X2 on the way!
I have been a member here for a long time and read most of the threads. I finally have an X2 coming to me from HF. (20% off coupons rock!). I will be converting it to CNC slowly as time and money allow. It will be a piece by piece method of getting the stuff I need, probably one or two pieces a paycheck so that the wife doesn't get too mad at me!
Here is my plan so far:
Hoss' Stock kit combo with fasteners, Z axis, stopblocks, and DVD for $ 175 plus shipping.
Keling inc KL23H2100-35-4B 381 oz/in 3.5A 2.55V steppers $49x3=147 plus shipping.
That's about all I know for sure. I'm up in the air on drives and breakout boards and such. I have two giant electronic places where I can purchase stuff, one being Mendelson's surplus and the other Parts Express, so I've thought about building some drivers.
On the other hand, the cost is probably going to either be close to or more than buying premade drives from other sources. The G540 looks like a nice piece, but $299 is a hard sell at one time.
So then I have a question on ball screws. I see that Roton are popular, however McMaster-Carr has ballscrews for about a buck cheaper for a 2 ft section of 5/8".
Are there any problems with using McMaster's screws? They don't list who the manufacturer is, so that's a bit worrysome.
Also, after annealing the ballscrews, will I be able to turn the ends on my 7x10 HF lathe? I think I would, but I wanted to double check
Anyways...any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Hi BigChevMan. You are off to a good start.
The motors you have picked are perfect for the G540. However, don't buy the motors until you have settled on a driver/PSU. The G540 is a LOT cheaper than buying slow/unreliable stuff first and then having to replace it.
Ball screws are difficult to turn on a 7 x 10. You could easily screw up. Since you are using Hoss's plans, maybe you should consider buying the screws pre-cut from him.
Some of this basic info may be helpful to you:
By the time you need it, I should have this X2 teardown and cleanup guide finished:
Turn your balls not your screw.
I turned my ball screws on my little 7x10 toy mill and it was a PITA!!! (sourced from McMaster)
But here is what I needed to do (NO FLAMING PLEASE CAUSE THIS WORKED)....
Get some 1" round aluminum
Turn a precise collet with a ID +.05" of the OD of the screw
Make 3 slits in the collet at 120 degrees of each other
Turn a head stock support.
This will need to fit snuggle around the screw and the head stock.
Insert screw through collet and head stock support clamp in 3 jaw chuck.
Map out cuts with a sharpie
Now here is the fun part (NO FLAMING)
Use an angle grinder to remove the hardened steel surface. This is done to about .5" thickness.
Now it's just an easy turn from here. I used HSS bits for the bulk of the cutting including the threading. I found that HSS works best for threading. But I used a carbide bit for cutting the shoulder that will ride against the thrust bearing. Oh and on that shoulder...IT MUST BE PERFECTLY SQUARE.
One other note always check runout.
So with all that said.....I would have been better off just buying my screws from Hoss.
When did I start my conversion....2002 (was shelved after a failed lead screw conversion)
Is my mill done....NOPE working on the controller box right now.
When will it be done...either January 2010 or February 2015.