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#1
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I'm pretty sure that the head on my x2 mill is not square with the table. What is the best way to check this and how to correct it? I've got the table square with the column, I'm talking about the head with the table. Thanks for the help. |
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#2
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| You need an indicator. You will want fabricate or buy a special "arm" that will fit into a collet. You "sweep" the table with the indicator side to side and front to back and have the indicator read the same. On my table with about 5 inches each way in the x-axis I am spot on with my level. The front to back is a real pain to do depending on your set-up. Google = friend, just put in tramming mill and you will see numerous posts. -Jason |
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#3
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| Yea, Google = friend but just doesn't all ways give expert advise. You can spend days looking through junk to get one little gem of info. I just thought I would ask someone who has done this. More info: I have a DI, DTI, and "special arm", way past that info. With my "special arm" to the left side of table I can zero indicator, then swing to the right side of the table to same spot and read zero. Same thing with y axis. So I have trammed the x & y axis (column is square to the table). Trouble is when I swing the arc I get variation in readings, so I think the spindle is not parallel to the column in either direction. I think you could shim the head in a way to correct this, but I would like details from someone who has done this. I have found tons of threads about tilting the column to tram the x and shimming the column front to back to tram the y, but only 1 thread relating to tramming the z axis: Seig X2 - Tram the deck (Y axis), how do you adjust? See post #5 by Himykabibble Thanks speedscustom for the response. |
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#4
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| This whole operation is a PITA, because you have to keep removing and re-installing the head for each adjustment, and the adjustment WILL change when you tighten the four bolts. Tighten them in an X pattern, a little bit at a time, to minimize the movement. If you snug them up, you can make the XZ adjustment by just whacking the head, without removing it. Then, when it seems right, remove the head and *carefully* tighten the bolts, then re-check everything. If you have to shim, you'll have to remove the head each time. Check the YZ alignment first (indicator on the front or rear side of the rod), *then* do the XZ alignment. Expect to spend quite a bit of time on this.... Regards, Ray L. |
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#5
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| What about using the tools and techniques described starting on page 14 of the document linked below? http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/Mi...UsersGuide.pdf |
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#6
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| You can read how ksouers checked and later (page 2) corrected his spindle alignment in this thread on the HMEM forum. Witness marks were a good idea. Earl Hackett also made a tutorial discussing his method for spindle/column alignment similar to what I suggested in the linked thread except he laid the column on the table. rudydubya expanded on that and made a nice tutorial with good pics, check it out. Good Luck, Hoss
__________________ http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com |
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#7
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| Thanks Ray & Hoss, just what I was looking for. Kanton, the spindle alignment isn't mentioned in the manual, but I think is necessary if you want to get the most out of an X2 mill. Great links Hoss, I think me using the wrong terminology was keeping me from finding them. |
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#8
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| Your welcome, rudydubya did a nice write up on the subject. Hoss
__________________ http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com |
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