Collet Questions

[Nateg281]

I'm new to milling and to the X2 in general. My version has an R8 spindle. I am in the process of setting up my mill. I have a lot of questions about collets, however. Here goes...

1. Are the collets that fit directly into the spindle just as good as those that require a collet chuck? The type I am asking about are these:

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...2872&category=

2. How would the above compare to a ER-32 Collet Chuck set up with a collet set? The ones I am asking about are these:

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...3615&category=

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...2559&category=

Any advice you can impart would be awesome. I did multiple searches in this forum before posting and could not find any information directly related to my questions. If I did miss a post that would answer this, please forgive me. Thanks in advance.

[hoss2006]

The er-32 collets can have greater gripping strength and more flexibility for odd sizes.
Hoss

[Crevice Reamer]

One of the main advantages of using standard collets is the added Z height they give you. If you are not contemplating using very long drills, you might want to go a different direction and use the Tormach quick change holders. Instead of buying a full set of collets for each size end mill--you buy a few end mill holders and some same-size-shank endmills.

I would recommend starting with the basic collet:

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2454&category=

A JT33 drill chuck adapter:

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2436&category=

And at LEAST a 3/8 endmill holder:

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2434&category=

Along with a set of same shank endmills:

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...1242&category=

Later you can add further endmill holders (like 1/4 and 1/2) as you need them.

If you don't already have it, the belt drive conversion is a MUST for serious work:

http://littlemachineshop.com/product...2560&category=

CR.

[kawazuki]

Its also easier to leave the collet holder in place and just change a collet than beating on the drawbar everytime you want to change an end piece!

[Nateg281]

Its also easier to leave the collet holder in place and just change a collet than beating on the drawbar everytime you want to change an end piece!

Based on your response I take it you are refering to the Tormach Tooling System? I like the idea of the TTS and had never really given it much thought. I'll have to consider that. What are the pros and cons of the TTS? It is possible to get a full range of end mills with the same shank size? How hard is it to loosen and retighten the drawbar? I'd play with my machine, but it's packed for the move to my new house. Thanks for the advice and keep it coming please...

[hoss2006]

I believe he was talking about the ER-32 collets.
The TTS is very useful especially if tool height repeatability and fast tool changes
are desired.
They are commonly used with small ATC's.
A power drawbar can give you the rapid toolchanging between different TTS holders.
You can do it by hand using the belleville washers and a long lever arm as i've seen.
If you're just planning on using 3/8 shank endmills, you can get an R8 endmill holder
that will let you change tools with the setscrew.
It will save a tad more Z height than the TTS or ER-32.
Hoss

[Nateg281]

A power drawbar can give you the rapid toolchanging between different TTS holders.
You can do it by hand using the belleville washers and a long lever arm as i've seen.

Hoss

I'll have to check into the power drawbar. I've been looking around online for plans. I like yours, but I'm not sure that my machining skills will be up to par. I am a total Newb to this......what do you think? How hard is it to machine your power drawbar? Not to change the thread topic here...just wondering...

[hoss2006]

It's not that tough, just get a little machining under your belt before you tackle it,
the more parts you make, the simpler the tougher jobs start to look.
The impact wrench type of power drawbar is well suited for changing R8 tooling.
The Insight is a common design, Starleper1 makes a kit too.
Hoss

[philbur]

If you are a complete noob then my advice would be keep it simple and cheap until you've got some mileage. So buy several R8 collets that match the common cutter sizes you are going to use and just get started. You can't evaluate the relative pro and cons of all the alternatives because you can't yet determine their relative value to you. Get some experience and then you can. Even if or when you move on from the R8 collets they will still be useful on occasions when you need all the Z space available.

Phil

[LongRat]

Something I noticed with the X2 in particular is the added rigidity you get with direct spindle collets. Because the join between the column and base is the rigidity 'bottleneck' on a stock X2, the higher up the column the head is, the lower the rigidity. This is particularly noticeable on the X2. Using direct collets, the head is lower in the Z travel than it would be if you were using any type of collet chuck. So for me, I saw improved cutting performance with direct collets. This was not enough to offset the shank gripping range and quickness of change that is offered by the ER-collet system though, so I always run an ER-25 on my X2.
It is something to bear in mind if you are running your X2 in steel a lot.

[Nateg281]

Thanks for the info guys. I won't be doing much work with steel at all, but will primarily be working with softer metals. I've pretty much decided to go with a Tormach system for now I think. I know it's expensive, but I have the funds to start working on my collection of tooling......thanks for all the info guys.....