wires together before you put them in the conduit, the Green stays untwisted

All checking should be done with no power on or connected

Yeah I mentioned previously that I figured removing L3 from the VFDs T terminal was probably redundant but its nice to have some level of continuity when I go back later. As for the R terminal its connected to L1 but its S thats connected to L2(think you had a typo with L1 & L2 both going to R).

I originally planned to wire the machine up directly to the breaker box but the landlord thing has me going a little out of my way to make them feel more comfortable and this 50 amp plug was all Lowes or Home Depot had it stock. I would definitely have preffered a 50 amp twist lock if I could have found one .

I checked the continuity from the T1 & T2 transformers to the input side of CB2 and CB3 breakers and everything looked like you would expect after adding in the jumper, of course I had to disconnect the wires from the Transformers before performing the test. I also checked for shorts between the input and ouput on each transformer and it looks good to go.

I should be ready for a test run within an hour or two but I am debating removing the X and Z axis drivers to clean their PCBs since the Y axis was caked with a black resin like substance that I am guessing was blown in from the two cabinet fans. The Y axis was by far the worst but I am still worried about a light coat on a lot of other components but this is assuming its even conductive.

[mactec54]

Yeah I mentioned previously that I figured removing L3 from the VFDs T terminal was probably redundant but its nice to have some level of continuity when I go back later. As for the R terminal its connected to L1 but its S thats connected to L2(think you had a typo with L1 & L2 both going to R).

I originally planned to wire the machine up directly to the breaker box but the landlord thing has me going a little out of my way to make them feel more comfortable and this 50 amp plug was all Lowes or Home Depot had it stock. I would definitely have preffered a 50 amp twist lock if I could have found one .

I checked the continuity from the T1 & T2 transformers to the input side of CB2 and CB3 breakers and everything looked like you would expect after adding in the jumper, of course I had to disconnect the wires from the Transformers before performing the test. I also checked for shorts between the input and ouput on each transformer and it looks good to go.

I should be ready for a test run within an hour or two but I am debating removing the X and Z axis drivers to clean their PCBs since the Y axis was caked with a black resin like substance that I am guessing was blown in from the two cabinet fans. The Y axis was by far the worst but I am still worried about a light coat on a lot of other components but this is assuming its even conductive.

It will be coolant ( cutting oil ) that has coated everything should be fine, but clean it all up when you get a chance I corrected the L2 to S in the last post

[hax0red]

It will be coolant ( cutting oil ) that has coated everything should be fine, but clean it all up when you get a chance I corrected the L2 to S in the last post

She runs! Not sure how to use everything yet but so far it looks ok. Next up is testing the axis and tool changer.

Thanks again to everyone for the help. Hopefully the next guy looking to run single phase on a Torq Cut wont be an issue.

[hax0red]

Got all the axis moving. No air connected so I keep getting a warning. Also noticed the Z axis doesnt seem to hit the home switch even though I adjusted it to keep the travel as low as possible (roof). The seller mentioned he had trouble with the Z so once I get a someone to give me a hand I will test it out.

Also noticed when turning the mill on and off via the power switch that sometimes the computer wouldnt boot. I had to cycle the power three times once but other than that and some following errors when attempting to run the servos too quickly all seems OK (so far). Havent tested out the carousel but I was told it worked though.

Now that I think about it I better check that the bios battery isnt leaking as some others mentioned it could become a problem...

[hax0red]

The Z end stop definitely wasnt engaging, looks like the plastic portion that makes contact with the Z slides trigger was worn so I threw a couple of washers to shims it out and so far its working great again. I also ran the carousel some, all except actually changing/loading a holder as I dont have the air connected and I know I am going to have to change the height the head lowers to when loading/unloading a holder since I adjusted the top Z axis end stop to trigger quite a bit lower than before.

I also checked the machines X, Y & Z backlash with a 0.0001" graduation dial test indicator. It looks to have 0.00005 on X and no more than 0.0002 on the others although I would like to retest with a higher quality DTC. When compared to my last machine that maxed out around 0.0024" this machine is infinitely more precise by comparison and even after 20 years of use is still holding factory tolerances. Also impressed that its capable of traveling in 0.00004" increments accordingto the manual and from what I could tell from my DTC.

The photo with the TC 22 & TC 30 specs talks about running 8000 RPM without the transmission. Can the transmission be removed? I could really use the additional RPM vs torque and it would give me the clearance I sorely need in the Z axis.

[mactec54]

The Z end stop definitely wasnt engaging, looks like the plastic portion that makes contact with the Z slides trigger was worn so I threw a couple of washers to shims it out and so far its working great again. I also ran the carousel some, all except actually changing/loading a holder as I dont have the air connected and I know I am going to have to change the height the head lowers to when loading/unloading a holder since I adjusted the top Z axis end stop to trigger quite a bit lower than before.

I also checked the machines X, Y & Z backlash with a 0.0001" graduation dial test indicator. It looks to have 0.00005 on X and no more than 0.0002 on the others although I would like to retest with a higher quality DTC. When compared to my last machine that maxed out around 0.0024" this machine is infinitely more precise by comparison and even after 20 years of use is still holding factory tolerances. Also impressed that its capable of traveling in 0.00004" increments accordingto the manual and from what I could tell from my DTC.

The photo with the TC 22 & TC 30 specs talks about running 8000 RPM without the transmission. Can the transmission be removed? I could really use the additional RPM vs torque and it would give me the clearance I sorely need in the Z axis.

Yes you can remove the transmission, this may then give you full Z axes travel as well, so don't change to many parameters until you decide what you are going to do, we may be able to do a deal if you take it off, as you need pulleys Etc to do this, which we have, you would have to drain the oil from the Transmission, before you remove it, the motor may need to be changed as the Gear on the motor shaft is a special mount, but we have everything that you would need to do this, be careful with the wiring as this has to be reused, and connected different, just any connections from the Gearbox sensors Etc, motor wiring will stay the same

[hax0red]

Yes you can remove the transmission, this may then give you full Z axes travel as well, so don't change to many parameters until you decide what you are going to do, we may be able to do a deal if you take it off, as you need pulleys Etc to do this, which we have, you would have to drain the oil from the Transmission, before you remove it, the motor may need to be changed as the Gear on the motor shaft is a special mount, but we have everything that you would need to do this, be careful with the wiring as this has to be reused, and connected different, just any connections from the Gearbox sensors Etc, motor wiring will stay the same

Thanks mactec. Not sure I can afford to do the swap just yet but I will definitely be interested once I have the machine up and running, but for right now I really want to just get it cutting some test parts and confirm everything works as I am afraid of some unforseen issues arising that will end up costing me. I have yet to actually change a tool or test the spindle out. Hopefully I will be running a test part this weekend assuming I can figure this tool changer & rest of the interface out.

I am attaching a photo of my spindle motors specs sticker. Not sure if we can tell from just that alone or wont know until I start tearing into it.

[forhire]

The photo with the TC 22 & TC 30 specs talks about running 8000 RPM without the transmission. Can the transmission be removed? I could really use the additional RPM vs torque and it would give me the clearance I sorely need in the Z axis.

Hmm... I wouldn't remove the gearbox. Sometimes it's nice having a good low range. I haven't run a torq-cut without a gearbox, so I can't speak from experience as to how they run without, but I have run a few mills that have had the back gear removed. Real pain not having the low range. When I bought my machine I didn't think it mattered but over time it has been worth it's weight in gold. My machine does 50 rpm to 7500.

What about a speeder? I have one that does 12k for my Lagun (R8 spindle). Sometimes I wish I had one for CAT40. They can be had now and again on Ebay.

Do the non-gearbox machines actually have more Z axis travel? The spec sheet doesn't appear to imply that is the case. Is the the issue is your ceiling height... in which case you should put your machine between the rafters to let the head poke into the attic. You might have to cut a hole. Sheet rock is easy to repair when you move.

[mactec54]

Hmm... I wouldn't remove the gearbox. Sometimes it's nice having a good low range. I haven't run a torq-cut without a gearbox, so I can't speak from experience as to how they run without, but I have run a few mills that have had the back gear removed. Real pain not having the low range. When I bought my machine I didn't think it mattered but over time it has been worth it's weight in gold. My machine does 50 rpm to 7500.

What about a speeder? I have one that does 12k for my Lagun (R8 spindle). Sometimes I wish I had one for CAT40. They can be had now and again on Ebay.

Do the non-gearbox machines actually have more Z axis travel? The spec sheet doesn't appear to imply that is the case. Is the the issue is your ceiling height... in which case you should put your machine between the rafters to let the head poke into the attic. You might have to cut a hole. Sheet rock is easy to repair when you move.

No they have the same Z axes travel, but with the Gear box, and his low ceiling in his shop he has had to lower his Z axes travel, removing the gearbox will give him his, most likely Full Z axes travel, your Lagun does not compare to these machines, unless he was doing heavy ridged tapping like 3/4 or more the Gear Box serves no purpose

[hax0red]

No they have the same Z axes travel, but with the Gear box, and his low ceiling in his shop he has had to lower his Z axes travel, removing the gearbox will give him his, most likely Full Z axes travel, your Lagun does not compare to these machines, unless he was doing heavy ridged tapping like 3/4 or more the Gear Box serves no purpose

I figured it might help for heavy cuts too and or reducing torque the motor. I cant imagine ever needing to tap 3/4" holes.

While cleaning the keyboard out today I found that the last owner had written down some specs on the travels and listed an RPM of 7500. How do I know the max RPM of this specific TC?

Including a picture of the keyboard disassembled. Spent almost 4 hours cleaning with dawn and a tooth brush so hopefully all the keys actually pop back up now

[hax0red]

Hmm... I wouldn't remove the gearbox. Sometimes it's nice having a good low range. I haven't run a torq-cut without a gearbox, so I can't speak from experience as to how they run without, but I have run a few mills that have had the back gear removed. Real pain not having the low range. When I bought my machine I didn't think it mattered but over time it has been worth it's weight in gold. My machine does 50 rpm to 7500.

What about a speeder? I have one that does 12k for my Lagun (R8 spindle). Sometimes I wish I had one for CAT40. They can be had now and again on Ebay.

Do the non-gearbox machines actually have more Z axis travel? The spec sheet doesn't appear to imply that is the case. Is the the issue is your ceiling height... in which case you should put your machine between the rafters to let the head poke into the attic. You might have to cut a hole. Sheet rock is easy to repair when you move.

If by speeder you mean a second bolt-on high speed spindle that could be an option although I would like to avoid that if possible. Having just come from a machine with subpar spindle and rigidity issues I am definitely not looking to complicate things unless I have to.

Motor clearance is definitely the issue but its tolerable without cutting up a home that isnt mine (owner already hates me for the machine it seems lol). As it is now I get within 1" of my ceiling which probably isnt good for the airflow on the spindle fan but I am going to build a garage over the next few months so the issue will be resolved soon enough.